Starting my maples :D

RKatzin

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Could be the effect of the powdery mildew also and as you say it is fall. I would clip remove all leaf and debris and watch them in the spring to make sure you have good ventilation.

It is good to check your surrounding area to see if the mildew is coming to you from another source. I had alot of blackberry brier around and had alot of mildew until I remove it to the property line, which also increase my ventilation flow.
 

barrosinc

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i live in an appartment so space is kinda scarce, but I will build some sort of shelf so that they get more air. I don't know where the fungus might have come from, but my neighbour is a community center with tons of trees.
 

barrosinc

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all the leaves fell of my trees, so I heavy pruned all three maples I have.
I will post a pic tonight, but aiming for a moyogi style to start with.
In spring I will place these in wooden growing pots over a ceramic platter. So far so good...
 

barrosinc

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so... I put 4 maples in the ground. i dug a hole like 1m x 1m and 50cm deep, it was getting too hard so i stoped. Filled the bottom layer with larger stones, then I used pumice and perlite and good potting soil.
1. and 2. i put through a hole in a terracota plate like shown on peter adams book.
3. i organized the roots and put it over a plate.
4. i used 5 small holes and passed 5 seedlings through them a cm apart. just like Al (aka smoke) but closer together with seedlings like a year old.

I hope this works!!
 

barrosinc

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why does Boon in his DVD starting working the tree in autumn??ç

edit: retardedness... He only prunes and wires branches in autumn and then repots late winter.
 
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barrosinc

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So as I had to prune now, heres the original tree and how I left it... I hope I didn't mess up too bad.

I left it a bit taller thinking in cutting back later on, like boon in his dvds.

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barrosinc

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The can is huge... its a 20 oz. can.
And the thick piece of branch on the right is gonna get chopped off. I just wanted to know best way to leave the least scaring on the long run.
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Per your request, here are 2 routes to go with this stock. Taller, which would require a thread graft (first virt), and shorter (virt 2-3) which would require growing out a new section of trunk.

But first, you should look at the base and identify the best front, based on the nebari/base/lower trunk taper, and if possible, hide the scars.
 

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barrosinc

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Per your request, here are 2 routes to go with this stock. Taller, which would require a thread graft (first virt), and shorter (virt 2-3) which would require growing out a new section of trunk.

But first, you should look at the base and identify the best front, based on the nebari/base/lower trunk taper, and if possible, hide the scars.

I have always loved a tall acer palmatum, idea 1 seems like what I was thinking. should I graft or just wait for a bud? I have never grafted before.
 

Poink88

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First, I wish you did not remove the 2 side branches. I would have used one of them in tandem with the other side branch you left...and remove the center trunk. Not crying over spilled milk...but for you to consider next time before chopping away.

I'll look and let you know if I can see other options from what BVF have given you. I do find the 3rd virt w/ branch going down a bit "weird". :D

Between the 2 options, I prefer the removal of the main trunk and see what growth you will get from the side branch. Good luck!
 
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barrosinc

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I started chopping thinking on the same thing that BVF showed but Thought there was some way to get less scaring.

I bought this tree thinking that the main trunk was almost done, I wanted to do the creating branch and refining on at least one tree instead of having only pre-bonsais.
 

barrosinc

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... I thought of using the side branches but they seemed to straight.
 

barrosinc

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Pics non sideways...
The roots seem way to thick... Should I layer it when the tree is vigurous?
Or should I just graft some roots on it and make the roots shorter next repot?
 

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barrosinc

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I know timing might not be the best, but I did all this with my teacher, so if it doesn't workout I will try other things.

The grow box is 5 inches deep, and the bottom is just fly screen used for doors.
I used:
1/3 potting soil
1/3 volcanic rock
1/3 pumice
and a bit of charcoal.

And a drainage layer of like an inch of pure pumice like boon uses.

I really appreciate comments as honest as possible, I hate begging for help, but after reading books and the lessons I just finished you guys are my best chance of improving.
 

barrosinc

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I see people putting sphagnum moss to improve the nebari, what else has to be done? do I apply rooting hormone? or something else?
 

Poink88

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For now, I think you are fine. Just let it recover then revisit after a year or two. The only thing you should do as soon as possible (next year) is the thread graft.

Avoid movement, make sure the tree is securely wired to the pot...and let it be. ;)

Good luck!
 

barrosinc

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It is tight in the grow box.

Thread graft for roots or branches? Why not wait for a bud on the tree?
 

barrosinc

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Looking at Dav4 "$35 nursery maple thread" seems like I messed up bretty bad on the roots.

I should have cut something like this:
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