Can someone clarify this please?

Danteswake

Yamadori
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Location
Central Florida West Coast
USDA Zone
9b-
Bought this untagged months ago. Thought I knew what it was but it seems to be borderline 5 things. I cut it back hard, encouraged curves, dont recall it being a straight up grower. Almost blueish tips. Brown die back from base but also back buds nicely. Bark says cedar to me. Please someone help. 20200907_115852.jpg
 
Bought this untagged months ago. Thought I knew what it was but it seems to be borderline 5 things. I cut it back hard, encouraged curves, dont recall it being a straight up grower. Almost blueish tips. Brown die back from base but also back buds nicely. Bark says cedar to me. Please someone help. View attachment 327625

I’m not certain of identification.. but I do LOVE this!
 
Looks like one ‘dem Sequoias

But I have NO real idea, I’m bad at this game.

🤓
 
I know it looks a bit crazy style wise but I have a vision for it. Ive been treating it like a cedar which would also explain the rust, yet it just keeps growing. This one wont be done by the rules, its gonna be a wild one.
 
Going with that thought, have any suggestions to reduce the die back? Weird how a tree can be so strong on the tips yet browning at the bases of the branches. Ive seen so many possibilities, but would appreciate experienced advice.
 
The browning at the base of a stem/twig/branch is just part of the evolution to bark. It doesn't become bark, it is just the oldest stage of the scale that will fall off, and that's life. Don't mess with it or you will break more stems than you liberate. The solution is to do enough tip pulling and cutting back to induce growth thick enough to hide, if that's the word, to lower, inner stems. The amount of back-budding you can get is a function of time. Long bare branches = long time to drive the foliage back. On what I see above, you better be a young man. There is a solution: Buy tree stock that has foliage close to the trunk, or where you want it. Part of the bonsai education is Shopping 100, buying the inside view instead of the view of the outside. An experienced bonsaiist looks for healthy foliage and then spends the rest of his time looking under the lady's skirt. That's where the action is. Start with her feet. Big feet are good down on the farm walking on soft, newly plowed soil, and wide feet and wide nebari wins by a wide margin. The first couple inches of the trunk either has heft to it or not. Stocky legs are much more desirable than skinny legs. Movement in the trunk is wonderful and very individual. Some have something nice to look at with curves in all the right places and some don't. If they don't you have to ask yourself, "Self, can I put some action here, or am I doomed to accept her as is?" In conjunction with movement is the first three branches. The movement does not stand alone. If it is within the profile of the first three branches, it counts. If it is too high or too low for your prospective design, then a decision is called for.

You have to have designs in mind while you are looking under her skirt, before you pay for her. Sounds crass, but this is a practical relationship you are hunting. You can't change the quality of the pelt after you have paid for her. You're shopping at nurseries, but you don't want a young one that's just pretty skin-deep. If you can find one artificially aged by too much contact with life, handled or mishandled by too many to count, and with the scars to prove it, that's your candidate. If she's cheap, all the better, but don't limit yourself to just cheap because there are some that have been around the block a few more times and are worth more.

Too often, people start bonsai trying to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear. Eventually, they learn how to shop for silk.
 
Plant tags, this is the reason they are important. Had you labelled the plant, with a plant tag, when you knew what it was, it would not be the puzzle it is now.

I prefer to write on plastic tags with pencil. It does not fade as rapidly as magic marker.

Most likely you have juniper, genus Juniperus. The second photo looks a little like Cypress, not bald cypress but genus Cupressus cypress. There is an outside chance that it is Sequoiadendron, but I think that is quite unlikely.

So not being able to see any of these in person, my best guess is they are all Juniperus species, or Junipers for their common name. The very first photo could be Juniperus virginiana, also called the Eastern Red Cedar. Can you see how common names are misleading? Juniperus virginiana is not at all related to the true cedars, genus Cedrus, but its wood smells a little like Cedrus, so its common name stuck. Once was a popular wood to use for interior panels of dressers, chest of drawers and coffins.
 
This thread has been on my mind almost daily but just have been working so much, I havent had time to ask for further direction. Going with Juniperus Virginia which I believe is correct, and the tipping and cutting back idea. Anyone have a video or thread to suggest? The tips remain vigorous, in some places too much. Ive seen in the past there is some debate on which is best and / or both. My thought for this is to be a unique style in a sweet pot? Shape of pot unknown. But its overgrowing my plan. Which im glad its healthy, but if I cut back to the bud backs I loose the curves I have. Is that just part of the risk, almost starting over?
 
Plant tags, this is the reason they are important. Had you labelled the plant, with a plant tag, when you knew what it was, it would not be the puzzle it is now.

I prefer to write on plastic tags with pencil. It does not fade as rapidly as magic marker.
I concur wholeheartedly with this. I have also sometimes buried another plant tag in the pot in case the other is lost or if I just don't want to see the tag.
 
My point is when I bought it, they could not identify it exactly because it was not tagged, hence the reason I was asking for clarification. While im at it, I always see a sacrificial first branch to the left or right. Ive got one growing straight up to fatten up the base. Any thoughts on that as well?
 
Juniperus chinensis 'San Jose'. It had matured to the point of showing the stringy scale foliage, then reverted to juvenile foliate most likely following pruning. Look after that little shoot at the base, it could be really important to any future design. For pruning, follow Hagedorn's advice for scale junipers https://crataegus.com/2012/08/26/how-to-pinch-junipers/ , it's especially important with this cultivar to avoid dieback of shoots.
 
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