Best soil for developing trees?

Eric Group

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I can post some results from what I did this year as follow up to my original post here...

I made my own mix that was- I think- very similar to "pro mix". Basically some Sohagnum peat moss that has small amounts of nutrients mixed in and a moisture agent that keeps it from repelling water like peat can when it gets too dry.., mixed it with Pearlite about a 75-25 mix of peat to Pearlite... And the trees I planted in it grew GREAT... Like AMAZING growth. I had a Pyracanthia that got chopped back this Spring, repotted into my homemade "Pro Mix" let it grow, chopped it back... Let it grow again and it had 3foot + runners coming off the main branches by the time Falls tarted to come on... Just INSANE growth! The same happened with a Crepe Myrtle I have had for years- colledpcted a long time ago, never grew much,planted in this mix this Spring and it bounced back like I have never seen! Looks great now... So, my conclusion is this mix is a very good option for developing trees!

I planted a bunch of trees last Fall and early this Spring in my own homemmade bonsai mix- turface, pumice, pine bark and some chicken grit... And they grew GREAT! Like... Just as rapid and healthy as the trees that were in my pro mix... Perhaps not quite as fast, but we are talking so many various species it is hard to be scientific... Still it produced great results!

I also planted a bunch of trees I t he ground, mixing in compost and some potting mix with the dirt from my garden... And most grew... Slow by comparison to the potted trees. The Pines threw some decent candles and the Crepe Myrtles grew quite well, but the Maples and Juniper were way behind the trees in pots.

Just my results, obviously not scientific, but if I had to draw a conclusion I'd be leaning toward growing developing trees in a "pro- mix" like substrate in larger pots to produce the fastest growth and best results.

Now, again this is a both DEVLOPING TREES- growing up young plants to produce a more mature look, thicker trunks... Not about fine tuning trees and long term growth for trees potted in Bonsai containers.
 

JoeR

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I also am trying tp find a good soil mix. I have been wanting to try the mark one compost described In 'The Bonsai Book' and slightly modify it with some sort of nutrients mix. Has anyone tried the mark one compost? Good or bad? Any help appreciated.
 

sorce

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Oildry. 7.99, pine fines, 5.99.

5/4/14.
6/11/14.
Today. 3ft plus
Frozen roots. In a container you can fit a sandwich in.

Watered once a day a.m.... 90+F then After work too.

Honest opinions?

Its about all a can fit on the sill!

Sorce
 

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sorce

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Nakadama!

Bumpity bump.
 

sorce

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Another. 8/2/14

I guess i did cut this thing quite a bit !

Sorce
 

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Littlejoe919

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I read this whole tread today...I learned a lot and laughed a lot... Thank you to who ever brought up WeeTree. I ordered there pro mix and I guess we'll see. I've been using a "gritty mix" but I'm too new to know the diffrence.
 

Anthony

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Sorce,

what you are really looking at is how your medium ages at your core.

From what I read, compost ages to humus [ the famous humic acid and other ] but with pine bark you still have to get to compost.

Readings in past stated that to compost the material has to decay, and at some point it will dump a great deal of Nitrogen, which is supposed to damage the feeders on the root.

Has this been challenged [ researched ] and found to be incorrect ?

So I would be interested in your core after 5 to 10 to 15 years.

Hello Joseph [ of IBC ? ] welcome to Bnut. My brother-in-law say high - he is Khai to you I believe.

AND the plug -

Sifted crushed fired eartheware red building block clay 5mm

Builder's gravel, silica based,sifted. 5mm

Organic - compost / peat moss / coco peat

Used since the early 1980's , mix starts at 1/3 / 1/3 / 1/3

Smiles all around - laughing.
Good Day
Anthony
 

Littlejoe919

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Yes Anthony,
It's me. Khai has given me a lot of guidance and I always look forward to his posts. Say Hi back for me, and thank you for the welcome.
 

amcoffeegirl

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8*1=8
2*4=8
2*2*2=8
10-2=8
5+3=8
16/2=8
1+1+1+1+1+1+1+1=8
(25-1)/3=8
.

I hate math

So late to the party. Sifting through bs to get to the good stuff.

So I think roots like the air pockets of the lava and without it the soil would compact too much.
Air is just as important to grow as the water and ferts.
Perfect balance - wax on wax off
 
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Alcaviator

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I've also been a Boon student for about three years. I'm on a slow schedule - I can only make it out there once or twice a year, but I've had him in my garden on several occasions as well. Haven't met Adair there yet, but I'm sure our paths will cross at some point.

I have all my trees in Boon mix (or are we calling it Kepler mix now?) - tropicals, bald cypress, conifers, and deciduous. When you're one of Boon's students and you're learning his regimen it's built around performing an action and getting a predictable response. Growing your plants in turface or potting soil while following his program will yield less than optimal results. But be prepared for the commitment and additional care your trees will require. It's really more of a lifestyle choice than a hobby. I water up to 3 times a day during the hottest part of the year (which I think lasts from March until December in Houston) and fertilize with cakes and liquid fertilizer 2-3 times a week. I love it, so it's not a problem for me, but it makes family vacations an ordeal and, since there's not an app for it, some people might find that to be a problem.

Boon will tell you, and I think he's right, that there are very few trees in America that are past the development stage. Certainly all of my trees are not - to be sure some are farther along than others and I have some quite nice starter material - they are all project trees nonetheless. And I have too many projects, despite the fact that I've paired down over the years. I think a number like 25 or 30 would be optimal for someone like me with a day job, kids in the house and tax time looming. Which means I have twice as many projects as that which I could reasonably care for.

With that collection in Boon mix, I go through about 30-40 gallons of soil a year. I get together with friends and buy material by the pallet to keep costs under control. We just took delivery of a pallet of lava and a pallet of pumice earlier this year. 40 gallons of soil approximately equates to 4 30 pound bags of akadama at $30 a bag, 2 60 pound bags of lava at $15/ bag, 2 60 pound bags of pumice at $15/bag, and 2 24 oz bags of Hoffman charcoal at $5.50/bag - all sieved to remove the coarse and fine fraction. As an aside, turface costs $15/bag for a 50 lb bag at Ewing irrigation here in Houston.

That's about $200 per year or $17/month maximum in soil costs for Boon mix in my garden collection of about 50 trees. Most years it is less. Cheap considering how much I spend on trees, tools, and flying to California for intensives. As you get good development material and pot it up in boon mix, sieve the leftover material from repotting in subsequent years for your starters and for the material you are growing in the ground.

Scott
Next time you buy a pallet let me know! I wouldnt mind driving from DFW to get in on a deal like that!
 
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