I'm gonna make brooms.

Adair M

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The tree was documented in a Japanese language bonsai magazine. It showed the progress over the years. Grafted several times, and the roots were trained by nailing the trunk to a board, then spreading the roots out, and controlling them with nails in the board. (I did the same with my zelkova, and I documented it in one of these threads... maybe earlier in this one!)

Edit: Yep. See post number 6.
 

cmeg1

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I don't know if this is done very often with deciduous (in most cases I don't think it's necessary)...but would it possibly help solve "one sided" root problems to make cuttings out of the fresh seedlings like you would with pine seedlings? I tried this with a Japanese maple seedling, put it in a small orchid pot with fast draining mix, and ended up with a very fine root system all the way around.
hello,Dan.Turning the zelkova seedling into somewhat of a cutting after first two leaves stabilize was actually recommended in the Bonsai Today#71 article that I got this 'from seed' method.I tried it and did not have good results,as they shriveled up in about 5 minutes.Maybe they need to be kept in shade when you cut the tap root of the young sprouts.
 

Fangorn

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I've had great results getting radial roots by attaching a hose clamp to the trunk then planting the tree back in the ground for a year or two
clamp1.jpg
 

cmeg1

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I snapped a picture of a zelkova when I was at work today.It is with many others in the grocery store parking lot.I actually like them as they remind me of the zelkova I am growing.I see these zelkova all the time(once a week) through the changing seasons.I especially like these ones cause' they have a pretty nice leaf form compared to other ones I have seen.
 

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milehigh_7

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My first broom try

Just removed the raffia, put on a hose clamp and tied my branches for the winter on my little broom attempt.

First pic was how I bought it on April 28th 2012. The top was literally exploding with shoots.
IMG_20120430_184453.jpg

Today after work was done:
100_0389.JPG
 

Adair M

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Next spring, cut all the branches off about an inch below where you have that green wire bunching them all together.

Then bare root it, and cut off all roots going down. Keep radial roots. Cut the bottom off flat. Attach it to a piece of plywood. Use a screw up from the bottom. Spread the roots out over the plywood. Use nails to distribute the roots evenly across the plywood. Plant the whole thing in a flat pot/container.

Repeat annually for the next 10 years!
 

cmeg1

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Well,I have the seedlings wrapped up.Hope I did not rub all the buds off!:mad:Naa seriously,Them buds can probably take it.The branches were pretty stiff.It took me about 20 minutes to do the three of them.
 

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Adair M

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Wait a couple of weeks, and do it again, tighter.

Looks good!
 

cmeg1

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Well,here we are 3 months later.Thought I would update.They did not turn out too bad,I actually like them.I am relieved to see the buds swelled a bit and there looks to be enough to make the start of a silouette and then probably de-foliate the outer leaves at some point.I was thinking that if the nebari starts to bother me,in the future,I may try a wire turniquit or similiar method to make a better root-spread.I should have about 20 of these next spring.
 

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cmeg1

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Have you considered a more "root-advantageous" pot like a colander or pond basket instead of a bonsai pot?
Well,I ordered the wrong size bonsai pot's this year.I am shipping them back and I have ordered 20 of the 8" colanders to plant this years seedlings into.I know I will definately get some instantly fibrous root systems.We will see if they are more radial around the trunks this time.
 

akhater

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Hello,

is the method you are following documented anywhere online ? I tried to follow the sequence of the pictures but it is not very clear to me what you are doing in each.

I am interested in a similar project but to books you are stating are not available in my part of the world

thanks
 

cmeg1

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First year technique is quite simple.
-Sprout from seed in complete shade so they grow leggy and have unusually long trunks,deep shade.
-When first two true leaves stabilize,transplant to a grow pot and put in sun/part-sun.
-When they split in the -V- shape,which occurs naturally,let each side grow to 5-7 leaves,then cut back to 4 leaves.(each stem).
-If one side of the -V- is weaker,it don't matter,just start trimming the other side(as explained below) while the weak side catches up to 5-7 leaves.
-After you cut back to 4 leaves,cut the top-most 4th leaf leaving 1/3 of the leaf,cut the 3rd leaf leaving 1/2 of the leaf,cut the 2nd leaf leaving 2/3 of the leaf ,and leave the bottom leaf whole.(each stem)
-Remove 1 of any opposed leaves pointing at each other and clashing from different stems.
-Repeat this process of cutting and restraining leaves all season(just keep repeating these steps).They keep sprouting.
-In winter,tie up the branches with the ribbon and cut off to appropriate height(the trunk should be 1/3 of eventual tree height).
-Done.
This whole technique is to be done in first season only.I left the pictures of their first growing season.REMEMBER, sprout from seed in deep shade so they get unusually long before the first two leaves stabilize.Untie the ribbon the following Spring when you bring them out.
Have fun.Hope this helped you.*Plant seed with sharp end and root sticking out straight down*for straight trunk.
 

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tmmason10

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You've done well with these, I can't wait to see what they loo like after another growing season.
 

cmeg1

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Concerning the deep shade I mentioned to sprout the seedlings in to get the favorable long trunk with this method,I thought I would post what is working for me with this years crop of brooms.
First of all,don't sew the seed unless you see the root tip poking out of it.If it's not poking out,you have a bad batch of seed.
Then sew them in a propogater.I water them once after sowing then set outside uncovered to dry down to an acceptable moisture level,then I put the propogater lid back on and bring them into my home.
I then leave them in the propogater and set on the floor under a SHADED window with the blinds opened to the 'level' position so the available light shoots over them and not directly on them.This makes the growth essentially more leggy and you get a much more favorable long trunk.
The trick is to not water them again cause' the sprouts cannot and will not use a lot of water.I just keep the propogater cover on them to keep the humidity high cause' the house is too dry.
Here is one weeks progress after germination.They are about 4" tall.I want longer trunks on this years crop so I will see what the next week brings.The warmth of the house is like having bottom heat as long as they are covered and safe in the propogater.You can also start them earlier.
When they have stretched to the right heighth and the first true leaves stabilize is the right time to put outside in the sun.You will need a shelter from rain for the first month cause' they will fall over in the mud.Possibly very light protection from sun too.You can cut out the top of the propogater with a utility knife and leave the sides, after outside, and that will provide enough wind protection.They sprout into the 'V' naturally after the first four leaves stabilize for a bit.
It is possible to let these stretch very long with the aid of thin wire to stake them up whilst in the propogater ,indoor phase,actually quite longer than the photo below.Just don't be tempted to water them when in your home in the propogater,unless you can keep out side for a few hours during the day in shade to dry down to acceptable moisture.Then bring back in.The humidity is enough in the closed propogater.
 

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cmeg1

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Gave the second season ones a haircut today.We will see how many more before I defoliate the large outer leaves in early summer.I tried to envision a silhouette and ended up cutting back to 2-4 leaves.
 

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lackhand

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Thanks for the updates on these. I like to grow things from seed too, and it's nice to see the progress. A couple years of ramification building will make some really nice trees. Rock on!
 
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