Ah, you don't have Phalaenopsis. I believe you have Dendrobium. Different family of orchids, but by and large, not hard to grow, just a little different. I believe there is a good chance your Dendrobiums (Den for short), are hybrids that include Dendrobium kingianum in the background. This species is native to northern Australia, Queensland. They love a hot, steamy humid & wet summer, with as much sun as possible. And they like a cooler, dryer, winter. What I have done with mine is outside for summer, indoors for winter.
In summer, I put it out in part shade for 2 weeks, then move it to full sun. The foliage should get enough sun that it turns reddish or yellowish. Leave the Dendrobium outside until weather cools, into the low 50's F at night. Let them get a week or two in the lower 50's F to upper 40's at night. Should you accidentally get a light frost don't worry about it. Then bring the Dendrobium inside. Your light garden is bright enough for the winter. During the winter don't worry about temperature or humidity, your current range is just fine. We took care of the need for wide temperature changes while outside.
Here is the trick for the ''hard cane'' type Dendrobium orchids, this works for D. kingianum hybrids and D. nobile hybrids. Look at the top of each new growth for the year. If there is a blunt end of the ''cane'' (pseudobulb) just a little round blunt end, then the cane is fully mature. If there are the beginnings of new leaves, pointy tuft of leaves, then the cane is not mature. This is a little difficult to see with kingianum hybrids, but you can see it.
This is for the newest growths, that have not bloomed yet.
Canes not mature - keep watering exactly as you have been. Sometimes it take 2 years to mature a cane.
Canes mature - you see the end. - time for a dry spell.
If it is time for a dry spell, your plants are big enough you can simply stop watering, just leave them dry until you see signs of flower buds coming, or you see new shoots starting at the base of the plant. This can be a 3 month or 4 month dry spell. Or it can be as little as a couple weeks. The plant will tell you where it is at on its growth cycle.
If you can't stand the idea of letting the Dendrobium go months without water, for D. kingianum hybrids you can give them water maybe once a week. That is wet, to dry, stay dry several days then water. (D. nobile hybrids really need to stay dry)
If you have a mix, where some canes are fully mature but haven't bloomed, and some canes that are not mature yet, still have tufts of leaves. When you are in this situation, the water maybe once a week or so is fine. Personally, I just dry it out and don't water at all. But others have gotten okay results by allow 3 to 7 days bone dry between watering.
Fertilizer. - for best blooming of D. kingianum hybrids, Fertilize from after blooming or when new growth starts in spring, or by the spring Equinox, through to the Summer Solstice - or 4th of July. Then no fertilizer until next spring. Too much fertilizer blocks formation of flower buds. So 3/4's of the year they get no fertilizer.
So those are the tricks I know that will work to trigger blooming in a mature Dendrobium kingianum or nobile hybrid. Dendrobium kingianum is adaptable enough that you don't necessarily have to follow what I suggested to get blooms. But my suggestions will work fairly reliably. The key triggers for blooming once a Dendrobium is healthy enough and mature enough to bloom seem to be # 1.) a dry, or dry-ish spell, #2.) a lack of fertilizer during bud initiation.