Olive whirl

JudyB

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True thing that backbudding. When you do it during the strong growth of the heat of the summer, and you won't believe how fast the new stuff grows.

I think you could use that angle, but to me it looses some of the character that the other side has. Olives are best when they are lumpy and almost grotesquely so. The trunk is almost too straight here, and I don't see any of that cool lumpy branch that was the left one. Maybe try to turn it back toward the other side a bit and find something in between.
 

JudyB

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Here are a couple shots of mine so you can see what I mean about taking the middle trunk back... made a world of difference for my tree. The last one was taken this morning.

The thread is here if you want to see the discussion about this olive. There were lots of good thoughts thrown out there.

http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?7016-Help-needed-with-Eu-Olive-styling
 

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bonsairxmd

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Here are a couple shots of mine so you can see what I mean about taking the middle trunk back... made a world of difference for my tree. The last one was taken this morning.

The thread is here if you want to see the discussion about this olive. There were lots of good thoughts thrown out there.

http://bonsainut.com/forums/showthread.php?7016-Help-needed-with-Eu-Olive-styling

What do you do with your olive over the winter?
 

JudyB

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I overwinter mine inside the house. Nothing special, but in a south facing window. A shop light florescent for additional light. They don't need a lot of humidity, so it's one of the few that can be successfully overwintered in a house. What kind of soil is yours in? If it's in a west coast (moisture retentive soil) type, you'll need to water with care over the winter.

I have heard of success overwintering these in much colder conditions than I do, but mine is happy with my method. It even puts on some pretty good growth at times inside.

That pot is a European potter by the name of Horst Heinzelreiter.
 

JudyB

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Just remember that you are in zone 7a, and I am in 5a. So don't use my scheme as the best for you...
 

JudyB

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A bit hard to tell from the photo, but off hand I would have to say yes. Good chopping and show us when you are done. If you want before you cut, to show us better pics, and get better advice....
 

bonsairxmd

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I'm thinking about this style eventually and tilting the potting angle of my Olive . This example is Walter Pall's. I need to get better at taking pictures and use my wife's camera instead of my iPhone. I'll post a pic after the chop. A little nervous!
 

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JudyB

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This thing should put out huge amounts of growth in the next few weeks. I would let it have it's head and do reductions next year. It will give you more to work with if you just let it grow for a season. Good for you.
 

bonsairxmd

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I'm really not sure where to take styling from here. It's only 4" from the soil line to the first branch. I'm kind of regretting chopping it since it is so short so styling it like Walter Pall's olive I posted won't work. Haven't got any new buds to wire vertically for a new leader yet.

Any styling suggestions from this point? I'll post an updated photo though it's much the same now.
 
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bonsairxmd

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Here are crappy photos from today
 

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JudyB

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Patience grasshopper. I would think on reducing those thick straight branches during next summers growing season, and when the new branches start up, get some movement in them early. Start to make a crown... Look at pictures of real olive trees to see what they look like for inspiration. Think about multiple leaders instead of just one main leader. Part of what you see that you are unhappy about now, is that it has nothing but lateral movement. And that is too straight. If you cut off those laterals, the tree will give you new buds that will grow up instead of out, but you must also wire with these as they grow arrow straight if you let them.
You've started well, but you can't expect one chop to make the tree for you.
 

bonsairxmd

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Thanks Judy. I guess I didn't have the artistic vision to see where to go next with it. Your comments and feedback is very helpful and much appreciated.
 

bonhe

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I would layer or just flat cut it. Click through this slide show and read what this dude does; http://www.dugzbonsai.com/olivehead1.htm

I've done this procedure twice before and both times it has worked out great.
Olive is very strong and can survive even with the big cutting! (of course if it is given good humidity environment). I currently have 2 large olive trees from the cutting. The trunk base diameter is about 17" each!
Bonhe
 

Lazylightningny

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All work on olive, particularly chopping and pruning should be done when the tree is in full grow mode. When it's hot hot hot, is when it really hits it's stride.
Judy, does this go for other members of Family Oleaceae as well, like privets, forsythia, and lilac?
 

JudyB

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That I do not know, although I know that privet is pretty bulletproof, pretty sure you can do almost anything to them.
 
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