Air layer in late summer

[Dav4]

So, I've got this grafted semi-dwarf Acer palmatum that I planted next to my deck 7 years ago when I bought the house. It's proven to be too vigorous and fast growing for the space, so I'm planning on air layering it next spring.

 

[Dav4]

I've had great success performing layers in spring, either just before the spring push or after the leaves have hardened. I've never layered something this late in the year, but I've always thought about trying, since trees tend to grow a lot of roots in the summer and fall....so I made one today, using my knob cutters and the evil rooting medium of moist sphagnum moss. It is 90F today and humid as hell...my first frost date is typically in early November but can come as early as mid to late October. Let's see what happens.

 

[AlainK]

Well, it's very late in the season: I don't know what the local weather is in North Georgia, but From Wikipedia:

"The climate of Georgia is typical of a humid subtropical climate with most of the state having mild winters and hot summers."

So it must be OK, but what did you use? Sphagnum moss only?

Can't resist - anything brings a tune to my mind:

 

[justBonsai]

I started some layers on an amur maple 2-3 weeks ago. Roots have already begun forming. I layered a seiju almost a month ago and will be ready to separate in a few weeks.

 

[Shima]

I'm still going to wire some branches of trident in the ground. Probably get enough roots to separate by November.

 

[Dav4]

Here's a picture of the lower trunk. It's hard to believe this tree was planted here out of 1 gal nursery pot just 7 years ago. It's going to be ground layered right at the graft which is 3-4 inches above the root spread. If successful, this will be my proposed front. I'm wondering if anyone can see the tree I see in this stock? One hint is that it's inspiration come from one of @MACH5 's beautiful trees.

 

[armetisius]

Here's a picture of the lower trunk. . . . right at the graft which is 3-4 inches above the root spread . . . beautiful trees.

It is a ground layer; put a six inch high "skirt" around it.
That way you can mound it in the Winter if needed for
protection. Should be good come mid Spring next year.

 

[Dav4]

It is a ground layer; put a six inch high "skirt" around it.
That way you can mound it in the Winter if needed for
protection. Should be good come mid Spring next year.

I was tempted to start it now, but will wait until spring. I'd be concerned I might kill the tree if I started it now.

 

[coh]

Here's a picture of the lower trunk. It's hard to believe this tree was planted here out of 1 gal nursery pot just 7 years ago. It's going to be ground layered right at the graft which is 3-4 inches above the root spread. If successful, this will be my proposed front. I'm wondering if anyone can see the tree I see in this stock? One hint is that it's inspiration come from one of @MACH5 's beautiful trees.
View attachment 114703

Hmm, well...there's really no taper in the main trunk segment that goes up to the left after the bend. So unless you are planning to grow a bunch of sac's down low to build the trunk there, I'm guessing that section will get chopped and you'll use the smaller trunk on the right as a new leader, and make a slanting tree. Either that, or chop the whole thing and build a really short sumo style.

 

[DrBonsai]

Could you start an air layer now but wait until spring to separate it ?
I understand you might have to insulate the air layer area with bubble wrap etc.

 

[Dav4]

Could you start an air layer now but wait until spring to separate it ?
I understand you might have to insulate the air layer area with bubble wrap etc.

I could but I suspect it would be risky to do so. I suspect I'll have my tree on a new set of roots by June '17' if I start the layer in March.

 

[Dav4]

Hmm, well...there's really no taper in the main trunk segment that goes up to the left after the bend. So unless you are planning to grow a bunch of sac's down low to build the trunk there, I'm guessing that section will get chopped and you'll use the smaller trunk on the right as a new leader, and make a slanting tree. Either that, or chop the whole thing and build a really short sumo style.

There is taper beyond the first bend, but it's subtle.

 

[coh]

There is taper beyond the first bend, but it's subtle.

Must be! Definitely hard to see in the photo, but if there's enough I'd want to keep part of that second trunk segment.

 

[coh]

Bump...I'm still curious about your plans, even if no one else is!

 

[thumblessprimate1]

Cool, Dave! I started some airlayers earlier this month. Will be neat to have some roots at the start of Nov. Let's follow up then!

 

[Dav4]

Bump...I'm still curious about your plans, even if no one else is!

Sorry, I was hoping more people might take a stab at it. My plan is to have a taller, feminine trunk moving definitively to the left. The larger branch coming off in the upper left portion of the picture above would become the apex. Of course, this is all predicated on me carrying out a successful ground layer...and there could be better fronts that I can't see at the moment. We'll know for sure in a few years.

 

[Dav4]

I should be able to separate this one in a few weeks...

 

[RobertB]

was this successful?

 

[Dav4]

was this successful?

Yup. All layers took and are growing well.

 

[BrightsideB]

Yup. All layers took and are growing well.

Thanks for posting this. I am from Woodstock Ga and just did some air layers in early July on some jm's that are in shade all day. My first time. Cant see any roots yet. Did you just put them in pots after cutting them for the winter?