When to repot Azalea (George L Tabor - NOT satsuki)?

Poink88 · Feb 10, 2014

I collected a large (clump) George L Tabor (an indica) about 1.5 years ago and wanted to repot & separate/divide it. Seems very hardy since it survived TX summer collection (106*F here when it was collected).

When is the optimal time to do it? If I can, I also want to see it bloom first before the repot but not sure if it is wise. Tips looks like forming some flower buds already. All references I find is mostly about Satsuki and not sure if same schedule applies.

Any input is appreciated. Thank you.

Dav4 · Feb 10, 2014

Generally speaking, the optimal time to repot any tree is just as the spring cycle of vegetative growth is beginning. With satsuki, they start pushing leaves before the flower buds open and that's when I repot. The flowers will still open but they last fewer days. Some advise flower removal during a repotting year, but I think you can leave a fair amount to get an idea on what the flowers are like, then remove immediately after peak. I'm not familiar with the particular azalea you have, but I would suggest looking for foliage buds moving and repot then, and enjoy the flowers when they open, either before or after the repot. My 2 cents.

Poink88 · Feb 10, 2014

Dav4 said:
Generally speaking, the optimal time to repot any tree is just as the spring cycle of vegetative growth is beginning. With satsuki, they start pushing leaves before the flower buds open and that's when I repot. The flowers will still open but they last fewer days. Some advise flower removal during a repotting year, but I think you can leave a fair amount to get an idea on what the flowers are like, then remove immediately after peak. I'm not familiar with the particular azalea you have, but I would suggest looking for foliage buds moving and repot then, and enjoy the flowers when they open, either before or after the repot. My 2 cents.

Thanks. I can live with just a few flowers. Just want to see it on this/my plant.

If you haven't seen GL Tabor, do a google search they are HUGE!!!
https://www.google.com/search?q=geo...nWyQG594DgCQ&ved=0CAsQ_AUoAw&biw=1280&bih=852
Pretty for landscape but not suitable for bonsai.

Oh well...it is free so can't complain.

GrimLore · Feb 10, 2014

Honest they have a small shallow root system and I as well as many others here repot/transplant them any time of year. I have both deciduous and evergreen and both do well. I have been told to keep the root ball intact and undisturbed so that's what we do and it works for us.

That is referring to outdoor transplants and I will follow the same path for my newer indoor plants I have been adding recently.

Grimmy

Beng · Feb 10, 2014

With satsuki and kurume you should only let your tree flower every few years. In Japan they let their trees flower every 3-5 years, this keeps the tree vigorous. Here in the US people tend to let theirsi flower every year that's probably one of the reasons why we don't have many impressive satsuki here. It's detrimental to the tree over a long period of time. On the east coast I've repotted both early spring and after a flowering cycle with success. Here in Southern California I'm told early spring as leaves are moving is the only time that works well cause it gets so hot. Since your in Texas I'd go with early spring as well. If you repot you should remove all but one or two buds. I always leave one or two at the base of the tree so that I can enjoy what the tree will bring the next time I let it flower in full. Satsukis are basaly dominant. I don't know about your specific variety so all of this could be irrelevant.

Poink88 · Feb 10, 2014

GrimLore said:
Honest they have a small shallow root system and I as well as many others here repot/transplant them any time of year. I have both deciduous and evergreen and both do well. I have been told to keep the root ball intact and undisturbed so that's what we do and it works for us.

That is referring to outdoor transplants and I will follow the same path for my newer indoor plants I have been adding recently.

Grimmy

Grim,

Mine have heavy root system and need to be reduced further back 4 inches if I want it to go into a bonsai pot. Minimal root disturbance is not an option until it is fully reduced (plus the separation). I can reduce it down slowly and may take a few years. A faster option is to do exposed root on it or a compromise in between.

Thanks!

Poink88 · Feb 10, 2014

Beng said:
With satsuki and kurune you should only let your tree flower every few years. In Japan they let their trees flower every 3-5 years, this keeps the tree vigorous. Here in the US people tend to let theirsi flower every year that's probably one of the reasons why we don't have many impressive satsuki here. It's detrimental to the tree over a long period of time. On the east coast I've repotted both early spring and after a flowering cycle with success. Here in Southern California I'm told early spring as leaves are moving is the only time that works well cause it gets so hot. Since your in Texas I'd go with early spring as well. If you repot you should remove all but one or two buds. I always leave one or two at the base of the tree so that I can enjoy what the tree will bring the next time I let it flower in full. Satsukis are basaly dominant. I don't know about your specific variety so all of this could be irrelevant.

Thanks! I will try that. If I see one or two flowers this year then that would be just a bonus.

GrimLore · Feb 10, 2014

Poink88 said:
Grim,

Mine have heavy root system and need to be reduced further back 4 inches if I want it to go into a bonsai pot. Minimal root disturbance is not an option until it is fully reduced (plus the separation). I can reduce it down slowly and may take a few years. A faster option is to do exposed root on it or a compromise in between.

Thanks!

Once again, our clay here soil determines what we do and why

Grimmy

jkd2572 · Feb 10, 2014

Didn't we just have a thread and everybody said to always let them bloom every year that's what they do. Still confused about what to do this spring. It my 2nd year with the tree in my aviator and it needs a repot this year and will get it. Just still trying to determine if I should remove most of the flower buds or not......... I got a good deal on this tree and to replace it would be 4 times what I paid for it. At that price I would not be able to replace it. The price i paid was at my high end. I got from a guy leaving the country and seemed to just want good homes for his trees. That being said I am trying to figure out what to do with the flowers on a tree I will probably never be able to replace if it goes wrong.

Dav4 · Feb 10, 2014

jkd2572 said:
Didn't we just have a thread and everybody said to always let them bloom every year that's what they do. Still confused about what to do this spring. It my 2nd year with the tree in my aviator and it needs a repot this year and will get it. Just still trying to determine if I should remove most of the flower buds or not......... I got a good deal on this tree and to replace it would be 4 times what I paid for it. At that price I would not be able to replace it. The price i paid was at my high end. I got from a guy leaving the country and seemed to just want good homes for his trees. That being said I am trying to figure out what to do with the flowers on a tree I will probably never be able to replace if it goes wrong.

Personally, I don't think it matters. The Japanese ( and those who were taught in Japan) always recommend not letting azaleas flower yearly for the fear of weakening the tree, but physiologically, it doesn't make sense to me as the vast majority of energy invested in the flowering process has already been spent producing the flower bud. I do believe leaving the tree in full flower for weeks on end is a bad idea as the tree can't photosynthesize with all its foliage covered with flowers. I don't plan on showing my azalea this year, so my plan is to let it flower and remove each flower a few days after they open. That's my story and I'm sticking to it

.

GrimLore · Feb 11, 2014

I clip mine after 2-3 days of bloom and tell my Wife they whither like Hibiscus so she does not tell me not to. I don't know if it helps the plant at all but just a habit I have with a few plants. Somewhere along the path I was told it is letting seeds develop that affects the next seasons bloom not the blooming itself.

Grimmy

Poink88 · Feb 25, 2014

My azalea (another free Craigslist find)

As collected on 06/25/2012.

A year later (07/28/2013).

Last weekend (02/25/2014)...it got divided into 3 (sorry 3rd don't have a pic yet)

GrimLore · Feb 26, 2014

Wow! I have several "tiny" scheduled for potting and first styling soon(hopefully). As I type this it is snowing again, grrrrrrrrrrrrr

Grimmy

Poink88 · Feb 26, 2014

GrimLore said:
Wow! I have several "tiny" scheduled for potting and first styling soon(hopefully). As I type this it is snowing again, grrrrrrrrrrrrr

Grimmy

It is getting cold here too and the tropical trees are back inside for at least the next 10 days per forecast (could be longer).

Note that the "small" green bulb pot is 10" diameter

GrimLore · Feb 26, 2014

Poink88 said:
It is getting cold here too and the tropical trees are back inside for at least the next 10 days per forecast (could be longer).

Note that the "small" green bulb pot is 10" diameter

Gimme a call when you need more space

Grimmy

Poink88 · Feb 26, 2014

GrimLore said:
Gimme a call when you need more space

Grimmy

I'll put you on the list. I have several people PM me and expressed interest on some of my "stumps".

I've sold two, gave away/donated several, and killed lots...I am freeing some space as I go along.

LOL What helped is repotting the ones in big nursery pots to smaller ones.

GrimLore · Feb 26, 2014

Poink88 said:
I'll put you on the list. I have several people PM me and expressed interest on some of my "stumps".

I've sold two, gave away/donated several, and killed lots...I am freeing some space as I go along. LOL What helped is repotting the ones in big nursery pots to smaller ones.

I was working on some drawings and it looks like I gave away a LOT I could have kept. I will be increasing stock for certain this Summer when the fence is complete. Putting in the 6 foot Cedar fence is going to triple the amount of shelves I can install. Downside is there will be only one garden in back and whatever I decide out front. The front will probably wait a bit as it is dead East exposure so I will need to be careful with selections.

Grimmy

armetisius · Feb 26, 2014

re: Geo.L. Taber

Poink88,
I do not know about your area but we move our azaleas "just about anytime we decide to" here in the deep South. I have helped dig them in March, June, October, and December; none of these mine or my idea--just roped into it. I imagine it is much the same out there but I would be certain to protect it from wind and keep it misted until you see fresh growth buds. These should show up in around a week or so since this strain of azalea is so "robust".

Did you know that 'George Lindley Taber' is not really an indica hybrid? It is a "sport" of 'Omurasaki', a Hirado hybrid. 'Omurasaki' is a brilliant purple; Taber is a pink sport and G.G. Gebring is the white sport of the same plant.
Check out this page:
http://www.theazaleaworks.com/imageacc.htm

and be certain to read the notes on the two mentioned varieties.

I know Hirado hybrids right? But here are some explanation links:
http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/ejournals/JARS/v29n3/v29n3-suzuki.htm
http://azaleasplendor.dyndns.info/azalea/archives/2012/04/entry_9.php
Best to you.

Poink88 · Feb 26, 2014

armetisius,

Thanks for all the info.

I need to go back and read them again later.

GrimLore · Feb 26, 2014

armetisius said:
Poink88,
I do not know about your area but we move our azaleas "just about anytime we decide to" here in the deep South. I have helped dig them in March, June, October, and December; none of these mine or my idea--just roped into it. I imagine it is much the same out there but I would be certain to protect it from wind and keep it misted until you see fresh growth buds. These should show up in around a week or so since this strain of azalea is so "robust".

Did you know that 'George Lindley Taber' is not really an indica hybrid? It is a "sport" of 'Omurasaki', a Hirado hybrid. 'Omurasaki' is a brilliant purple; Taber is a pink sport and G.G. Gebring is the white sport of the same plant.
Check out this page:
http://www.theazaleaworks.com/imageacc.htm

and be certain to read the notes on the two mentioned varieties.

I know Hirado hybrids right? But here are some explanation links:
http://scholar.lib.vt.edu/ejournals/JARS/v29n3/v29n3-suzuki.htm
http://azaleasplendor.dyndns.info/azalea/archives/2012/04/entry_9.php
Best to you.

The Indica itself rarely survives more then a season. Many if its cultivars do. I am in the North East and against all odds have four Indica a few seasons. It is odd but shows that is is a closer cultivar to the original Japanese cultivar.

Grimmy

When to repot Azalea (George L Tabor - NOT satsuki)?

Imperial Masterpiece

Drop Branch Murphy

Imperial Masterpiece

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you

Omono

Imperial Masterpiece

Imperial Masterpiece

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you

Masterpiece

Attachments

Drop Branch Murphy

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you

Imperial Masterpiece

Attachments

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you

Imperial Masterpiece

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you

Imperial Masterpiece

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you

Chumono

Imperial Masterpiece

Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you

Similar threads