cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Thanks for the advice. Any recommendations on how to remove such a moss. Maybe vinegar water or something?
my yatsubusa elm update
- Thread starter cmeg1
- Start date
Thanks for the advice. Any recommendations on how to remove such a moss. Maybe vinegar water or something?
davetree
Omono
Yes vinegar and water. Let it dry out before applying. Some people use straight vinegar, others cut it to as low as 20% vinegar solution.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Update on this tree.
It is pretty easy to tell I was a beginner three years ago when I started this thread,and well.....still learning.
I am finally getting away from potting soil.
I believe in the spring of 14 this tree went into the ground for beginner reasons.
I mean it got buried in plane old yard dirt and just left there.....until today.
I chopped it hard today and re-potted into good soil and a wooden box.Fingers crossed.
I want a smaller more compact tree.If it buds good I will be wiring branches all throughout the season to get it where I want it
Neat,digging up this old thread too!
It is pretty easy to tell I was a beginner three years ago when I started this thread,and well.....still learning.
I am finally getting away from potting soil.
I believe in the spring of 14 this tree went into the ground for beginner reasons.
I mean it got buried in plane old yard dirt and just left there.....until today.
I chopped it hard today and re-potted into good soil and a wooden box.Fingers crossed.
I want a smaller more compact tree.If it buds good I will be wiring branches all throughout the season to get it where I want it
Neat,digging up this old thread too!
Attachments
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
sorce
Nonsense Rascal
Dope!
Sorce
Sorce
AaronThomas
Omono
Crap.... now I want a Cork Bark.
Looks great, very nice on the cut backs, you'll have much better trees in the long run.
The one thing I would suggest is to keep an eye out for where you have multiple buds extending from a particular point. I've found that the cork bark elms tend to create bulges very fast in those areas, even when the branches are tiny. You have to be on top of them, especially in shohin, or you'll have to cut the branches back and start over.
The one thing I would suggest is to keep an eye out for where you have multiple buds extending from a particular point. I've found that the cork bark elms tend to create bulges very fast in those areas, even when the branches are tiny. You have to be on top of them, especially in shohin, or you'll have to cut the branches back and start over.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Thanks,Grim.I marauded that thing.You should of seen me cutting the bottom off with a drywall saw.You sure do! Should be a neat project for you
Grimmy
Hi,Aaron .they are pretty cool.I actually would not mind having a plain cork bark elm.Crap.... now I want a Cork Bark.
This yatsubusa variety shoots buds everywhere.
Thanks,mcpesq.As soon as I see buds and get an idea where they will be I am going to do something I never did before,make a sketch.If I don't ,I will get overwhelmed with where to proceed.I do know it will involve wiring and re-wiring throughout the season.That is new to me also.
Yatsubusa has short internodes,so I am going to load on the fertilizer.
AaronThomas
Omono
Cmeg1... are they pretty much same as caring for a Ulmus parvifolia?
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
If you are asking about cork bark,I never had one.
If you meant this yatsubusa variety,totally different than plain Chinese elm.Much close internodes on yatsubusa and they bud everywhere.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Been using this 'Great White' product from Plant Success and I believe it is doing what it sais' it is supposed to do.
I have only innoculated twice in one month ,as you do it every 2-3 weeks,but I can see something growing around this root in the center of the picture below, and also is penetrating the deeper layers of the soil.I can see it deeper when I water,but I don't want to go digging around.
I always lay white T-shirts on the soil while I am working.I believe that is why it is surviving on the surface root too.
Excited to use this with the more open soil ,as it can penetrate down to the roots when I apply it.
It is just interesting to me
And yes,this tree has buds all over it and I will update when they are more visible extending.
I have only innoculated twice in one month ,as you do it every 2-3 weeks,but I can see something growing around this root in the center of the picture below, and also is penetrating the deeper layers of the soil.I can see it deeper when I water,but I don't want to go digging around.
I always lay white T-shirts on the soil while I am working.I believe that is why it is surviving on the surface root too.
Excited to use this with the more open soil ,as it can penetrate down to the roots when I apply it.
It is just interesting to me
And yes,this tree has buds all over it and I will update when they are more visible extending.
Attachments
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Budding all over.
Of course ,it is a yatsubusa.
That is what's cool about chopping a yatsubusa elm.
Actually getting a little apprehensive about choosing and growing branches on this.
The creation of an apex has got me pondering a bit.
The easy answer is to do it right
Do not proceed too fast.
Make the primary branches have some girth and shape them early throughout the season and come up with something
Thanks for looking.
Of course ,it is a yatsubusa.
That is what's cool about chopping a yatsubusa elm.
Actually getting a little apprehensive about choosing and growing branches on this.
The creation of an apex has got me pondering a bit.
The easy answer is to do it right
Do not proceed too fast.
Make the primary branches have some girth and shape them early throughout the season and come up with something
Thanks for looking.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
First trim
I should of taken a before picture.It was essentially a ball of green and it was time to remove all unnecessary growth.
Maybe a semi-cascade type tree.An apex type growth on the left trunk and the cascade without an apex on the right trunk.
This could all change though.
This should grow like crazy now.I am really going to fert the thing.
By the way,stay away from the great white product and akadama.It clogged the soil with unnecessary white fluff that retained water too long.I had to do two re-pots in full leaf to get rid of it on some other trees.Luckily it just went away in this wood box and soil drains quick again.
I should of taken a before picture.It was essentially a ball of green and it was time to remove all unnecessary growth.
Maybe a semi-cascade type tree.An apex type growth on the left trunk and the cascade without an apex on the right trunk.
This could all change though.
This should grow like crazy now.I am really going to fert the thing.
By the way,stay away from the great white product and akadama.It clogged the soil with unnecessary white fluff that retained water too long.I had to do two re-pots in full leaf to get rid of it on some other trees.Luckily it just went away in this wood box and soil drains quick again.
Attachments
fredman
Masterpiece
Yeah I'm very apprehensive about adding something like that. Better to let nature take its course. Good horticultural practices will attract only the needed organisms. The rest usually is counter productive anyway.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Yes.The tree above was taking more than 10 seconds for the water to drain off the top of the soil.I was worried,but decided not to repot because it is not like the akadama was broken down or anything.
Now all of a sudden it drains very fast,really happy with it again.
My other big yatsubusa had a higher percentage of akadama ,was loaded with white fluff,and not much of a lip for proper watering at top of pot,so I re-potted in full leaf to a 50/50 mix of akadama and pumice.
The tree did not set back at all.There is so much green on it there is no trunk visible.
Will post photos of it tonight in its thread,'a yatsubusa elm trunk'.
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Growin' like a champ.
Both my yatsubusa are growing good this past week.The heat has really kicked them into gear.They get fertilized with every watering.
This should really start to fill in because all the nodal shoots are sprouting too.
Then it will get cut back to a couple nodes when they are about 3/8" or so
Or I may go much thicker.Might take the whole season.We will have to see.
The shoots are currently shaped in an up then down curve close to the trunk.
Both my yatsubusa are growing good this past week.The heat has really kicked them into gear.They get fertilized with every watering.
This should really start to fill in because all the nodal shoots are sprouting too.
Then it will get cut back to a couple nodes when they are about 3/8" or so
Or I may go much thicker.Might take the whole season.We will have to see.
The shoots are currently shaped in an up then down curve close to the trunk.
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GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Understatement
Doing great and looks very healthy. South East PA has had an unusual Spring and a lot of plants are suffering with fungal issues. Happy to see yours doing good!Grimmy
cmeg1
Imperial Masterpiece
Thanks,Grimmy.Understatement
Grimmy
We had that ten or so day stretch of rain and then some more.
I use Ortho Garden Disease Control weekly during clouds and bi-weekly when sunny.It is topical spray fungicide.
leaves on my zelkovas were starting to suffer,but the Ortho completely reversed it.
Aside from a bit of harmless leaf gull,the elms were fine.
Hartinez
Masterpiece
Hey CMeg. Still have this one?
