JM progression

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At this point it is a pretty short progression. The tree itself was a cutting from a cutting from a cutting... See about 10-15 years ago when I first started Bonsai I bought my first Japanese Maple! Just a little Momiji, green, nothing special. Literally it was a pencil thin whip in a pot that was grown as a cutting by the nursery owner. She had them behind the greenhouse because she wasn't quite ready to sell them yet- they had clearly rooted but most people want them pretty well established before they sell them to people- at a GOOD nursery anyway I suppose.. So, I talked her into selling it to me for like $10 or something. Long story short, that tree has spawned numerous cuttings, layers and new trees! I have given many away to friends and family but still have the original (now a beautiful landscape tree at my rental home) and a few others of it's "babies"- including a couple more I made last growing season...

The one I am detailing here was a small cutting or layer taken... Probably 6-7 years ago. A year or two were spent in a pot getting established, then it was moved to the ground to develop some trunk... Spent a couple years in the ground and about 3-4 years ago was planted into a nursery container. Last summer I noticed the soil had become compacted and the tree was getting pot bound. It was not growing any more after late Spring- like not really at all- so it was time for a repot. While out of season repots can be dangerous, Maples in my area seem to respond well to late summer/ early Fall repots. It is so hot here that time of year that they are pretty much dormant anyway and our season lasts long enough that even with a September repot or something to spur new growth, you will have a couple months for the tree to harden off new growth and grow some new roots before our first freeze. So, mid September I took it out of the nursery pot, jumped all over the rootball, chopped off a comparable amount of growth and stuck it in it's first bonsai container. I went with a large rectangle pot, just to be a trainer for this tree. Much larger than it will wind up in of course, but since I was kind of doing the repot out of season, I didn't want to go TOO hard on the roots...

The tree responded with EXPLOSIVE growth! It reminded me of someone waking up from a long slumber to STREEETTTTCCCCHHHH out...

Not only did he react well, but I never saw any slow down after the repot! I had a small bud starting to pop right at the edge of where I was pruning back a large branch ( it had BEEN waiting for months and never opened until I repotted and chopped the branch off), and it extended immediately after repot... Didn't miss a beat and was a foot and a half long by the time Winter hit... So here are some pics, first prior to repot then after repot. I included a few details hots to show the bud I was talking about and the rootball though you can't see much except that it was growing in pretty much regular old potting soil prior to this repot when I put it in a bonsai soil mix of Turface, pumice and some organics...

Not much to look at right now. I will post some leafless pics in the next post so you can see how UNdeveloped it was.
 

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Eric Group

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Sorry for the crappy pics- these were early Spring right before bud break... Notice the tree has some branches, most are way too small and almost no ramification on most of them.

I think the last pic shows how happy the tree is- to me, you can tell before sit even starts to grow if your tree is happy. The buds swell and turn color fast, get really long and pretty much all break into leaf within a few days of each other. This was was supremely happy!

So, the question comes up at this point- what do you do now?

Many people seem to say this when you start pinching the new growth. Let it extend a little bit, then pop off the growth tips to promote ramification, keep the leaves small and encourage back budding- right?

That is certainly one way to do it! See the next post for what I actually am doing.
 

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Eric Group

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So, these pics show the tree today- before and after the first haircut of the year. I will let it grow out again for a couple months and cut it back probably around August or so, let it go til the leaves fall off and in the Fall give it a good maintenance pruning- remove any old branch tips, long internodes, new branches that sprouted in bad spots, check the wounds I am trying to close... That sort of stuff.

If this sounds familiar it is pretty much the "hedge pruning" method described by Walter Pall... I do not use big sword shears and I do not just randomly prune for an outline exactly- with this tree it started with so few branches I only had a couple dozen long shoots that needed to be pruned, and most of the new buds that opened up were still within the main canopy.

I left a couple branches running to thicken the main branches that are still undersized and to balance the vigor a bit.

The benefits of treating it this way are already apparent to me-
the tree is extremely vigorous! More so than it would have been had I pinched the tips certainly...
I now have about 5-10 times as many branches to pick from and work with. Important for any developing tree and really, this one has only been truly in training for about 6-7 months...
The growth on top is certainly indicative of the kind of root growth going on under the soil.
Overall, this tree is the healthiest it has ever been! By the time Fall rolls around, it will be almost Unrecognizable compared to the Spring pics I posted above.

Odd that the pics posted in reverse order here- obviously the first pic is after the hair cut!
 

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MACH5

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Sorry for the crappy pics- these were early Spring right before bud break... Notice the tree has some branches, most are way too small and almost no ramification on most of them.

I think the last pic shows how happy the tree is- to me, you can tell before sit even starts to grow if your tree is happy. The buds swell and turn color fast, get really long and pretty much all break into leaf within a few days of each other. This was was supremely happy!

So, the question comes up at this point- what do you do now?

Many people seem to say this when you start pinching the new growth. Let it extend a little bit, then pop off the growth tips to promote ramification, keep the leaves small and encourage back budding- right?

That is certainly one way to do it! See the next post for what I actually am doing.



Nice tree with good potential Eric. Thanks for sharing it. Any idea of what the nebari looks like at this point?

This is definitely what should be happening at this stage with a tree like this. It needs lots of growth for faster overall development and not pinching back growth. That is mostly done in later phases of development. In doing so, just watch where branches thicken too much to avoid unsightly swellings, reverse tapers and such. Also watch your apex and keep it in check so that it doesn't becoming too dominant in the process.

Looks to be a fun project for sure! Keep us posted on its development.
 

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Nice tree with good potential Eric. Thanks for sharing it. Any idea of what the nebari looks like at this point?

This is definitely what should be happening at this stage with a tree like this. It needs lots of growth for faster overall development and not pinching back growth. That is mostly done in later phases of development. In doing so, just watch where branches thicken too much to avoid unsightly swellings, reverse tapers and such. Also watch your apex and keep it in check so that it doesn't becoming too dominant in the process.

Looks to be a fun project for sure! Keep us posted on its development.

Yes, the nebari looks pretty good, but like the branches still needs some maturation. I have radial roots on all sides of the tree- larger ones in front and back that have a little movement and some scaring from previous work that is almost healed. There is a decent flair at the bottom and the roots move out from the trunk very flat, just like you want. Because this one was a layer it developed a shallow root structure from the start... I guess I should get a detail shot of that as well.

JFTR- I agree this is what the tree needs at this stage and I don't want you to think this was some kind of comment on what we were discussing in regards to your Maple in another thread recently. That is a GORGEOUS tree you have... I was just posting this more to try to eliminate some confusion because most books I have read seem to recommend one way to style a Maple- pinching early growth and while you may want to do that some with an established tree, you certainly don't want to do it with younger ones, like this one, that need development of branches, thickening of branches and to heal some wounds. The hedging or "grow then clip" (clip and grow?) method is much more effective to quickly improve the tree. All of the branches are too thin right now for the size of the tree, so I do not see their thickness being a problem any time soon.

Just wanted to clear that up, and as always there is more than one way to skin a cat (or in this case train a Bonsai), I am just showing how I care for this one!

Thanks for the comment Mach- if you have any advice, recommendations, changes you would make... I am all ears!
 

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Yes, the nebari looks pretty good, but like the branches still needs some maturation. I have radial roots on all sides of the tree- larger ones in front and back that have a little movement and some scaring from previous work that is almost healed. There is a decent flair at the bottom and the roots move out from the trunk very flat, just like you want. Because this one was a layer it developed a shallow root structure from the start... I guess I should get a detail shot of that as well.

JFTR- I agree this is what the tree needs at this stage and I don't want you to think this was some kind of comment on what we were discussing in regards to your Maple in another thread recently. That is a GORGEOUS tree you have... I was just posting this more to try to eliminate some confusion because most books I have read seem to recommend one way to style a Maple- pinching early growth and while you may want to do that some with an established tree, you certainly don't want to do it with younger ones, like this one, that need development of branches, thickening of branches and to heal some wounds. The hedging or "grow then clip" (clip and grow?) method is much more effective to quickly improve the tree. All of the branches are too thin right now for the size of the tree, so I do not see their thickness being a problem any time soon.

Just wanted to clear that up, and as always there is more than one way to skin a cat (or in this case train a Bonsai), I am just showing how I care for this one!

Thanks for the comment Mach- if you have any advice, recommendations, changes you would make... I am all ears!



Thanks Eric! We're all good my friend! :D
 

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Yes, the nebari looks pretty good, but like the branches still needs some maturation. I have radial roots on all sides of the tree- larger ones in front and back that have a little movement and some scaring from previous work that is almost healed. There is a decent flair at the bottom and the roots move out from the trunk very flat, just like you want. Because this one was a layer it developed a shallow root structure from the start... I guess I should get a detail shot of that as well.

JFTR- I agree this is what the tree needs at this stage and I don't want you to think this was some kind of comment on what we were discussing in regards to your Maple in another thread recently. That is a GORGEOUS tree you have... I was just posting this more to try to eliminate some confusion because most books I have read seem to recommend one way to style a Maple- pinching early growth and while you may want to do that some with an established tree, you certainly don't want to do it with younger ones, like this one, that need development of branches, thickening of branches and to heal some wounds. The hedging or "grow then clip" (clip and grow?) method is much more effective to quickly improve the tree. All of the branches are too thin right now for the size of the tree, so I do not see their thickness being a problem any time soon.

Just wanted to clear that up, and as always there is more than one way to skin a cat (or in this case train a Bonsai), I am just showing how I care for this one!

Thanks for the comment Mach- if you have any advice, recommendations, changes you would make... I am all ears!
Thisis a romantic story to me...from a cutting of a cutting...Every time we see a stick in a pot the reaction is never very positive...I occasionally forget that all great trees were at one time a stick in a pot.
BTW, That is exactly how I would do the hedge method too....grow as much as needed...long...and cut back...but not indiscriminately to shape...my only objection to the hedge method is not with what You cut it but where you cut it.
 

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Thisis a romantic story to me...from a cutting of a cutting...Every time we see a stick in a pot the reaction is never very positive...I occasionally forget that all great trees were at one time a stick in a pot.
BTW, That is exactly how I would do the hedge method too....grow as much as needed...long...and cut back...but not indiscriminately to shape...my only objection to the hedge method is not with what You cut it but where you cut it.

I understand where you are coming from Neli- thanks!

It was a bit of a journey to bring this tree even just to the point it is at now, but I have to keep reminding myself it has only REALLY been in a training pot and IN TRAINING for about 6 months! I think in a couple years, after another repot to smaller container and some branch development this will be a very nice tree!

The romantic story is indicative of my own romance with bonsai. I decided about 15 years ago that I was good with plants, artistically trained... At least a moderately intelligent person by my own summation... This Bonsai thing should be easy to learn! So, I set about teaching my self how to do it. Reading on the Internet, books... I taught myself and only recently have I had a lot more contact with locals who are way more advanced than I am. I have probably learned more in the past couple years than I did in the previous ten combined. Wish I had gotten involved with local clubs and stuff much earlier!
 

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Erick, I have been growing plants...for donkey years commercially. And when I say donkey...I mean a very old donkey...;) Many years ago I tried bonsai...and gave it up, just to get exited about it recently again.
I dont have a single person in Zambia that does bonsai...I have been trying so hard to get people exited...with very little results...I gave lectures /demos to both garden clubs...but just a mild excitement so far.
I still enjoy it...but it would have been better to share the joy with friends...so far that is possible only via the internet.
I would have had to reinvent the wheel like you if I did not go to Japan to try and learn something. I used to read like 14 hours a day for a year...trying to learn and most importantly understand...and harassed lots of people with questions...so I get it right.
So I know also what it means to learn on your own.
Thank You.
 

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Just a quick update on this one- I removed a large branch early this Spring and was worried it would take years to heal over. Slapped some cut paste on it, and let the tree grow out, cut it back, let it grow again... Checked the wound today- almost the size of a quarter across- and it has COMPLETELY HEALED! In about one half of a growing season! I have had other wounds of comparable size on this same tree take literally YEARS to heal over, and this one is done after three months. Kind of shocked... I guess if anything this speaks to the merits of cut paste. Obviously letting the tree grow as vigorously as it has this sprig helped do the heavy lifting, but the scar healed faster than any I have seen of this size. I thought I took a pic, but couldn't find it tonight. I will try to post one soon.
 

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Well done Eric! Definitely a combination of the plant growing vigorously and the use of cut paste. I am also a big believer of cut paste. I know it is another debated point in bonsai but can't change my mind on this one. It definitely helps heal wounds faster by allowing the cut area to stay with a certain amount of moisture.

I have also been recommended other products designed to do the same. Some with a tooth paste consistency. I have tried a few of them but in my opinion none better than good ol' traditional cut paste at least when it comes to maples. For what is worth I saw in Japan most folks using it as well.
 

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I honestly only started using it in October of last year and just within the past month or two have I noticed the differences. The wounds- most of them on deciduous trees- that had cut paste applied to them healed DRAMATICALLY faster than wounds that did not. Even some old scars that had never healed over well, I just scared the edges a bit and applied cut paste and they have really covered over well!
 

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Just adding updated pics of summer growth... This one is more for my own records than anything else. I know the tree isn't spectacular right now, just a mass of branches pointing off in all directions, but this is proof the tree is insanely healthy and has thrived all year. I pruned it back 2-3 times already this season, the last time came with a partial defoliation so I could see in the canopy a bit and pick some branches. The most amazing thing about this tree is the rate it has healed scars! One fairly large branch was removed in the middle of the tree in the Spring, leaving a scar about the size of my thumb. I checked it lest time I pruned- over a month ago- and it had already COMPLETELY HEALED OVER! I still cannot believe it when I look at the scar now... Never had any tree heal a scar so fast. It is healing as fast or faster than trees I have growing freely in the ground and this one is I a training pot, being regularly pruned... Just amazing..

Anyway, the pics.. I thought I had some of the healed over scar, guess I don't. Will have to post one tomorrow...
 

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Vin

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I dont have a single person in Zambia that does bonsai...

I just came back from the outskirts of town to check the Welcome Sign. For a second there I thought maybe I was living in Zambia and didn't know it... I can't find anyone in this town interested in bonsai.
 

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Nice progression! My biggest issue with JM is they love the Spring but hate the Summer around here. I have about ten or so of them and will continue to keep them but I wish I could figure out how to get them through the summer a little less stressed.
 

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Nice progression! My biggest issue with JM is they love the Spring but hate the Summer around here. I have about ten or so of them and will continue to keep them but I wish I could figure out how to get them through the summer a little less stressed.

Thanks Vin!

You get crispy leaves? Heat man... They can't take 95+ very well it seems... The only thing that works for me is get them used to FULL SUN from before the leaves pop in the Spring, and keep it wet all Summer. Not like soaking, dripping, muddy wet, but never let it dry out and give it a bit of wind protection when it is dry and windy if you can. That should help keep away the crispy leaves... Maples like a little more moisture in the soil than say a Juniper or Pine might and I have never seen health issues with the roots because of over watering on my trees. As long as they are in well draining soil, it is hard to OVER water during the summer in hot areas like yours and mine. Now, obviously in the winter there is no need to keep them as moist... Fall and Winter are the only times I would worry about root rot... When it is hot, water as often as you can.

I know you are in Northern Florida, but does it get cold enough there to give your Maples a full 2-3 months of good dormancy? They fully defoliate and get a good rest? If not, that could be a problem too... The only thing you could try to sustain a longer dormancy is I have heard of people using freezers/ refrigerators to keep them cold... Or if it is cold out, but the sun warms it up too much in the afternoon during the winter, maybe just keep them in a shady place to keep the temps a couple degrees cooler? I don't know how your winters are... May not be a concern for you.
 

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Here is a pic of the scar that healed itself in just a few months this Spring! You can see by comparison to the size of my finger it was a pretty good sized hole in the tree... I think I made the final cut there around March... By June it was healed over almost completely!

I have had wounds like this fester on a tree for YEARS in the past... Granted, this guy has been growing at an insane pace all year, and really put on some girth for one season, loads of ramification, the root spread is starting to pancake... But the difference in healing on this wound when using cut paste vs wounds in the past where I didn't use it was astounding! This is proof to me...
 

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Vin

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Thanks Vin!

You get crispy leaves? Heat man... They can't take 95+ very well it seems... The only thing that works for me is get them used to FULL SUN from before the leaves pop in the Spring, and keep it wet all Summer. Not like soaking, dripping, muddy wet, but never let it dry out and give it a bit of wind protection when it is dry and windy if you can. That should help keep away the crispy leaves... Maples like a little more moisture in the soil than say a Juniper or Pine might and I have never seen health issues with the roots because of over watering on my trees. As long as they are in well draining soil, it is hard to OVER water during the summer in hot areas like yours and mine. Now, obviously in the winter there is no need to keep them as moist... Fall and Winter are the only times I would worry about root rot... When it is hot, water as often as you can.

I know you are in Northern Florida, but does it get cold enough there to give your Maples a full 2-3 months of good dormancy? They fully defoliate and get a good rest? If not, that could be a problem too... The only thing you could try to sustain a longer dormancy is I have heard of people using freezers/ refrigerators to keep them cold... Or if it is cold out, but the sun warms it up too much in the afternoon during the winter, maybe just keep them in a shady place to keep the temps a couple degrees cooler? I don't know how your winters are... May not be a concern for you.

Thanks for the reply.

Yes, they get crispy leaves
Yes, I water often after spring and through the summer
Yes, it gets cold enough here for 2-3 months of dormancy (most years)

Now, here's where I have a problem; controlling internode distance. Don't we need the sun to keep the internodes short? I'm thinking of putting up a trellis panel over the maples and see how it works next year. I'm also thinking of defoliating in mid July. What do you think?
 

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Thanks for the reply.

Yes, they get crispy leaves
Yes, I water often after spring and through the summer
Yes, it gets cold enough here for 2-3 months of dormancy (most years)

Now, here's where I have a problem; controlling internode distance. Don't we need the sun to keep the internodes short? I'm thinking of putting up a trellis panel over the maples and see how it works next year. I'm also thinking of defoliating in mid July. What do you think?

Well defoliation helps by removing the offending leaves, but it depends on how far along you are in developing the tree as to whether this is a great idea for your specific tree. Defoliation, like root pruning, like pruning in general... Are all stress for the tree and basically slow down the growth and development. So if you are developing the tree, and want to see fast growth... Probably don't want to defoliate. If you have more established, trained bonsai and are just looking to reduce leaf size and increase ramification... Then defoliating is a good idea. The shade panels might help...
 

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Well defoliation helps by removing the offending leaves, but it depends on how far along you are in developing the tree as to whether this is a great idea for your specific tree. Defoliation, like root pruning, like pruning in general... Are all stress for the tree and basically slow down the growth and development. So if you are developing the tree, and want to see fast growth... Probably don't want to defoliate. If you have more established, trained bonsai and are just looking to reduce leaf size and increase ramification... Then defoliating is a good idea. The shade panels might help...

I hear you. One last question, do you think it is less stressful for the tree to keep a crispy leaf or to lose it through manual defoliation?
 
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