creating new roots, repotting to late?

[helmut_kohl]

hi,


my usual german bonsai forum is a bit slow so i thought i try a new forum...
ive got a common hornbeam which i would like to cut in half, i did remove 2cm (0,78 inch) of the bark of the tree where i would like to cut it.

im not really sure how this process is called in english, in germany its "abmoosen".
the part where the bark is removed theres a container around it with the same height containing perlit which ive been keeping moist all the time so that the three will create new roots at this point.


its been almost a month now, some sources say that 6-8 weeks will do to create new roots.
should i cut the tree now or wait till the next year....could it survive with its new roots?

 

[whfarro]

Air-layer is the term. Typically removing the layered section is dependent on 2 factors. 1. Sufficient roots are established for the Section to survive, and 2. Sufficient time is available to allow those roots to settle in on their own after potting before winter.

Many others here have much more experience and can give better and more specific advice.

Viel Gluck

 

[0soyoung]

Gently poke around in the soil with your finger to explore what you have gotten for roots so far - just get an idea (mature roots won't be harmed, but you may damage fleshy, white, young ones). If you are layering a hornbeam that is in a bonsai pot, you could simply dump the pearlite into another container and replace it after you've looked.

As whfarro said

removing the layered section is dependent on 2 factors. 1. Sufficient roots are established for the Section to survive, and 2. Sufficient time is available to allow those roots to settle in on their own after potting before winter.

The layer, pearlite and all, can be left in place over the winter if need be. Try to protect it just like you would protect the roots of your bonsai over winter even though it is not as important as protecting your bonsai's roots - if the layer roots should freeze they will die, but next season new layer roots will be generated again.

btw, I prefer to use my bonsai substrate instead of pearlite for layering because the new roots are hardened in place - it eliminates whfarro's step 2 (or step 2 is simultaneous with step 1).

 

[Paradox]

The more roots you have the better chance the new tree has to survive. Just be very careful as Osoyoung says.

Please post some pictures, Id be very curious to see how an airlayer on a hornbeam goes.

 

[sorce]

try a new forum

You found THE forum.

I call it Crazy!

Welcome to it !

Sorce

 

[helmut_kohl]

thanks guys, will take a peek later and post some pictures

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

Do not separate your air layer until there are sufficient roots. If no roots form, or too few roots form, it is okay to leave the air layer attached to the source tree all winter. Store your tree over winter the same way you usually do, it is not critical to provide "extra protection", just continue to grow the tree as you would normally. Key is to not remove the air layer too soon.

I found when air layering pines, it can take 2 or 3 years. Generally with deciduous, the air layer will form roots in one season, but not always. So just let the presence of roots determine when you remove the air layer.

 

[Paradox]

I havent done many air layers. The few I have done were mostly successful, but I also wonder if there is a best time of year to separate the air layer? I would think the height of summer might not be the best time? Considering the tree is probably in a semi-dormant state from the heat? Maybe as the summer cools down and we start getting the late summer/early fall growth period would be best?

 

[helmut_kohl]

sadly no roots have formed in the first month
the white parts are the perlite, or something like perlite

any ideas on how to proceed? i guess if there are zero roots after the first month, they wont come at all

 

[helmut_kohl]

'push'

 

[hemmy]

Is the white and yellow stuff ringing the tree the "something-like perlite"? Is there fungus growing in it? It looks slimy and gross.

Make sure that the tree hasn't healed with a 'bridge' of bark connecting the top to the bottom and that you have removed all the cambium and phloem down to the xylem so that no nutrient pathways are still present taking those sugars back to the roots.

 

[helmut_kohl]

after watching this:

i believe that that is callus tissue.
hm, maybe i did not remove enough of the bork...will do another try next year

 

[0soyoung]

maybe i did not remove enough of the bork

Nope. That is not the problem.
It may be due to things out of your control, but do try again.

As far as this try is concerned, wrap it back up and check on it next year, just keep the pearlite inside damp, meanwhile.

 

[Nwaite]

after watching this:

i believe that that is callus tissue.
hm, maybe i did not remove enough of the bork...will do another try next year

Just watched this the other day.. it got me super pumped for next spring. I never new you could use such a large tree.

 

[vicn]

That is definitely the callous forming around your cut, and you should replace the perlite and keep damp. Next spring you can check again and it may be ready then to cut off.

 

[Leo in N E Illinois]

It is not that unusual for an air layer to take more than one summer. Just keep it moist.