11th Floor Shohin thread

petegreg

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This Cotoneaster is probably my favorite little tree, comes from a garden, dug it some eight years ago. It used to have three subtrunks, I didn't see the path to manage them, so chopped three years ago. I always wait for blooms or at least flower buds to do first trimming. Here's it after that and some wire applied. Which front would you follow? The hight is some 15 cm, so enough space to grow and move the top.
A:
2017_0511_09420500.jpg

B:
2017_0511_09430000.jpg
 

defra

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Nice trees you got there !
And yeah you are right the larch looks to have the same thing going on as mine, cool !
 

petegreg

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Thank you, guys, for looking and kind words.
 

petegreg

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Hello here again. Here's my little black mulberry in development. Short, but interesting story. The tree was bought in 2014 from Sándor Pápp when my wife was 40 and we spent a weekend in Budapest as a birthday present. I can't find a better picture , it looked like this:
morus nigra 2014.jpg

Unfortunately after the first winter all the trunk was dry and looked dead although the tree was mulched in the ground. I was advised to use some sugar - glucose when watering, but had only some iont-energy sport drink based on fructose and maltodextrine, so I used it twice, a week after week. I don't know if it helped, but the tree budded from the nebari only. Here's a picture.
morus nigra rez.jpg

Many of new branches had to be removed and I left it with five trunks for next year's. The tree was wired this spring to see if I can make some shohin out of these trunks, still not sure. The tree still misses trunk and branch tapper, but I enjoy fruit. What would you say, is a five trunk shohin doable?
morus nigra 2017 1.jpg
morus nigra 2017 2.jpg
 

petegreg

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Nice taste for special trees.
Thanks, Dirk. Why special? I 'm trying to manage a new growth as it comes and experiment a little bit. I'll see, the leaves can be reduced if trimmed properly and given more sun. I need smaller leaves, some trunk taper, secondary and tertiary branching to fill the image and be able to evaluate if it's doable... And there's always a Q do I want to have fruit or can I sacrifice them?
 

Brian Van Fleet

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That mulberry will be better for the trauma in a couple years. They're tough, so tough that I heard if you use them as fence posts, you have to dig them up and flip them over every few years or they'll root. Nice trees on this thread.
 

defra

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@petegreg how is the larch looking in full leaf now ?
Mine is growing very well even after the hard repot session :)

I like B the most from your cotoneaster
 

petegreg

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That mulberry will be better for the trauma in a couple years. They're tough, so tough that I heard if you use them as fence posts, you have to dig them up and flip them over every few years or they'll root. Nice trees on this thread.

Thank you for the words of encouragement, I appreciate it.
 

petegreg

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Thanks Dennis, both sides of that cotoneaster have some +/-, one has better bark and nebari, second little deadwood detail...I'll try to create two-fronts tree.

The larch is fine, growing vigorously, New growth already pinched twice, the needles hanging down cut. And looks better than naked, I'll post an autumn picture.
 

defra

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Good to hear!

I forgot to tell you why side b for me:
The trunkline shows the movement beter and also the taper and the foliage looks more balanced with side a i get the feeling the foliage hangs to far away from the trunk kinda unbalanced
Cool tree tough and looking forward to its progression!
 

petegreg

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Good to hear!

I forgot to tell you why side b for me:
The trunkline shows the movement beter and also the taper and the foliage looks more balanced with side a i get the feeling the foliage hangs to far away from the trunk kinda unbalanced
Cool tree tough and looking forward to its progression!

Right, I see it. Many details could be defined better with a little smaller leaves. Some more ramification is needed. I've got some C. dammeri in the ground and looking for C. microphylla for smaller trees as well. Thanks for kind words and insight. The trunk was "done" in the ground in my mom's garden. There's more interesting trees growing... and in preparation, but they are fine now right where they are.
 

defra

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Hi, Dennis, I haven't forgotten. Almost yellow, the 2nd half of my trees is gonna be moved to my mom's garden tomorrow, so no more work on this this year. Some branch shortening and adjustments in spring planned...
View attachment 166606

Nice great color amd lovely tree!
Mine started to yellow now too
When the needles of my larch are gone i got to remove the wire and rewire it in januari

The climate at your mom's place is better in winter?
 

BobbyLane

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How does wind and sun affect your trees being so high up? im only on the first floor of a small 3 level block but my hornbeams, beeches, trident tend to suffer the most from wind and sun burn, which looks like this on the hornbeam
22555163_1519650581433311_7568884026942740087_n.jpg


you get these issues?
 

defra

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How does wind and sun affect your trees being so high up? im only on the first floor of a small 3 level block but my hornbeams, beeches, trident tend to suffer the most from wind and sun burn, which looks like this on the hornbeam
22555163_1519650581433311_7568884026942740087_n.jpg


you get these issues?

Im at ground level but some of my tree's suffer from that too bobby in my case it was probably that the soil was alitle to dry causing the tree not getting enough moisture up to the leaves to keep up with the evaporation of the drying winds
 

BobbyLane

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Im at ground level but some of my tree's suffer from that too bobby in my case it was probably that the soil was alitle to dry causing the tree not getting enough moisture up to the leaves to keep up with the evaporation of the drying winds
i used to think that, thats why all my deciduous are in organics, most are in the kaizen 1 mix and some have added components that retain moisture or chopped spag on the surface. hornbeams seem to suffer the most. the one above is in nursery compost.
 
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