Transplanting shimpakus

Ezell

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First year into shimpakus; kishu , itoigawa, sargentii. All my trees are in in plastic nursery containers.Would like advice on root system. Wanting to transplant into training pots, yes some are worthy and ready (24+yrs), is best to rake out roots, leave as much as possible or slightly trim. I still want to train,progress them. Question is pot size? Slightly bigger pot which can accommodate most root or trim roots back a certain percentage to the size of root ball, if so what would be a good percentage. I understand that the health of tree is the most important. So let's say tree is in excellent health. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
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You should watch Bjorn Bjorholms youtube series "the bonsai art of japan" He covers nearly all you could want to know about Shimpaku, JBP, and Hinoki Cypress across the 45 part mini-series and it's all good information from reliable sources.

Here's a link if your interested: https://www.youtube.com/user/bjorvalabonsai/videos

Or a shorter answer to your question, most professionals i have worked with cut back 30-40% of the root system when going into their first bonsai pot, then reduce again after 1-2 full growing seasons to not stress the shrub and induce juvenile growth. But i have seen people just whack their roots before and although they get a little dying the shrubs still seem to do ok although not as good as they would have if done in a 2 step reduction.
 

Ezell

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You should watch Bjorn Bjorholms youtube series "the bonsai art of japan" He covers nearly all you could want to know about Shimpaku, JBP, and Hinoki Cypress across the 45 part mini-series and it's all good information from reliable sources.

Here's a link if your interested: https://www.youtube.com/user/bjorvalabonsai/videos

Or a shorter answer to your question, most professionals i have worked with cut back 30-40% of the root system when going into their first bonsai pot, then reduce again after 1-2 full growing seasons to not stress the shrub and induce juvenile growth. But i have seen people just whack their roots before and although they get a little dying the shrubs still seem to do ok although not as good as they would have if done in a 2 step reduction.
Thank you for your help, nothing beats hands-on experience and leads to go with it
 

Brian Van Fleet

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First year into shimpakus; kishu , itoigawa, sargentii. All my trees are in in plastic nursery containers.Would like advice on root system. Wanting to transplant into training pots, yes some are worthy and ready (24+yrs), is best to rake out roots, leave as much as possible or slightly trim. I still want to train,progress them. Question is pot size? Slightly bigger pot which can accommodate most root or trim roots back a certain percentage to the size of root ball, if so what would be a good percentage. I understand that the health of tree is the most important. So let's say tree is in excellent health. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Many different answers are possible to the questions you asked.

What are you trying to accomplish by transplanting them from nursery containers into training pots?
To replace bad soil?
Raking out the roots of junipers is more to remove old, broken-down soil. Do this over several years, replacing part of the soil one year, and the rest another year. You can be more aggressive with healthy junipers than pines.
To grow the trees bigger?
Don't work the roots if you're trying to grow the trees out. As long as the soil is still draining, junipers will bulk up faster, even in restricted pots, if you just let them grow without pruning the top or bottom.

What are you trying to accomplish by trimming roots?
No need if they fit in the pot.
If you have some surface root issues, you can address them over successive transplantings. Usually this involves and planting angle change, or an aerial root.

How about some pix? Always interesting to see some new trees. Check my website, lots of info on shimps.
 

Ezell

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Many different answers are possible to the questions you asked.

What are you trying to accomplish by transplanting them from nursery containers into training pots?
To replace bad soil?
Raking out the roots of junipers is more to remove old, broken-down soil. Do this over several years, replacing part of the soil one year, and the rest another year. You can be more aggressive with healthy junipers than pines.
To grow the trees bigger?
Don't work the roots if you're trying to grow the trees out. As long as the soil is still draining, junipers will bulk up faster, even in restricted pots, if you just let them grow without pruning the top or bottom.

What are you trying to accomplish by trimming roots?
No need if they fit in the pot.
If you have some surface root issues, you can address them over successive transplantings. Usually this involves and planting angle change, or an aerial root.

How about some pix? Always interesting to see some new trees. Check my website, lots of info on shimps.
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
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I know a host of individuals will take exceptions to the times of years I have been known to repot my Shimpakus, Summer through Christmas. I have included one of them I did this last summer.

Another point: Shimpakus are very durable and can endure almost any offense to the root system-----at a time. However make sure you do not continue messing with the roots or you will slow the tree way down and maybe kill it. You should wait three seasons before messing with the roots another time.ContestShimp13.jpgContestShimp2016.jpg
 

Ezell

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All my trees are container grown 2-3 gallon, good soil, very healthy, heavy foliage. After taken in all advice about transplanting , u made very clear, not a problem (use good judgement). Here's the deal, I planned on heavy wiring, thinning and refinement this month( Jan), will it be to much stress to transplant and work the tree at one time or spread it out and if so what guideline of a time frame. My better judgement tells me spread it out, pick one or the other. . No pics, had trouble trying to send earlier?, have to try another time. So if I could get your opinion Id appreciate it , thanks
 

Ezell

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All my trees are container grown 2-3 gallon, good soil, very healthy, heavy foliage. After taken in all advice about transplanting , u made very clear, not a problem (use good judgement). Here's the deal, I planned on heavy wiring, thinning and refinement this month( Jan), will it be to much stress to transplant and work the tree at one time or spread it out and if so what guideline of a time frame. My better judgement tells me spread it out, pick one or the other. . No pics, had trouble trying to send earlier?, have to try an, treesother time. So if I could get your opinion Id appreciate it , thanks
I have add , trees I'm concerned about have been worked in the past, branch selection mainly and left to fill out. So trees are very dense at this time.
 

Vance Wood

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Pictures of your trees would be helpful if not entertaining and nice to look at.
 

Ezell

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Feel like a fool, can't figure out how. I'm computer dumb-ass, when Ido figure out I'll send.
 

Vance Wood

Lord Mugo
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You take a field like this in a reply or a post and take a look at the bar of option right above ^ Go to where you store your pictures, select one and drag and drop it into the thread. When you do this you will see something to the case; drop files to upload here. You will get you image to be posted in a separate field below.
In this case this is an Hinoki Cypress. In the field below you want to click on full image. Then you click on post reply below.DSC_0006.JPG
 

Ezell

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Give me a little time, I need to get back my job at had. I appreciate your help, makes things quicker. I will get it done.
 

Ezell

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Yea I had trouble doing this, I'll learn from my mistake!
 

sorce

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Looks nice and healthy!

Sorce
 

Vance Wood

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DSC_0608 copy.JPG DSC_0621 copy 2.JPG DSC_0602 copy 2.JPG Following are three more Shimpakus that I repotted this last summer and are all doing well.

Neither of them is by any example a finished tree but all of them are in states of development.
 
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