subdtrate

whomever

Yamadori
Messages
50
Reaction score
22
Location
Austin, Texas
USDA Zone
8b
Hi All I am trying to understand the ratios for substrate,
In general it is 60 ,20
60 is course media ie akadama
20 is grow media is: pine bark
20 is course media is; lava rock

So that means 80 would be the same type of media, so why two different media of the same type?

Am I understanding this correctly?
 

Solange

Shohin
Messages
355
Reaction score
374
Location
North Central PA - 6A
USDA Zone
6A
Akadama is volcanic clay, but is not the same as lava rock (which is probably red or black scoria). Pumice is another type of volcanic material different than either. Akadama and lava rock are visually and functionally different. Hope that helps! let me find markyscotts soil resource for you, and I'll post a link :)
 

whomever

Yamadori
Messages
50
Reaction score
22
Location
Austin, Texas
USDA Zone
8b
Akadama is volcanic clay, but is not the same as lava rock (which is probably red or black scoria). Pumice is another type of volcanic material different than either. Akadama and lava rock are visually and functionally different. Hope that helps! let me find markyscotts soil resource for you, and I'll post a link :)
Thank you, I Probably should had expanded more
what i was thinking of is expanded shale at 75 and the remainder coconut husk, which i think satisfy the requirements of drain easy ,not pack down and able to retain some moisture .
I am just wondering if there is a reason why most or all recipes for substrate is 3 items inshad of 2
 

Solange

Shohin
Messages
355
Reaction score
374
Location
North Central PA - 6A
USDA Zone
6A
Thank you, I Probably should had expanded more
what i was thinking of is expanded shale at 75 and the remainder coconut husk, which i think satisfy the requirements of drain easy ,not pack down and able to retain some moisture .
I am just wondering if there is a reason why most or all recipes for substrate is 3 items inshad of 2
Oh I see were I got mixed up, the course vs grow media. Not sure where that terminology is coming from but all those elements support growth. An organic element is not necessarily needed. All of this is soil stuff hotly debated. A good place to start is to check out those links! :D
 

whomever

Yamadori
Messages
50
Reaction score
22
Location
Austin, Texas
USDA Zone
8b
is there a good mix to run out and buy when starting? I have https://goo.gl/KWYthM
and just want to make sure I am not setting myself up to fail with over priced potting soil.
 

whomever

Yamadori
Messages
50
Reaction score
22
Location
Austin, Texas
USDA Zone
8b
is there a good mix to run out and buy when starting? I have https://goo.gl/KWYthM
and just want to make sure I am not setting myself up to fail with over priced potting soil.
 

aml1014

Masterpiece
Messages
3,667
Reaction score
5,807
Location
Albuquerque new mexico
USDA Zone
7b
is there a good mix to run out and buy when starting? I have https://goo.gl/KWYthM
and just want to make sure I am not setting myself up to fail with over priced potting soil.
I like the bonsai jack premixed inorganic soil, but it's a little pricey when you have more trees then you care to count like me:p

Aaron
 

whomever

Yamadori
Messages
50
Reaction score
22
Location
Austin, Texas
USDA Zone
8b
Oh I see were I got mixed up, the course vs grow media. Not sure where that terminology is coming from but all those elements support growth. An organic element is not necessarily needed. All of this is soil stuff hotly debated. A good place to start is to check out those links! :D
in the process of checking it out , the terminology is cumming from a few different sites that started with bonsaiboy and i believed they used inorganic and organic instead of course and grow media
 

aml1014

Masterpiece
Messages
3,667
Reaction score
5,807
Location
Albuquerque new mexico
USDA Zone
7b
is the stuff I got worth using or should i return it and imediatly get bonsaijack? oddly enoug i was looking at that link a few hours ago too.
Akadama is iffy in my climate but works very well for many people. I uses scoring and pumice in ALL of my soil. I've never used pine bark but have used fir bark with great success. What you have will do plenty good for you. If I ever bought a premixed soil though itd be bonsaijack.

Aaron
 

Paradox

Imperial Masterpiece
Messages
9,338
Reaction score
11,405
Location
Long Island, NY
USDA Zone
7a
Soil composition also depends on what you are putting into it.

Pines and junipers generally get little to no organic material (pine bark, spagnum moss) in their soil. For my pines and junipers in training I use lava, pumice and gravel all sifted to the same size. When the trees go into more bonsai shaped training pots or bonsai pots proper, I use lava, pumice, akadama and gravel in equal parts. Most people dont use any gravel at all.

For trees that like to be more moist, I might put in some pine bark for a mix of 1 part pine bark, 1 part gravel, 1 part lava and 1 part pumice. You dont want your soil to retain alot of water. Too wet = rotted roots. The soil needs to drain freely and retain moisture but not a lot of water.
 

Solange

Shohin
Messages
355
Reaction score
374
Location
North Central PA - 6A
USDA Zone
6A
the link to the tinyroots soil is weird. it says akadama in the main title but in the description says "100% organic double-sifted compost mulch, calcined clay, vermiculite, and Frit". That is shady to me. Never used this stuff so I can't say but it looks mostly like potting soil from the picture. Like @aml1014 I use lava, pumice, and sometimes fir bark, and mix and sift according to my needs or wants. Don't be discouraged you will figure it out.
 

bonsaidave

Shohin
Messages
393
Reaction score
658
Location
DFW, Texas
USDA Zone
8a
60 is course media ie akadama

If nothing else it will look nice in the pot :D

My first tree started in 100% lava and it did fine. My current soil mix, 2 years later, is more complex as I have learned more. Reading reading reading. It never ends!
 

justBonsai

Omono
Messages
1,442
Reaction score
2,595
Location
Arcadia, CA
I don't really mix my soil in precise ratios any more. I just toss together what I have on hand. Usually some recycled re-sifed old soil plus fresh scoria, pumice, bark or napa. I recently found some zeolite too which has high CEC and can work in place or with lava. In a climate like mine where the growing season is hot and dry I think using slightly smaller particles and more organic is better. If I were to use quarter inch sized particles and 1/3 or less organic I'd have to water like crazy in the summer. My sieve is a 3mm sieve or about 1/8th inch.

For trees in the developing stage I think as long as you have a well aerated mix with proper watering your tree will do fine. Maybe in refinement especially when trying to compact the root system into a tiny pot soil composition and size is more important. I'm lucky to have local pre-sifted scoria sources at cheap prices and other components like pumice and bark can be found easily in my area. I use drystall for my pumice, some think its too small but I and many others use it with good results.

You can make a decent mix out of perlite, bark, and diatomaceous earth all of which can be found and had for cheap. Just make sure you sift out the fines. Lava and pumice are good because they will retain a lot of air and won't be compacted or crushed like some organic components. I think perlite can act as a cheap substitute for pumice or lava but its very light and can be washed away during watering. Regardless of what mix you use make sure you water appropriately and pot your trees correctly. Even with a well draining mix if you over-pot your tree the roots will stay too wet.
 
Top Bottom