Watch out..Juniper fungus in the northeast

[october]

Just wanted to give a heads up to enthusiasts that keep junipers in New England... It seems that fungus has started running rampant on junipers. It has moved in to my collection with a vengeance and others in these areas as well.

If you are not sure of the signs. The best way I can describe it is if you look at the fresh, new growth on the tree...right before the tip, it is brown and very dry. Eventually it moves up the small stems towards the tips and kills as it goes. You may notice that one day the tips on your new growth is green, but the section right before it is brown. Then, in a few days, the whole end is dead. Left untreated, it seems to move very fast, killing sections of trees in under 3 weeks.

I have been using Bonide copper fungicide concentrate and also daconil. The daconil is pre made by the factory. At this point I cannot really say what is working. I might switch over completely to the bonide copper one. I am not sure if the daconil, in the pre mixed form is causing the tree more stress. Some of the foliage sprayed with daconil, looks a little pale. However, this could absolutely be from the fungus and have nothing to do with the daconil. I will say that when I use the copper fungicide, I put a bag over the soil to prevent it from going into the soil.

Has anyone else been dealing with this? If so, what has been you methods of dealing with it.

All I can say is that it must be getting bad because I do not recall having any fungal probelms in the last 9 years with the exception of the last year or so.

Rob

 

[Bill S]

Rob, I think the people in the New Haven club had this issue last year, I think someone said it was a tip blight. On eof our members uses both the fungicides you mentioned and hasn't had the issues.

Can't say as I remember which conversation it was but part of helping on this is to avoid watering the foliage. Typically not an issue with junis, but sometimes you have to go with what helps. I'll see if I can get a better description as to what went on and how treated. I do know of one of the NH members lost all of his junis.

Have to remember we have been upgraded to zone 6 now so the warmer temps and lack of freezing may be contributing to this.

 

[october]

I do know of one of the NH members lost all of his junis.

That is tragic...

I am freaking out myself. I have a small collection consisting of about 90% junipers. Trees I have been trainign for the last 6-7 years. If I lose just a few trees, that is almost 1/4 of my collection. Not only that.. but if the trees live, but 1/2 - 2/3 of it is destroyed, all the work, time, money, hopes for future designs coming to fruitition are gone.

I cannot stress enough the importance of dealing with this immediately. I mean if you see it, you spray immediately.. Not later that day or tomorrow morning, but immediately.

Rob

 

[garywood]

Guys, Phomopsis, tip blight usually starts at the tips. It could be that it wasn't spotted until the branch was severely infected, hence the base being brown. I would check for Twig Girdler an insect that girdles the base of twigs. Check a dead or dieing branch by removing and looking for missing cambium tissue at the base. Kind of hard to diagnose without a photo but this another choice of culprits
Wood

 

[Bill S]

Phomopsis, was the culprit in my post, now that I see Gary spell it out.

I know Rob, it would be bad, especially after seeing your trees.

I am at least a 70%er myself.

I used up a couple of cans of Orthonix last year, not sure if that handles the blight, or if I was just lucky enough not to get any.

I have had the pleasure of a juni with cedar apple rust, on top of the problem it is just yuck.
Good luck Rob, keep us posted please.

 

[october]

Hello Gary, thanks for the alternative info...Always good to be aware of all possibilities..Fortunately, I have not lost branches, just small tufts of foliage here and there are damaged, but it seems not dead. It is has been almost absolutely verified that it is a fungus. It was verified by the owner of the nursery, their main teacher and myself.

I must say it seems that lately, bonsai seems to be demanding a more than usual amount of work and time. There are the normal fun tasks of styling, pruning, wiring watering etc..but the pest infestations, particularly scale, having to bring trees in and out because one day it is 70 degrees and the next day it is 30. Add to that the constant need to spray fungicides now..It's like you need more than 24 hours a day to handle it.

Rob

 

[garywood]

Rob, good to know it's been verified so you can proceed to get it under control.
Wood

 

[rockm]

"I must say it seems that lately, bonsai seems to be demanding a more than usual amount of work and time. There are the normal fun tasks of styling, pruning, wiring watering etc..but the pest infestations, particularly scale, having to bring trees in and out because one day it is 70 degrees and the next day it is 30. Add to that the constant need to spray fungicides now..It's like you need more than 24 hours a day to handle it."

Spring is always a busy time for bonsai. The more trees you have, the more work it is. I dread every fall when I have to put the trees away because of all the heavy lifting, same thing in the spring. It passes, at least it has for the last 20 falls and springs This weird weather -- 92 degree days in March, snow in mid-April, and frost in late April wore me out this year. The last frost warning we had -- last Monday I think, I just let things ride. The frost was shallow and quick and didn't get the trees on the benches.

Fungal problems are the worst. Lost some maples to Verticillium a few years ago. There is no treatment for it and I just watched a couple of extremely nice maples just waste away.

 

[october]

yup...forcast calls for temps in the 30's this weekend. All I would like to see is maybe a week of temps in the 70's and sunny.. At least that might help the situation and allow for the trees to gain some strength and growth...

 

[edprocoat]

October,
This sounds like what I have on two of my four junipers! I thought it was from the freeze we had that damaged my tropicals, a night it was supposed to only get down to the "lower 30's" and ended up going down to 28 for 10 hours until 9:00 am the next morning. I assumed the frost had damaged the branch tips as they started turning brown at the tips and spread towards the bottom slowly, I removed the dead tips and have seen some others a few days later. This Bonide copper fungicide, is that the brand name, Bonide, or is that what one would ask for at a nursery or garden center, I am in Ohio is why I ask. I have these same symptoms on both my Phoenix graft and my twin trunk juniper, although the twin trunk juniper tips are turning more whitish while the juniper called October is turning brown on the tips. I was thinking maybe this was from growing well in the Fl. sunshine and then getting frostbite, but now it seems like what you are describing which has me worried.

ed

 

[fore]

I've had 3 tips turn brown on a newly dug up yew. I thought it was too much sunlight and moved it to partial shade last week. If I find another one, I'm going to treat it just in case. Thanks for the description Rob!

 

[october]

Hello Ed... If you post some pics, I can probably identify if it is a fungus or not. However, from what you descibed, both the browning and possibly the white tips could be a fungus. In my opinion, even if your junipers were out in hight 20's/ low 30/s for 10 hours, I don't think it would affect them. They usually take a while to show signs of stress.. However, a fungus does not take long at all. One day you have a couple of brown tips, then in a few days, more brown tips. You can actually see the difference in a few days.

I have been using daconil, pre made in the bottle..and also, Bonide copper fungicide. I am not sure, but I think the pre-made factory daconil is stressing the trees. It seems like it is making certain parts of the tree pale. However, it could be the fungus and not the daconil. I have completely switched to just using the Bonide copper fungicide from concentrate. You will need to read the label for mixing instructions. For mine, I use 1 tablespoone per gallon of water. I protect the soil though. I use a plastic garbage bag wrapped aroung the base of the tree and wrap a wire around it. This prevents any fungicide from getting into the soil. I remove the bag when the fungicide is dry. Also, for the next watering or couple of waterings, I use the bag again when I shower off the tree. This is just something I do.

Hello fore.. it could be just stress. The fungus creates a sort of brown/rust like color. Actually, stress will make the tree more inclined to be attacked by the fungus.

If your new foliage looks very healthy and green. Then the small stem leading to the tip of the foliage starts to turn brown and pale. It might be a fungus. Within a few days, you will notice it spreading right up to the tip of the foliage and killing that little tuft of foliage. I think probably a good way to spot it is on healthy, new, fresh foliage. New foliage that is very healthy, should not all of a sudden turn brown.

 

[fore]

I must have something. I was just out looking at the trees today and now, also a recently dug up tree, a larch. It was doing great, but now, at the tip of the strongest growing branch, is dead. Just looks kinda rotted though the rest of the tree is still great. Not rust colored. I'd spray with copper now but it's supposed to rain again, and most of this week. Not sure how effective it'd be given the weather. But something is going on with my trees!

Edit: Heck, I might as well spray as I don't want to loose the yew or the larch.

 

[fore]

Well I did my research on Phomopsis and it is indeed what I have on both my yew and Larch (sitting next to each other too). Found copper sulfate works, I'm using Southern Agrig. brand. I also have a bottle of Bonide (brand btw Ed) Infuse (propiconazole) which also covers it. I don't see that daconil covers it. So I just sprayed this am with copper and will repeat in 7 dys...thank god it looks like no rain today...and see how it's going. This fungus moves FAST indeed. One tip of the yew about a week ago, now it's multiple tips and a fair amt. of dead twigs at the initial site. Even the Larch has 1 new area of infestation from yesterday! I also sprayed my Shim which is showing no disease but was sitting next to the yew too. Man, I'll say it again, living in N. Cali I ever had a disease. Since moving to the midwest I've had just about everything it seems, plus a new one like this. At least it's green here half the year lol

I suggest everyone take a good close look at your Junipers and Larches and make sure you're good.

 

[october]

Yup,, It moves super fast... I have been trying to somewhat isolate the trees that have it. Trying not to let any water run off one tree and onto another. It is difficult though.

 

[fore]

I hear ya Rob! Of course it just rained just hrs after spraying. And it's supposed to rain everyday till next monday...any advice?
I can try Bonide Infuse which says it won't wash off but the plant has to dry thoroughly for this, which I can't be assured. If I leave this untreated for almost another week, plus the rain, I'm afraid this might decimate these trees as they try to get established.

Chris

 

[Bill S]

article says use benomyl for control of Phomopsis

Just googled the phomopsis and checked this site - http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/fidls/phomopsis/phomopsis.htm under the section labled Control it says "The only chemical currently registered for control of Phomopsis blight is benomyl. This chemical applied at 7- t 10-day intervals, combined with a vigorous schedule of roguing infected seedlings over the same interval, will give excellent control of Phomopsis blight".

Avoid using tools from tree to tree, unless cleaned properly, removal and burning of infected parts of the tree, keeping trees separated helps to not get it. Don't forget that water splashing down will launch the spores, avoid top watering over the foliage, daily tree checks help spot things early

 

[Bill S]

Commercial names for products containing benomyl are Agrodit, Benex, Benlate, Benosan, Fundazol, Fungidice 1991, and Tersan. Benomyl is compatible with many other pesticides - from the same above web site.

 

[october]

Bill gives some excellent advice... As far as all the rain... The simplest thing would be to put them under benches or tables. You could always pick up some of those fold away tables at Lowes or Home Depot. The ones people use for yard sales. I actually have a whole bunch of these and use these for most of my bonsai. I have to move my trees around a lot. So these tables are perfect for what I need to do. Also, they make great protectors from rain and wind. Just put the trees underneath the tables and thats instant protection. The tables are only about $25-30 each if I remember correctly.

 

[fore]

Just googled the phomopsis and checked this site - http://www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/fidls/phomopsis/phomopsis.htm under the section labled Control it says "The only chemical currently registered for control of Phomopsis blight is benomyl. This chemical applied at 7- t 10-day intervals, combined with a vigorous schedule of roguing infected seedlings over the same interval, will give excellent control of Phomopsis blight".

Avoid using tools from tree to tree, unless cleaned properly, removal and burning of infected parts of the tree, keeping trees separated helps to not get it. Don't forget that water splashing down will launch the spores, avoid top watering over the foliage, daily tree checks help spot things early

I read that one too Bill. But other websites said copper works, and even the label for the copper and this Infuse both say they cover "blight"...and I'm assuming that means phomopsis blight.

Rob, that's a very good idea. And simple...why didn't I think of that?? lol Thanks!

Edit: It stayed dry miraculously today and dried them out. Got to treat it with Infuse. Fingers crossed! What's bad though, is all the fungicides say only control and not kill. So I'm assuming I'm going to have to treat the rest of the year. Also, the stress of digging them up and potting them certainly seems to be the factor here as I just walked around the neighborhood and I didn't see one yew with it. Interesting to note.