Any experiments for 2016?

Smoke

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This is going to be the year that Smoke goes organic. I have decided that I will continue more experiments into using seedling orchid bark as an addition to my soil mix. I have figured the proportion to be about 40 % pumice and the same of lava and 20% bark. No akadama for this mix. Just the addition of the bark for not only its CEC capabilities but also its moisture retentive properties. The bark has little fines, already sifted and is about 1/4 inch particle, same as my other strata.

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Anthony

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This year, we test compost tea as the only fertiliser for the older trees [ 30 years +]
The idea is to see if it helps with the refinement.

We already use aged compost as our organic, no complaints.
Good Year
Anthony
 

GroveKeeper

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I'm going to be experimenting with a few native trees that I've never seen anybody use for bonsai. In particular, a tree/shrub named Ximenia Americana, or tallow plum. It has nice bark, attractive(and really fragant leaves) and showey yellow fruit). I'll be hunting for seedlings and making cuttings.

I also will be trying to grow coco plum and these new black diamond crape myrtles I picked up at Home Depot.

I have a dwarf mulberry project too
 

sorce

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My Ulmus Braidus continues into the new year.20151101_122312.jpg

I had to bend it low as hell to hide it. But it lives. With no root work in spring....I expect this to put on and be an inch or bigger by next fall. The idea is to create a lot of taper and crazy lines to heal into a monster with nodes everywhere....but not obnoxious like a dwarf. It'll be layered off when I get a base to do so at.

But you know....with Geos blessing....
If I get my yard....
It's gonna be a Whole new level to My Crazy.
And Y'all thought I was bad now!
Oooo Choppy! Choppy Choppy!

Off to the drink....

Sorce
 

Mellow Mullet

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This is going to be the year that Smoke goes organic. I have decided that I will continue more experiments into using seedling orchid bark as an addition to my soil mix. I have figured the proportion to be about 40 % pumice and the same of lava and 20% bark. No akadama for this mix. Just the addition of the bark for not only its CEC capabilities but also its moisture retentive properties. The bark has little fines, already sifted and is about 1/4 inch particle, same as my other strata.

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Looks good, Al, I use fir bark in my soil, up to 40%, depending on the tree. I find that it works well in the summer to hold moisture through the day here in the deep south. I work 12 hour shifts so I can't water but once a day, the bark sees them through. I have tried the 100% inorganic route, but it was just too dry (some even wilting) by time watering time came around.

John
 

Giga

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I'll be testing loblolly pine for bonsai. I did a little testing last year and they will do 3 flushes in one season. Got the needles down to 2". I have a few big ones I plan on collecting this spring. They grow likes weeds here and I like to experiment
 

sorce

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I suck at it

Forgive me....but that reads way to hard on yourself....live that avatar.....release yourself...

You know....if anyone needs to eye great pot pairings.....those Marie Kapra shohin threads are aces IMO.

I think the hardest part is getting tree with pot to see it....Lotta legwork....or a lot of ownership...kinda blows for efficiency!

But brother....I know you have a better eye than you feel you do!
You do some amazing shit!

Sorce
 

ianb

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After years of trying to grow maples, chojubai etc in Socal without much success (compared to when I lived on the East coast) I decided to test my water and ugh it ain't good.

So anyway I bought a couple of filters to reduce chlorine & chloramines, heavy metals and lower ph, will be doing additional ph adjustments for sensitive trees too. So we will see if this helps. Fingers crossed.
 

thumblessprimate1

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I started a couple mahonias already, and I began approach grafting jbp to a slash pine. May try some scions too for practice.
 

wireme

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This is going to be the year that Smoke goes organic. I have decided that I will continue more experiments into using seedling orchid bark as an addition to my soil mix. I have figured the proportion to be about 40 % pumice and the same of lava and 20% bark. No akadama for this mix. Just the addition of the bark for not only its CEC capabilities but also its moisture retentive properties. The bark has little fines, already sifted and is about 1/4 inch particle, same as my other strata.

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View attachment 90570
Glad to hear it. It's always seemed to me that the reasoning for using akadama and organics are very similar. CEC as you say, then akadama users will say things like "akadama is great it breaks down and evolves with the root system, you can't use organics because they will break down in the soil." Or, akadama is great it holds moisture and fertilizer, you can't use organics because they hold too much moisture and fertilizer." Reminds me of my favourite quote from one of my India trips.
"it's impossible to get to Kaza by jeep at this time of year, he is going tomorrow, you can ride with him".
Anyways as the experienced and observant akadama user that you are I look forward to hearing your thoughts afterwards. I use a different chunky organic than bark, want to try it out for me? I'll send you a bit.
 

Smoke

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Glad to hear it. It's always seemed to me that the reasoning for using akadama and organics are very similar. CEC as you say, then akadama users will say things like "akadama is great it breaks down and evolves with the root system, you can't use organics because they will break down in the soil." Or, akadama is great it holds moisture and fertilizer, you can't use organics because they hold too much moisture and fertilizer." Reminds me of my favourite quote from one of my India trips.
"it's impossible to get to Kaza by jeep at this time of year, he is going tomorrow, you can ride with him".
Anyways as the experienced and observant akadama user that you are I look forward to hearing your thoughts afterwards. I use a different chunky organic than bark, want to try it out for me? I'll send you a bit.
Pete cobble?
 

Mellow Mullet

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Forgive me....but that reads way to hard on yourself....live that avatar.....release yourself...

You know....if anyone needs to eye great pot pairings.....those Marie Kapra shohin threads are aces IMO.

I think the hardest part is getting tree with pot to see it....Lotta legwork....or a lot of ownership...kinda blows for efficiency!

But brother....I know you have a better eye than you feel you do!
You do some amazing shit!

Sorce

Thanks scorce, you are a ray of sunlight sometimes.

John
 
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Gonna do a mame soil experiment. Already had great tips from Khaimraj, will now see what time brings us.
Updates/showoff will come latah
 

Anthony

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Tentakelaertje,

K is reading through Rodales - Composting Tome, it links into Al's humus information.

The book also says that Peat Moss can hold 15 times it's weight in water. 1 gal [ 3.8 litres ] of water = 10lbs [ o.54 Kilo = 1lb ]
And the peat moss encourages fine root growth.

So what is that - 1 lb peat moss = 15 gallons water ?

Realise, the problem with using peat moss [ possibly compost ] may simply be ---------- how little organic should be used by volume ?

Would fir bark or any other organic have this problem ?
Good Year
Anthony

* Now is peat moss from Canada, different in properties from peat moss elsewhere in the world ?
 

leatherback

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about 40 % pumice and the same of lava and 20% bark. No akadama for this mix. Just the addition of the bark for not only its CEC capabilities but also its moisture retentive properties.
I planted some seedling crabapples in pure acadama, and in a lava/bark mixture in spring. The results are almost out. Will pull them from my pots later this winter, and take some comparative pictures. I can hint: You might be onto something. :)

Myself, I will try my hand at grafting juniper foliage.
 
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Actually no idea Anthony.. I have not experimented enough with soil to know it..
In the greenhouse at work we use cocopeat for soil, stuff gets grown in 100% cocopeat. Holds a lot of moisture, I've used it in small amounts in bonsai pots too, but was not very happy with it. It gets soggy quickly and does not dry out fast.
For the rest, only experience with superdensa (pond substrate), heavy clay, perlite and those fired hydroponic clay balls.
Bought my first bag of bark a few months ago, but it's still closed..

Can't say it enough, but I think the amount and the way you and K experiment is really awesome. Very sciency!

Also, Jelle's experiment is very promising!
 

Cadillactaste

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I already use a slight organic mix...curious what your out take will be using it.

As for me, being daring enough to maybe cut that maple I bought...back real hard. I know I can develop a nice little tree...or in time a sweet tree. Do I want to wait a year losing time to see how it does for me...or just do the deed and be done with it. Thinking, just do it already.
 

Anthony

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Maarten,

[ what does Tenta....... mean ? a mouthful, English is normally so short / brief - laughs nervously ]

K sat down and hand rolled x 8 mm clay balls, fired them and then started a Ficus p. experiment using his version of Leca, and added a tiny % of compost.
Then remembered the ClayArt pottery list, to ask for a faster way to produce the balls - gave us much amusement.

Coco-peat breaks down for us in about 2 months, faster if exposed to compost.

Using the Ball Bearing idea has helped a great deal, getting the 3 mm glass spheres, allowed us to really observe, drainage, air space, and how compost
affects the tree.
As Osoyoung reminded me, Hydroponics does the same with inorganic fertiliser.
BUT we work from Rodale's organic ideas.

Plus making compost is easy, and sifting is enjoyable -------- also we are really cheap ------- it's the Chinese and Scottish bloods - :):):)

Have a great Day / Year.
Anthony [ now featuring on another topic as Igor ]:p:):)

* apologies toooooo jovial today.
 
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