Ebihara maples

[markyscott]

I worked my way all around the tree


Cut the stronger roots back to a branch, but leave the weaker ones long. We're looking for a balance root system - everything the same strength all the way around the tree. In then end the roots should be balanced - the same strength and root mass all the way around the tree.

 

[Adair M]

Scott, did you cut any "windows" on the trunk where you want new roots?

 

[markyscott]

Somebody tried to convince us that the small roots fuse - I'd say this is pretty good evidence that they don't really fuse.

Man, I bet you wish you would have started with an air layer. I'm sure this trouble wouldn't happen with an air layer.

Thanks Scott. This is an interesting thread.

I don't see any evidence of fusing on this tree - I think the main effect is that the spreading roots cause cell division at the base of the trunk. If the roots are radial and all the same strength the spreading is uniform.

 

[markyscott]

Scott, did you cut any "windows" on the trunk where you want new roots?

I did not, but I may try that next time. I can't say that I've observed that to be more effective that not cutting windows. Generally I just grafted roots onto bald spots on the nebari where I need them.

 

[markyscott]

I put a drainage layer into the bottom of the pot and attach the board with wires I pass through holes drilled through the corner of the board.

 

[markyscott]

Coarse soil is layered on top of the board, worked in with chopsticks and watered in.

 

[markyscott]

I like to water thoroughly. Even after repeated screenings to remove fines, a lot of dust will come out when you water.

 

[iant]

Scott,
Many thanks for sharing your experience.
I have to say, however, that to me that root growth looks a little anemic. The roots also look fairly wet. I wonder if your soil mix is holding too much moisture or perhaps having the roots on top of a rotting piece of pine may not be as good of an idea as we think. I bought a maple from Telperion that has a nice nebari that came on top of a thin fabric disc that the roots can't penetrate. It seems to work well and I used it again with repotting.
It may just be the Photos but it really looks like you may have a bit too much continuous moisture around those roots. Do you mind if I ask what you're using as a substrate?
Ian

 

[markyscott]

Scott,
Many thanks for sharing your experience.
I have to say, however, that to me that root growth looks a little anemic. The roots also look fairly wet. I wonder if your soil mix is holding too much moisture or perhaps having the roots on top of a rotting piece of pine may not be as good of an idea as we think. I bought a maple from Telperion that has a nice nebari that came on top of a thin fabric disc that the roots can't penetrate. It seems to work well and I used it again with repotting.
It may just be the Photos but it really looks like you may have a bit too much continuous moisture around those roots. Do you mind if I ask what you're using as a substrate?
Ian

I agree and think it was too wet as well. I used APL (akadama, lava, pumice) as a mix, but previously used 1/8" to 1/4" mix which is pretty fine grained. When I repotted I used a 1/4"-3/8" mix with a bit more pumice to make a drier mix.

 

[0soyoung]

I don't see any evidence of fusing on this tree - I think the main effect is that the spreading roots cause cell division at the base of the trunk. If the roots are radial and all the same strength the spreading is uniform.

I see it as analogous to having threaded a seedling through a tile or applied a tourniquet: auxin and photosynthate pile up at the restriction and cause 'swelling' at the tile surface. First order, uniformity would depend upon the auxin and phloem sap flow arriving at the base of the tree, which depends upon what is above, not below. After roots have popped, the new phloem tubes (made by cell division in the cambium) will be patterned to direct sap flow to those roots, where ever they are around the circumference.

 

[Tieball]

I worked my way all around the tree
View attachment 129115

Cut the stronger roots back to a branch, but leave the weaker ones long. We're looking for a balance root system - everything the same strength all the way around the tree. In then end the roots should be balanced - the same strength and root mass all the way around the tree.
View attachment 129116

I'm exploring....can you tell me the trunk diameter above the soil line?....maybe about an inch or so above?

 

[dirk hoorelbeke]

Thanks for the details!

 

[just.wing.it]

@markyscott
Nice tutorial, as usual.
Very informative.
I can't wait to try this technique.

 

[markyscott]

I'm exploring....can you tell me the trunk diameter above the soil line?....maybe about an inch or so above?

Approximately 2". You can see in this post.

 

[MACH5]

I did not, but I may try that next time. I can't say that I've observed that to be more effective that not cutting windows. Generally I just grafted roots onto bald spots on the nebari where I need them.

Same here. I have had no significant results by cutting windows into the base at least not yet. I almost always resort to grafting. However, I always encourage trying it as it is quite easy to do, not much effort required and you just may get lucky!

EDIT: Very nice and detailed work Scott!

 

[markyscott]

Same here. I have had no significant results by cutting windows into the base at least not yet. I almost always resort to grafting. However, I always encourage trying it as it is quite easy to do, not much effort required and you just may get lucky!

EDIT: Very nice and detailed work Scott!

Thanks Sergio - that means a lot coming from you.

Scott

 

[wireme]

Thanks Sergio - that means a lot coming from you.

Scott

I've tried it 4 or 5 times myself. Cut window, pack with sphagnum, bury well. Disappointed with results every time and stopped trying. This was Amur Maples. Could well be operator error of some kind, I'd be interested to hear from anyone who has had good results.

 

[Adair M]

Here is a link to a Facebook post Boon made yesterday. Seems they were doing the exact same thing on an Intensive class!

https://www.facebook.com/groups/685141798229107/permalink/1217543464988935/

 

[AlainK]

Somebody tried to convince us that the small roots fuse

I may be wrong, but I think that roots fuse better when they are above soil level... (?)

 

[Adair M]

I may be wrong, but I think that roots fuse better when they are above soil level... (?)

No. Just the opposite. Being buried keeps them moist. They don't "bark up". The bark that protects them from the sun, and drying up, slows the fusing.

See the one I posted on the Facebook link. Once the roots get really well established, the fusing starts.