Pot Matching for Trident

Q-Bonsai

Mame
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I have an idea of the type/style of pot I would like this tree in, but am curious to see what everybody else thinks.



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Nice trunk with loads of potential. But with the developmental stage of the branches, it's not ready for anything other than a training pot for several more years. Your next pot should be shallower and wider.

I also like to imagine what pot a certain plant would look good in, but until they are nearly finished, it's an exercise in futility. I have pots that I bought for certain plants much too early that have never been used because they ended up not being the best choice.
 
Nice trunk with loads of potential. But with the developmental stage of the branches, it's not ready for anything other than a training pot for several more years. Your next pot should be shallower and wider.

I also like to imagine what pot a certain plant would look good in, but until they are nearly finished, it's an exercise in futility. I have pots that I bought for certain plants much too early that have never been used because they ended up not being the best choice.

I would like to get it in a bonsai pot to work on the branches. In my opinion, slowing down the growth a bit would be beneficial. I prefer to work on branching (unless a good amount of thickening is required) in a bonsai pot to reduce control the vigorous growth. Just a personal preference but completely understand your point.
 
Here's one that I'll definitely throw into a thinner pot and cut back on this spring to work on ramification.

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I would like to get it in a bonsai pot to work on the branches. In my opinion, slowing down the growth a bit would be beneficial. I prefer to work on branching (unless a good amount of thickening is required) in a bonsai pot to reduce control the vigorous growth. Just a personal preference but completely understand your point.

just out of curiosity are you fertilizing with chemical or organic at tho stage of development? As I discovered that I can control my internode length pretty well on tridents by switching them to organics when i need to start the ramification process
 
just out of curiosity are you fertilizing with chemical or organic at tho stage of development? As I discovered that I can control my internode length pretty well on tridents by switching them to organics when i need to start the ramification process

I only use 0-10-10 (mainly spring and fall) and fish emulsion (summer). Depending on the season and the tree I adjust application frequency. Some tree, I'll alternate, some I fertilize every 3 days, others once a week, very few do I fertilize less than once every other week during the growing season.
 
I would like to get it in a bonsai pot to work on the branches. In my opinion, slowing down the growth a bit would be beneficial. I prefer to work on branching (unless a good amount of thickening is required) in a bonsai pot to reduce control the vigorous growth. Just a personal preference but completely understand your point.
I'm confused (I know, I know, big shocker!). You say you want to put it into a bonsai pot, but it appears to be in one now. If you repot that tree into a smaller pot, you will certainly slow down growth, but I cant imagine it is growing very quickly now, seeing that it is in a pot and you dont use N fert except the little bit in fish emulsion. Help me understand what you mean.
 
I would like to get it in a bonsai pot to work on the branches. In my opinion, slowing down the growth a bit would be beneficial. I prefer to work on branching (unless a good amount of thickening is required) in a bonsai pot to reduce control the vigorous growth. Just a personal preference but completely understand your point.

I'm not saying not to put it into a bonsai pot. Rather, put it in an oversized, inexpensive pot, instead of a more expensive "final" pot.

In my opinion, your branches do need considerable thickening. This can be achieved in a bonsai pot, it will just take longer. How long it takes isn't necessarily a problem, only a trade-off, as the longer development should create more realistic/intricate branching.
 
I'm confused (I know, I know, big shocker!). You say you want to put it into a bonsai pot, but it appears to be in one now. If you repot that tree into a smaller pot, you will certainly slow down growth, but I cant imagine it is growing very quickly now, seeing that it is in a pot and you dont use N fert except the little bit in fish emulsion. Help me understand what you mean.

A smaller pot is what I meant... The pots that the trees are a bit deep. They grow very quickly with my fertilization schedule. I'm in Houston and find that my trees are a lot happier when fertilized frequently. With that said, they grow very aggressively. With a smaller pot (essentially a presentable pot that it would stay in for several years) I can keep the trees happy while slowing the growth on the branching a bit. The tree in the clay pot is a lot further along than the one in the mica pot; I picked out a 16.5" oval tokaname pot that is about 2.5" deep, to place it in next spring and it will stay with that pot for several years.
 
I'm not saying not to put it into a bonsai pot. Rather, put it in an oversized, inexpensive pot, instead of a more expensive "final" pot.

In my opinion, your branches do need considerable thickening. This can be achieved in a bonsai pot, it will just take longer. How long it takes isn't necessarily a problem, only a trade-off, as the longer development should create more realistic/intricate branching.

I am not in too much of a rush to get those branches to thicken. However, I am a control freak with a borderline obsession to detail: I hand water all of my trees (trees are separated into sections with different water requirements), fertilize frequently, and monitor wiring closely and frequently. I will take the trade-off of slower thickening to have better control of its growth and development. The one in the clay pot got away from me last year and I am going to have to cut back a bit this year. I dislike having to do that....
 
Q-bonsai,

If I remember correctly, you were looking for a trident a while back, is this the tree you end up with? If so, nice tree. Do you get fall colors in Houston (not much so here in Southern California)? I think either an oval with beige or deep-blue glaze will compliment the tree. Great material

-Vince
 
Q-bonsai,

If I remember correctly, you were looking for a trident a while back, is this the tree you end up with? If so, nice tree. Do you get fall colors in Houston (not much so here in Southern California)? I think either an oval with beige or deep-blue glaze will compliment the tree. Great material

-Vince

Well... yes and no. Yes I wound up getting the one in the mica pot, already had the one in the clay pot, and always looking for quality tridents. But along the lines of that quality (unless it's a bargain). I already have a few tridents that are at a very elementary stage so at this point I am mainly looking for material that is a bit further along.

As for fall colors, it depends on the year. This year, yes, Houston has gone as low as 28 so the leaves are starting to turn.

I have been told oval a lot, and am starting to lean that way. I originally thought a rectangle with cut-off corners. Beige is also one of the colors I had in mind but I think the deep blue would be very offensive to this tree. Deep blue is too loud unless it's a tree with a lot of color (azaleas, camelias, etc), but I think blue is the right track... Blueish grey?
 
The tree is semi-formal classification. The styling of your tree I am unsure, but looks like Usumoyou. So that would be semi-formal as well. A Glazed, oval pot is the one that matches this tree and styling classification. I do not know if you plan on exhibiting this tree, but a Japanese display professional critiqued this display by Smoke at the Toko Kazari competition. This Japanese display professional said this was one of the best examples of a correct pot paired with a tree that he had seen.

Hopefully, Smoke does not take issue with me posting a pic of his display, as I think it would put you on a good track to find a pot for your tree.
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The tree is semi-formal classification. The styling of your tree I am unsure, but looks like Usumoyou. So that would be semi-formal as well. A Glazed, oval pot is the one that matches this tree and styling classification. I do not know if you plan on exhibiting this tree, but a Japanese display professional critiqued this display by Smoke at the Toko Kazari competition. This Japanese display professional said this was one of the best examples of a correct pot paired with a tree that he had seen.

Hopefully, Smoke does not take issue with me posting a pic of his display, as I think it would put you on a good track to find a pot for your tree.
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Hi Johnathan

We discussed photos a few years ago. I had told you that you could use any of my photo's as long as they recieved the correct attribution as to where they came from. I appreciate the tag here. What happened at IBC is the photo's were taken either from here, or my blog and posted at IBC as coming from Bob Hilvers. He has no photo's at all. Does not even own a camera. I have known Bob for twenty years and have not known him to ever take a photo of a tree. Hopefully this will resolve the "issue"
 
The tree is semi-formal classification. The styling of your tree I am unsure, but looks like Usumoyou. So that would be semi-formal as well. A Glazed, oval pot is the one that matches this tree and styling classification. I do not know if you plan on exhibiting this tree, but a Japanese display professional critiqued this display by Smoke at the Toko Kazari competition. This Japanese display professional said this was one of the best examples of a correct pot paired with a tree that he had seen.

Hopefully, Smoke does not take issue with me posting a pic of his display, as I think it would put you on a good track to find a pot for your tree.
View attachment 45507

Unless the trunk is bone straight and the apex is right over the rootbase, it is considerd informal. Any trunk with a curve is informal. A classical moyogi will have a curved trunk, but the apex will finish over the root base. If the apex wanders off the root base, it will become a slanted bonsai, again informal. As far as a tree goes, there is only formal,(Chokkan) and informal, (moyogi). The distinction between the two will come by way of the masculinity and femininity, thus people confusing masculine trees as formal and feminine trees as informal.
 
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I know different schools of display use different styles of classification of individual pieces. The display system of Gaddou uses the Formal, Semi-Formal, and Informal. The tree is then classified based upon Species and then Styling. Moyou styled trees are classified as formal in Gaddou, whereas Usumoyou is more Semi-formal.

That is my reasoning for classifying the bonsai in question as a Gyou no Gyou piece.

It is an easier structure for me to understand why certain pots, accent pieces, tables would go well together, because each piece is classified in a similar way.

Scrolls are also classified with two levels of formality based upon the characteristics of the framework to the artpiece... Shin no Shin, Gyou no Sou etc...
 
That may be true when talking about a scroll, because you are formaly framing art. But for the most part, it is the objects gender and the power it exudes which give it formality or informality.

A stand is not necessarily formal or informal but rather very powerful and masculine or soft and feminine. Just the fact that a stand is used makes it formal. An informal display would be on a burl slab or Jiita or grass or bamboo matt.

The evocative display is the one that can blend together various genders to subtly tell its story. Blending genders is the best and first step in drama and dynamicism.

There is nothing so powerful as the soft and feminine curves and sparse foliage of a great bungin executed with a powerful and dynamic masculine pot with sharp edges.

Here are two bunjin trees with informal nanban pots with very masculine attributes. Sharp corners, angled sides. A very different feel with the feminine image of the trees.
 

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