Incoming Toyo Nishiki quince

amcoffeegirl

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Nice
I really want a red one but I have no idea where to look.
 

Cadillactaste

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Nice
I really want a red one but I have no idea where to look.
A Texas Scarlett? Regular quince are a common garden center plant up this way.

I will say my husband looks at this one and says it's to big for bonsai and could go in the landscape he's planting next to his garage. 🤦 I tell no lies. Isn't happening. But come fall when it looses some foliage it may pay to find the inner bonsai and shape it more.
 

amcoffeegirl

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I have seen some in the landscape locally.
They might find me knocking on there door soon to ask for some cuttings.
 

Leo in N E Illinois

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Nice
I really want a red one but I have no idea where to look.

Home Depot almost always has 'Double Take Scarlet' - a really nice Proven Winners trademarked double flowered vivid scarlet Chaenomeles. It is a medium size, wider than tall but not a dwarf flowering quince. Growth habit like 'Toyo Nishiki' which means it is winter hardy in the ground in Iowa, depending on your local microclimate, might be winter hardy in a pot in Iowa. Flowers of 'Double Take Scarlet' are very similar to 'Iwai Nishiki'.

And to echo BVF - Evergreen Gardenworks has a whole long list of flowering quince cultivars. The most vivid reds are supposed to be 'Kuro' and 'Kurokoji' . I had 'Kuro' at one time, and the flowers were outstanding, incredible velvet red. Of the dwarfs 'Embers' and 'Hime' are excellent alternatives to the overpriced 'Chojubai', their only fault is that they will not get the corky bark that 'Chojubai' develops at somewhere around 25 to 45 years old. The dwarfs might not be as winter hardy as the larger size cultivars, but they are certainly hardy through zone 6. In a pot will need temperature protection in winter.

If you want something larger than starters, contact Brent at Evergreen by email, he frequently will have a small number of larger sizes that he will make available on request.
 

thumblessprimate1

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amcoffeegirl

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Home Depot almost always has 'Double Take Scarlet' - a really nice Proven Winners trademarked double flowered vivid scarlet Chaenomeles.

Thanks
I did actually buy one of these about a month ago. I love it. I still have no idea what I’m going to do with it. I will try to keep it alive in the pot for now. I may put it in the ground if I can purchase a house this year.
 

pweifan

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Home Depot almost always has 'Double Take Scarlet' - a really nice Proven Winners trademarked double flowered vivid scarlet Chaenomeles. It is a medium size, wider than tall but not a dwarf flowering quince. Growth habit like 'Toyo Nishiki' which means it is winter hardy in the ground in Iowa, depending on your local microclimate, might be winter hardy in a pot in Iowa. Flowers of 'Double Take Scarlet' are very similar to 'Iwai Nishiki'.

And to echo BVF - Evergreen Gardenworks has a whole long list of flowering quince cultivars. The most vivid reds are supposed to be 'Kuro' and 'Kurokoji' . I had 'Kuro' at one time, and the flowers were outstanding, incredible velvet red. Of the dwarfs 'Embers' and 'Hime' are excellent alternatives to the overpriced 'Chojubai', their only fault is that they will not get the corky bark that 'Chojubai' develops at somewhere around 25 to 45 years old. The dwarfs might not be as winter hardy as the larger size cultivars, but they are certainly hardy through zone 6. In a pot will need temperature protection in winter.

If you want something larger than starters, contact Brent at Evergreen by email, he frequently will have a small number of larger sizes that he will make available on request.

You forgot to mention one of the best traits... It's thornless! Mine will occasionally throw a thorn, but not very often.
 

Cadillactaste

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Hey just remembered I never shared my Toyo Nishiki quince...after I slip potted and pruned a bit. (It came with no pot wrapped in plastic and the nursery pot was to wide. And was a temporary fix until I ran to the store. )
IMG_20190704_101413543_HDR.jpg
@thumblessprimate1 thanks again for this piece of material. Love it!
 

Forsoothe!

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I have had a Toyo Nishiki Quince for maybe ten years. Here it is with all the flowers it ever had. My understanding of Quince is that it blooms on the tips of last year's growth, except mine. I'm going to sell this one without explanation.
 

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Cadillactaste

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Grimmy always stated these hated being sprinkler fed where foliage got wet. So I really chewed over what to do with this while on vacation. And chose to leave with my collection. The caregiver...I had told with the substrate I use...it's best to be over watered than under watered. And the heat was high...so he chose to water twice a day to be safe.

No worse for wear...
IMG_20190723_161906881.jpg
 

Cadillactaste

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So the actual trunk to this quince is a very small section. The branching comes off the exposed roots for the most part.

The circled area in questioned. As to which to remove. Or if left the swelling would more thicken the short trunk that is there. This the front...selective pruning so less scars seen would one think? If I removed some.
Screenshot_20200102-102928.png

I wish to keep the longer cascading branch. I believe this is my front.

Thoughts?
IMG_20191209_084540866~2.jpg
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Common pruning is to remove upward and downward facing branches in favor of branches which emerge to the sides. You almost can’t go wrong when you apply this principle.

Alternately, you can create very natural-looking branches over time by keeping the upward facing branches, but wiring them downward. You’d want to apply this technique throughout the tree for good continuity.

Either way, downward facing branches go. In nature, they’re shaded out and are usually weaker, and die back anyway.
 

Cadillactaste

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Common pruning is to remove upward and downward facing branches in favor of branches which emerge to the sides. You almost can’t go wrong when you apply this principle.

Alternately, you can create very natural-looking branches over time by keeping the upward facing branches, but wiring them downward. You’d want to apply this technique throughout the tree for good continuity.

Either way, downward facing branches go. In nature, they’re shaded out and are usually weaker, and die back anyway.
That will help come that area I have circled. Thanks.
 

Cadillactaste

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Well, if you change the planting angle to semi-cascade, I’d be inclined to keep the downward-facing shoot, and the wired shoot, and eliminate the others. It has some taper and movement generally in the right direction.
View attachment 277093
Thanks for the virtual! I am leaning to the angle change. 🥰 Good points always. Appreciate your time and guidance. Again thanks.
 
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