@sorce
I think @0soyoung was suggesting to approach it 0soscientifically, which is in fact my usual approach. I did as many tests this year as I could with cuttings, for example.
at the moment, the problem that I have with 'late-summer repotting' is that none of the individuals who are successfully doing it themselves are in agreement about the procedure, purpose, or its limitations, as @Brian Van Fleet highlighted above. It is not as though they disagree trivially about what soil to use during a late-summer repotting. Rather, they disagree fundamentally about its purpose, and about what can be done to the roots of the tree. For this reason, it stands out to me that nobody is really addressing the development stages head on, which is what concerns most of us!
I attached 3 photos, as examples of 3 hypothetical 'stages' of nebari development. I'm going to use maples because that's what I know.
regardless of the species, a lot of us have trees in between stages 1 and 2, and want to get to something like stage 3. If somebody wants to get to stage 3, should one repot in late summer for the tree's entire life starting from stage 1? If the answer is yes, should we follow @Walter Pall and avoid pruning a single root; OR, can we do major work like a few others are suggesting? Yes, I get that I can test and see what works for me, but see the bigger issue, below.
As I explained before (see link below), @Walter Pall has repeatedly presented his version of late summer repotting in opposition to "maintream thinking", the "bonsai world", or what "some japanese gardener" does. But does late-summer repotting actually replace spring repotting? Walter Pall keeps saying it does, but he has yet to explain how one gets from stage 1 to stage 3 by repotting in late summer and not touching the roots! Walter just usually starts at stage 3.
In the absence of such an explanation, it looks a lot like 'late-summer repotting' does not oppose or replace spring repotting. Rather, 'late-summer repotting' is best used after several decades of 'maintream repotting'.
With very few exceptions, nobody on this forum has trees as developed as Walter's. If we all start late-summer repotting and stop touching the roots like @Walter Pall implies when he sets late-summer repotting in opposition to spring repotting, the quality bonsai is going to decline very quickly except for those of us starting with 60 year old maples and 100 year old yamadori... unless somebody can explain how one gets from stage 1 to stage 3 by repotting in late summer without ever touching the roots...
European Hornbeam #13
I almost never bareroot anything. I try to repot only when I really have to. When I repot I try to disturb the root ball as little as possible. This applies to trees in all stages of development. There are hundreds of pictures on the net where I work with very raw material in a very similar...www.bonsainut.com
All i know for sure about summer repotting is that it's "better" . . . LOL
What do you think about late summer collecting from nature? I have an opportunity to dig up two or three nice oaks (quercus robur/quercus petraea) and a field maple (acer campestre) in next few weeks. The trees are 15 + years old imo. My climate is not much different from Walter's climate, so maybe i could try at least with one of these trees, the one with biggest canopy? I mean if you (Walter) believe that late summer is best time for repotting, what do you think about late summer collecting then?
Maybe you found the timing sweet-spot, maybe you’re lucky, maybe what you’re doing isn’t really a beneficial repot that will ultimately lead to an improved root system. So, what do you think is the secret to your success? You said you don’t come here to teach, but to discuss serious things. So let’s discuss it.
6000 trees doesn’t mean everything everywhere. Brussel’s Bonsai likely handles 6000+ trees a year, and their soil sucks everywhere outside their nursery; right for them, wrong for everyone else. Just like repotting a Spruce in August right for you, it’s wrong for me in Alabama: first, the heat would roast the tree; second, I want a good nebari, which requires pruning and arranging roots; and third, if I do the right work in March, I can change the soil, trim and arrange the roots, not risk the health of the tree, and certainly make it a full year so as to not require a “late summer repot” in the future. So this is why I would not be dumb enough to risk it.
that's exactly how i feel right now @Brian Van Fleet !
every time the topic comes up, things get more confusing instead of clearer! i really enjoy the comfort and risk-free nature of early spring repots. Right now, the information about late summer repotting is full of gaps and looks very disorganized to my mind. All i know for sure about summer repotting is that it's "better" . . . LOL
So, in a tiny swath of Europe and NA, if the weather is mild, the tree is strong, and you don’t cut any roots or branches at all, it is possible to change soil only on some trees?
Why risk it, when a proper repotting performed in the spring shouldn’t necessitate a late summer repotting?
Traditionally, it is necessary to trim roots, especially if a good nebari is desired, or when working a tree into a smaller pot.
Um, well, not really. Depends on species, conditions, etc. The summer collection thing was first done, if I'm not mistaken, in the U.K. with English oak. Summer in the U.K, ain't summer in say, Georgia, Texas, or heck even Illinois.Oaks are noted to be better collected in summer.
Sorce
We will be hitting upper 90s and 100s for the next few weeks. It is late summer for others but we have just started.Um, well, not really. Depends on species, conditions, etc. The summer collection thing was first done, if I'm not mistaken, in the U.K. with English oak. Summer in the U.K, ain't summer in say, Georgia, Texas, or heck even Illinois.
In Michigan, August often brings a pleasant break in the weather, sometimes early, sometimes late. It changes from hot and sometimes dry to just nice. It begins the Pinky mushroom season if accompanied by rain. The Euonymus Burning Bush begins to evolve red. It begins the long season of hardening off. Very different from TX. Add to that the factors which are dependent upon the individual's micro-climate and our own habits in care of our trees and it's absolutely pivotal in how we interpret and apply advice from a German guy or some Japanese gardener.We will be hitting upper 90s and 100s for the next few weeks. It is late summer for others but we have just started.
One thing I learnt is to not taking anything anyone said without taking your environment into consideration. Back to it all depends.....
Sorry, I do not know who you are, nor what you have done bonsai-wise in your life. I do however know who Walter is, and what he has done. Who are you to claim that he owes you an explanation. He after all, states very clearly:it sounds more like you don't have one
And you do realize that there is a search function on this forum and on the internet? you often present your view, whether about soil, pruning, repotting, etc. as though it were in direct opposition to 'traditional' or 'japanese' ideas. At this point, whenever somebody reads "forget everything you know about..." they must inevitably hear your voice in their head!
Why would I do it on August 4? The answer can only be that it is the very best day for that tree in my experience.
Wow. Ok, so we can't ask questions--just stare in awe of your creations?you did it again, badmouth me and misquote me. Where did I say that late summer repotting is better for the whole world? if anything I said that it is better for me.
All my caveats are for the idiots who are around in the bonsai world. They will not really read, rip out trees in June and July, repot whenever they feel, misquote and badmouth me. And they will kill trees and blame me. Never underestimate the idiocy of folks.
I do NOT come here to educate people. I show what I do and you can do with this what you like. You can discuss this, but not with me. I do not owe anybody any explanation. And I will keep getting the best trees I can even if some explode of envy.
Post # 32?the outright attacks (and there are none in this thread)
He doesn’t say we can’t ask questions. In fact WP has answered the majority of mine. The questions just need to well worded, intelligent and specific with the answers not being easily found on the internet. I have noticed that most questions that can be answered with seeing the details and deductive reasoning get dismissed.Wow. Ok, so we can't ask questions--just stare in awe of your creations?
Isn't questioning how you began your journey in bonsai?
Flatly stating you owe nobody anything is plain wrong. YOU benefitted from enormous input from others over the years. I understand your aversion to posting anything. Ive seen the idiots who called you names and questioned your basic abilities--It sucked. Move on. Everyone is not out to get you. Many just want to hear details, whys, etc.
By the way, the outright attacks (and there are none in this thread) happento ALL OF US who have been doing this for any amount of time.
There’s no big secret there: if your climate is not extreme in the summer (you seem to suggest Alabama climate is, I wouldn’t know), you have another window to repot in the second half of the summer because that is the period of year where there is maximum root growth, not spring. This is obviously much safer with species that do not transpire as fast (conifers) as others (deciduous) - and also why wet, overcast conditions are better. Conifers also have that new, super efficient foliage to power root growth once it hardens somewhere in June/July for most people, whereas deciduous trees have been in full photosynthesis mode for a few months now so nothing new for them right now.
This very forum is full of people in different parts of NA and Europe who have done summer repottings with a variety of conifers, often removing half or more of the rootball, with a high level of success. Late summer/early fall collecting of conifers is also very much a thing here, and some people swear that spruce, for ex., should never be collected in the spring. Randy Knight also says that from his experience, his success rate is much higher when he collects spruce later in the season (from a Mirai stream from this spring).
WP’s techniques, if you properly understand the caveats that he often repeats, are applicable to a whole lot of people in both Europe and North America (and maybe even places like NZ). Anything around Pennsylvania and north, something like that? That’s the whole of New England + the Midwest + Canada... that’s a lot of people. In Europe, UK + Scandivania + the northern part of continental Europe? That’s a lot of people. A whole lot of people whose climate doesn’t bear much resemblance to that of the warmer parts of Japan, where those bonsai technical norms come from.
Derek, you’re a deciduous guy, I think there’s no reason to move repotting of a deciduous tree from spring at budbreak to late summer (unless you have a dire emergency, like a broken container or an uplifted tree). WP does it with super established maples as you know, but only with very minor disturbance to the roots. (An aside: spring repottings are never risk-free either if you do not have a controlled environment for newly repotted trees. This spring has been a killer for me, I repotted a few (deciduous) shrubs from nursery containers to substrate in early April and I lost half of them, mostly because - aside from potential technical shortcomings - I think we got way too much rain and too little sun/heat to really kickstart their recovery in April, May and early June.)
However, conifers, which do not transpire nearly as much as a deciduous in full leaf, are much better candidates for late summer repottings in our climate. This week’s forecast is actually perfect to repot a spruce, for ex (not to mention a mugo, that’s been very well-established at this point). Real hard repotting, like removing a fair amount of roots, not just gently reorganizing roots in a different container.
Post # 32?
Walter can't distinguish between 'being asked questions', and 'being questioned'
good post. i would just like to add, ive been experimenting with out of season repotting for a while now, for my own convenience . this year alone ive re potted and root pruned hornbeam in the month of june and i did two maples last month. the hornbeams went into fairly large training pots, quite a big down scale from the air pots they were in. the maples went from plastic bonsai pots to slightly smaller shohin ceramic pots. ive never lost a deciduous tree from repotting it in leaf, but i have seen the inevitable transpiration on a few leaves, the extent depends on how much root was removed. what i always find is, branches never die off, and the leaves lost through moisture loss usually are replaced by fresh growth in a matter of 2-3 weeks. so not much different really than if one had partially defoliated.
the maples that were re potted at the start of july were sold three weeks after, lost the odd leaf here n there but nothing major, as we know a healthy tree will replace lost or damaged leaves in a matter of weeks. they were healthy enough to be sold 3 weeks after july repotting. i sold Conardash a large hornbeam that had the bottom half of its rootball removed with a saw in june. he purchased the tree in july and its now growing like mad in his back yard. the odd leaf was lost through transpiration but nothing for me to be alarmed about.
its good to experiment, ive lost a few yews by normal procedure. i repotted one a couple days ago so will see how that gets on. but what ive learned, is that i can literally re pot or root prune a tree anytime i want, ive gotten to a stage where im beginning to understand the pain threshold, how much can a tree take at any given time.
People will still argue with this older gaurd, but I haven't seen it without respect.