Mr. @Adair M can you chime in ? Note : I don't pinch it. I removed some hanging foliage but at the branch base. Clean cuts.View attachment 159691 View attachment 159690 My shimpaku is developing brown tips on its pads. I watch watering carefully. Should I spray it with daconil, or it is a normal thing ?
How I can remove the foliage tips ? Can those brown tips be pinched without affecting the rest of it ?
If I do this, will it affect somehow, the remaining foliage ?Cut off the brown parts with scissors.
I've never had this problem, so I defer to Bonsai Nut's advice.
If I do this, will it affect somehow, the remaining foliage ?
If I do this, will it affect somehow, the remaining foliage ?
BTW, use of the PVC to just hold the fertilizer in place on top of the soil is a genius idea. I will definitely be employing this next year. Thanks for that. awesome idea.
Will alcohol do the trick, instead of bleach ?The fungus is at this point inside of the tree in the infected tissue, but it moves somewhat slowly, particularly if the weather remains warm and dry and the foliage does not get watered. If you cut off the infected tissue (i.e. make sure you cut BELOW where you see any sign of infection) it is pretty easy to reduce if not totally eliminate. (It is important to note - make sure you take the diseased cuttings and throw them in the GARBAGE and do not compost them or send them to greenwaste where they might be recycled as compost). It affects fresh, soft growth first, so that older, interior (hardened) foliage may not be initially affected.
Of the two fungicides I mention above, the Mancozeb is a topical (on contact) fungicide while the Cleary's 3336 is a systemic (internal) fungicide. Mancozeb seems to control the spread of the disease and works relatively quickly, but needs to be re-applied frequently particularly if it rains. Cleary's 3336 works much more slowly and you have to allow the tree enough time for uptake through the roots (ie don't flush it out of the soil by watering too soon after application). Also Cleary's takes (in my opinion) several weeks before you see any direct results. However the combination of the two treatments seems pretty effective - particularly when combined with removal of any signs of diseased plant tissue.
You can use other topical fungicides with the Mancozeb, for example copper sulfate or Heritage. They all do the same thing in slightly different ways. But rotating a topical with a systemic yields best results.
This disease can be devastating if it gets into a large number of trees. One of my bonsai study group members lost a large part of his juniper collection to it. Make sure you keep your shimpaku away from your other junipers and treat your tools (dip them in a cup of bleach and rinse when you move between trees). Being 100% anal right now will yield good results when you don't find any sign of the disease anywhere in your garden next Spring.
For what it's worth, the fungus can remain active in dead wood for up to two years.
I'm a plumber too !Lol thnx for pointing it out didnt notice got pleny of that stuff being a plumber