Nope doesn't do much except put pock marks in your tree. Back budding on most species, maple, hornbeam (most any hardwood deciduous) is produced by pruning back a trunk or limb to old wood. Trunks and limbs concentrate the pathways for hormones and nutrients. Pruning into older wood stops the transfer of those and stimulate resting buds. While you may get a lucky stab that stops enough of those, that technique isn't disruptive enough for the most part.
This can vary from species to species, but for most deciduous trees, it's the way. You can also graft on new limbs where you need them, thread or approach graft using separate seedlings or new flexible shoots on the tree.
Serious though getting plants to bud on old wood varies by plant and the season it is pruned as well as how it is done. There is no simple one way approach that works 100 percent unless your grafting skills are perfect and even that is known not to work on all plants. There are also some species that I have been told will never but did for me like Japanese Larch. The upside was three need branches two of which I kept. The downside is I had to waste an entire two seasons for it to happen...
