Issue with Green Japanese Maple

[CT Yankee]

I purchased this tree in the fall of last year and let it sit in the container on my enclosed porch over the winter. It began to leaf out early last month and everything was going fine until last week when I discovered leaves that were dying. I don't know if it's under or over watering or if it's something else, any help or ideas would be appreciated. For additional info the tree is the subject of an air layer experiment where the main trunk and several (3) branches have air layering pods attached, maybe I did something wrong there...

 

[Pitoon]

You growing that tree in the dark? That's some extremely long internodes there.

 

[CT Yankee]

You growing that tree in the dark? That's some extremely long internodes there.

No, I haven't done anything to it since I got it. I didn't want to do anything to mess with it before I tried the air layer.

 

[DanaWhicker]

How old and large is this tree?

How much sun is the tree getting?

Pics of the air layer project?

 

[Shibui]

If the soil has been always wet the problem is not underwatering.
If the soil has been dry the problem is probably not overwatering.
If the wilted leaves are localized then watering is less likely to be the cause.
If the wilted leaves are above a layer and branches that are not layered are OK then the layer is almost certainly the problem.

Without knowing much more about your watering habits, where the layers are, whether the problem is confined to one section or general over the entire tree and what's going on below that area/areas it is almost impossible to guess at the real problem.

 

[ajm55555]

You growing that tree in the dark? That's some extremely long internodes there.

I agree. This tree is stretching for light. Lack of light is evident from the long internodes and thin branches. Slowly transition it to a place where it can get more light.
Remember also that JMs cannot grow inside all year. They need to feel the season changes.

 

[CT Yankee]

I usually check by digging my fingers into the soil. If the top couple of inches are wet I don't water if dry I do. I did start keeping the container in a tray with water after I moved the tree outside a week or so ago. At the time we had 60 and 70 degree weather, regretfully that changed over the weekend and we went back to 30's with 20 MPH + wind gusts. The tree is back on the enclosed porch until things calm down again. I understand the tree needs some serious cutting back but the plan was to get to that after separating the air layers out. I've added a few more pictures for context. The tree was found at Home Depot in Sept. of last year all beat up and laying on the ground. I figured for $12 it was worth experimenting with.

Dana, I can't say for sure how old the tree is, maybe 5 years. It's about 5 feet tall but the plan is to make it considerably shorter and to get some smaller "trees" from the current branches. With a little luck the main trunk will survive after the air layer and maybe I can get something from it next year, there is one branch under the pod. I was expecting this take a few years to actually see any real progress.

 

[hemmy]

It began to leaf out early last month and everything was going fine until last week when I discovered leaves that were dying

The damaged leaves appear wilted. Could they have froze or been against a cold window with freezing outside temps? If not, maybe pathogenic wilt? Bacterial or fungal. I’d prune the damaged leaves off and dispose in trash. Clean your tools.
If you suspect root issues from over saturation and low oxygen, maybe water with a solution of water and hydrogen peroxide. There are several garden sites with the recommended percentage.

 

[CT Yankee]

Thanks hemmy, the first damage leaves I noticed were up against the tarp on the porch which was next to the cold window so that may have started things. Once outside the nights got into the upper 30's low 40's so that may have contributed. Once the wind kicked up over the weekend I think that may have damaged some of them as well. I'll be pruning all the bad ones off and I'll go from there.

 

[Stweed]

It could be because you’re layering while layering. Generally from what I’ve read you shouldn’t air layer above another section you’re air layering.
I also live in CT and have green Japanese maples purchased from Home Depot. I leave them outside all year and they do really well. In winter I put them on the ground in mulch but bring them out in March.
Good luck!

 

[CT Yankee]

It was my understanding that as long as you're not air layering twice on the same branch / trunk that it's OK. I've seen Corin (Greenwood Bonsai) and Peter (Herons Bonsai) have multiple air layers, I figured it was worth a shot since the branches would be coming off any way.
Have you got any cut down to bonsai size Stweed?

 

[Stweed]

I did one two years ago and it’s doing well! I’m going to layer the one I picked up last fall in the next few weeks. I think they’re great to learn on. I’ve really enjoyed mine! I did run into some problems last fall with over watering when we had those heavy rains but otherwise (fortunately) they’ve been problem free

 

[TN_Jim]

would have waited till ~June first for airlayer, possibly later in Connecticut…thoughts?

 

[Stweed]

When I did mine last time I started it the third week of April and severed it end of June. I’m by the shore though so zone 6b/7a

 

[TN_Jim]

When I did mine last time I started it the third week of April and severed it end of June. I’m by the shore though so zone 6b/7a

sounds good, eager here, did you use a sign like leaves loose delicacy (gain cuticle) or weather or such??

 

[CT Yankee]

would have waited till ~June first for airlayer, possibly later in Connecticut…thoughts?

I wanted at least 10 - 12 weeks for root development plus I wanted time for the tree to be able to stabilize after the "harvest" (8 weeks minimum) before it went dormant. I didn't want everything to go right and not have a good amount of time for the tree to take hold before winter sleepy time. It's an experiment, I may find out I'm a dumb a$$. Of course everything may turn out great and next spring I have a couple of pretty little pre bonsai but I'm still a dumb a$$. I'm in central CT so I don't have the nice shoreline weather.

 

[Shibui]

Layers above layers is OK provided each has some healthy growth feeding it. The arrangement shown is good.
The symptoms in the leaves shown appear to be different and I think the background info confirms there's several different causes.
Older, lower leaves have probably been affected by cold. The upper shrivelled leaves look more dehydrated and are probably the result of the winds. Japanese maples do not do well with warm winds.
The tree will recover from both problems without any special help but if you don't like the damaged leaves they can be cut off. Remember that the more green leaves above a layer the quicker it will root so removing green leaves will slow progress, even if those leaves are half damaged. Fully dead leaves obviously are not contributing anything so can be removed without affecting the tree.

Don't be surprised if the layers are not as good as expected. Healthy, vigorous growth means better results and it appears that conditions have not been great for this tree so far.

 

[TN_Jim]

I wanted at least 10 - 12 weeks for root development plus I wanted time for the tree to be able to stabilize after the "harvest" (8 weeks minimum) before it went dormant. I didn't want everything to go right and not have a good amount of time for the tree to take hold before winter sleepy time. It's an experiment, I may find out I'm a dumb a$$. Of course everything may turn out great and next spring I have a couple of pretty little pre bonsai but I'm still a dumb a$$. I'm in central CT so I don't have the nice shoreline weather.

seems like I’ve heard air layers overwinter well, sometimes for years.. wonder thoughts on this, especially in the varying east US climate or such elsewhere..

there is a thread of gold here - the science of air layering , that may address this…?

 

[CT Yankee]

Layers above layers is OK provided each has some healthy growth feeding it. The arrangement shown is good.
The symptoms in the leaves shown appear to be different and I think the background info confirms there's several different causes.
Older, lower leaves have probably been affected by cold. The upper shrivelled leaves look more dehydrated and are probably the result of the winds. Japanese maples do not do well with warm winds.
The tree will recover from both problems without any special help but if you don't like the damaged leaves they can be cut off. Remember that the more green leaves above a layer the quicker it will root so removing green leaves will slow progress, even if those leaves are half damaged. Fully dead leaves obviously are not contributing anything so can be removed without affecting the tree.

Don't be surprised if the layers are not as good as expected. Healthy, vigorous growth means better results and it appears that conditions have not been great for this tree so far.

There's plenty of good foliage to work with even after trimming the damaged leaves and I think once I can get the tree outside in good weather it should increase vigor. Hope for the best, plan for the worst, that's why I tried to build in extra time. If the new roots aren't what I'd hoped at the end of June I can always give them a little more time...

 

[Stweed]

sounds good, eager here, did you use a sign like leaves loose delicacy (gain cuticle) or weather or such??

I waited for the tree to leaf out and start to put on some growth. I think it was a pretty warm spring too but honestly I was just excited to try air layering this year I’m waiting for the leaves to loose delicacy before cutting in. Should be the first week of May