Japanese Maple overhaul

Eric Group

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So, this is an air layer from a cutting from a cutting.... I have a bunch of Maples and most of them came from a parent stock I purchased about ten years ago at a local garden center. It was a little cutting that was nothing more than a foot tall pencil thin whip at the time of purchase. I eventually planted it in my yard, that house is still one that I own as a rental property, and the tree has turned into a beautiful specimen landscape tree that I just don't think I could ever dig up and put in a pot at this point... But she has yielded numerous cuttings and air layers over the years... This little guy is one of those. It sustained some damage a couple years back (animal attack i believe) but after being ignored for a couple years and just allowed to grow, it regained some vitality and had a sacrifice branch removed this spring that was probably two feet tall.. So, I had this little umbrella shape left with little potential for improvement and advancement. I took it by my buddy Ken's house a couple weeks ago, he immediately looked it over, assessed the poorly healing damaged areas and after about 30 seconds said "oh, you should make that little branch the new leader and remove this bad area..." It was one of those palm to the forehead "why didn't I think of that" kind of moments... I guess after spending two years letting a sacrifice branch grow to try to fix a problem you don't want to start all over, but his advice made too much sense NOT to do it. So, this was basically what the tree looked like before I started...

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/6195/9a2.jpg

And, after the chop:

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/959/sqs1.jpg
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/5114/wh92.jpg

Then the root work- there were some heavy roots going straight down that just didn't provide the type of nebari I wanted... It had been growing in basically a regular old nursery potting soil, heavy, organic... But the roots were heathy. These heavy organic soils I have found are just fine for young trees when you are just trying to grow them out in a nursery pot.. You just have to be careful how you water, don't let the roots stay too soggy... So, it was healthy but to get his roots in the shape I wanted I knew it was time for a serious bare root and hack job... Now, the Spring is probably best for this, but when reducing the top by as much as I did, I think early Fall is a fine time to give the roots a good whack. I took off about 60% of the root mass from another Maple about 3-4 weeks again (WAY too early... But he was pot bound, not growing any longer and I was just ready to give it a try) and he is THRIVING now because of it... Perhaps that is one for another thread... I had some big plans in mind for this little guy today. Like I said, I decided I needed to go hard on that thick root, hoping to generate some more radial root production where I cut him. Here is what I did:

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/6871/jx86.jpg

Pretty extreme, I know- but there were lot of healthy roots left... I soaked some sphagnum moss in water, doused it with rooting hormone, applied it to the areas I wanted to stimulate new roots, slapped this guy down on a flat tile to encourage roots to grow outward not downward, dug a hole in my garden, then filled in around the roots with a gritty bonsai mix of turface, pumice and pine bark and watered it. The spot i put him in gets sun maybe 30% of the time (a somewhat shady spot for my garden) but the afternoon is when it is in pretty much full sun. This should give it enough sun to generate tons of growth, keep the leaves pretty small and still moderate it enough to keep from frying it. The last thing I did was topped it with some "erth food"- a type of compost/ fertilizer that is coarse chopped composted peanut shells basically. This is something I have found recently that adds small amounts of nutrients in even distribution slowly and peanut shells hold TONS of moisture... I am really just using it as a top dressing for this guy to keep his roots somewhat moist while also slowly providing some nutrients. I will try to update this with a pic of this guy in the ground, and then add some as he gets bigger.

This is pretty extreme work for me, I am usually a little more timid when I re-work a tree... I usually try not to cut the roots so hard or chop the top so hard the same time I am repotting/ bare rooting it... So, this is a bit of an experiment for me. If it was a tree I Had paid a lot of money for, maybe I would have been a little less aggressive, but a tree like this that was a layer from a cutting of a cutting.., that had been all but killed a couple years back by a dog attack... Hey, this tree is a survivor, it was free and one that I am willing to experiment with! I feel pretty confident this will produce some good results in the long run and I am really just using this thread for my own monitoring of it's progress... But please feel free to tell me what I did wrong or what I did well... I am always trying to learn as I go. Pretty much been self taught from reading books and articles. I have been lucky enough to talk a little with some locals who are way more advanced than myself lately, so hopefully I can start to advance at a little faster pace in the coming years.

Any comments or advice would be appreciated, thanks!
 
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tmmason10

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So, this is an air layer from a cutting from a cutting.... I have a bunch of Maples and most of them came from a parent stock I purchased about ten years ago at a local garden center. It was a little cutting that was nothing more than a foot tall pencil thin whip at the time of purchase. I eventually planted it in my yard, that house is still one that I own as a rental property, and the tree has turned into a beautiful specimen landscape tree that I just don't think I could ever dig up and put in a pot at this point... But she has yielded numerous cuttings and air layers over the years... This little guy is one of those. It sustained some damage a couple years back (animal attack i believe) but after being ignored for a couple years and just allowed to grow, it regained some vitality and had a sacrifice branch removed this spring that was probably two feet tall.. So, I had this little umbrella shape left with little potential for improvement and advancement. I took it by my buddy Ken's house a couple weeks ago, he immediately looked it over, assessed the poorly healing damaged areas and after about 30 seconds said "oh, you should make that little branch the new leader and remove this bad area..." It was one of those palm to the forehead "why didn't I think of that" kind of moments... I guess after spending two years letting a sacrifice branch grow to try to fix a problem you don't want to start all over, but his advice made too much sense NOT to do it. So, this was basically what the tree looked like before I started...

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/6195/9a2.jpg

And, after the chop:

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/959/sqs1.jpg
http://img30.imageshack.us/img30/5114/wh92.jpg

Then the root work- there were some heavy roots going straight down that just didn't provide the type of nebari I wanted... It had been growing in basically a regular old nursery potting soil, heavy, organic... But the roots were heathy. These heavy organic soils I have found are just fine for young trees when you are just trying to grow them out in a nursery pot.. You just have to be careful how you water, don't let the roots stay too soggy... So, it was healthy but to get his roots in the shape I wanted I knew it was time for a serious bare root and hack job... Now, the Spring is probably best for this, but when reducing the top by as much as I did, I think early Fall is a fine time to give the roots a good whack. I took off about 60% of the root mass from another Maple about 3-4 weeks again (WAY too early... But he was pot bound, not growing any longer and I was just ready to give it a try) and he is THRIVING now because of it... Perhaps that is one for another thread... I had some big plans in mind for this little guy today. Like I said, I decided I needed to go hard on that thick root, hoping to generate some more radial root production where I cut him. Here is what I did:

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/6871/jx86.jpg

Pretty extreme, I know- but there were lot of healthy roots left... I soaked some sphagnum moss in water, doused it with rooting hormone, applied it to the areas I wanted to stimulate new roots, slapped this guy down on a flat tile to encourage roots to grow outward not downward, dug a hole in my garden, then filled in around the roots with a gritty bonsai mix of turface, pumice and pine bark and watered it. The spot i put him in gets sun maybe 30% of the time (a somewhat shady spot for my garden) but the afternoon is when it is in pretty much full sun. This should give it enough sun to generate tons of growth, keep the leaves pretty small and still moderate it enough to keep from frying it. The last thing I did was topped it with some "erth food"- a type of compost/ fertilizer that is coarse chopped composted peanut shells basically. This is something I have found recently that adds small amounts of nutrients in even distribution slowly and peanut shells hold TONS of moisture... I am really just using it as a top dressing for this guy to keep his roots somewhat moist while also slowly providing some nutrients. I will try to update this with a pic of this guy in the ground, and then add some as he gets bigger.

This is pretty extreme work for me, I am usually a little more timid when I re-work a tree... I usually try not to cut the roots so hard or chop the top so hard the same time I am repotting/ bare rooting it... So, this is a bit of an experiment for me. If it was a tree I Had paid a lot of money for, maybe I would have been a little less aggressive, but a tree like this that was a layer from a cutting of a cutting.., that had been all but killed a couple years back by a dog attack... Hey, this tree is a survivor, it was free and one that I am willing to experiment with! I feel pretty confident this will produce some good results in the long run and I am really just using this thread for my own monitoring of it's progress... But please feel free to tell me what I did wrong or what I did well... I am always trying to learn as I go. Pretty much been self taught from reading books and articles. I have been lucky enough to talk a little with some locals who are way more advanced than myself lately, so hopefully I can start to advance at a little faster pace in the coming years.

Any comments or advice would be appreciated, thanks!
Well it is certainly on its way to being a nice shohin. The work does seem a little extreme for this time of year, but I don't have experience with fall repotting. If you posted the pictures here, you would probably get more comments.
 

Eric Group

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Yeah, I don't get along with the image program for this site. I have tried everything, but whether posting from my iPad or iPhone it turns them sideways, or just won't post them at all... Imageshak is the best I can do, unless I am going to move all my pics to a laptop...

I have more experience with the deciduous trees than Junipers and Pines, but in my experience, in this climate, there is little difference between Spring and fall in regard to what kind of "insults" a tree can take... It seems for these Maples and stuff like it, they produce more buds in the Spring if you do your major cutting in the Fall... I guess it gives the tree more time to rebound before real growth begins again... The roots grow as much during our Fall as they do in the Spring, and they usually grow slowly all through the winter as we normally have very few hard freezes.

Thanks!!
 

Dirty Nails

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Eric thanks for posting this. I like maple discussions way more than ficus.

It does seem unorthodox doing this kind of work now. The couple of times that I have done those kind of chops in late summer the leader died and it did not go well after that. I have done a straight chop a couple inches above the leader and then carved it down the following spring which worked better. It seems I can do almost ANYTHING in early spring and it goes well. Please keep us updated as I have some big maple work due (but I am waiting until spring).
 

Eric Group

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Thanks, I will keep you updated... The tree showed no ill effects today- no signs of immediate shock. I expect it to be just fine! I would have waited until spring, but I want tons of new buds on him and it seems like you get more when you cut them back hard this time of year... That has been my experience anyway... It might be different in colder environments. I don't think we had hardly any real hard freezes last winter here in SC, so my plants don't get nearly the test that they do in most areas of the country. We have a few days every winter where it gets below freezing during the coldest part of the night, but we don't generally get a lot of snow and ice, and it hardly ever goes below 20 degrees or so...

Maybe this is a big risk, but like I said, the tree is one that had been kind of a lost cause for years, it needed a drastic change and I wanted to get it done now to give it a head start on the next growing season. I put about 5-6 trees in the ground in my garden this summer/ early Fall and I hope to have a couple of them in there only two years or so- I need that space back to grow more veggies eventually!! LOL

Regardless, I am sure this little guy will survive, and I oughta learn something in the process.
 

gergwebber

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Well it is certainly on its way to being a nice shohin. The work does seem a little extreme for this time of year, but I don't have experience with fall repotting. If you posted the pictures here, you would probably get more comments.

Not to hijack, but I am curious:

Does anyone in a milder climate suggest moderate to light root work in fall for deciduous trees? Is major root growth dependent on active foliage, or stored nutrients? I know that many of my trees are pushing roots from late fall through winter, and it always seems like a waste to hack all the fresh tips off in spring just because thats when you are supposed to repot.
 
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I've had good luck doing minor to moderate root work in the early fall for deciduous material. I haven't been real scientific about it but I was following the growth principle that when the leaves turn and drop, the carbohydrates and energy are invested in the roots for storage, which could help fall trimmed roots recover. I wouldn't do major root work because unless you time it perfectly, the roots should still support the leaves for a time. The balancing of the the top an the bottom would make timing less important, except that you would need time enough in the growing season to repair the new wounds before dormancy. I would have done major work to the top and bottom in the spring or summer, or done the roots now and the top in the spring.
That being said I am only a novice sharing my limited perspective on my own interpretation of the growth principles from Brent's articles. I think that the work in this case was very artfully done and it is likely the vigor of the material will overcome this much work so late in the season. Maybe protecting from the first few freezes while allowing dormancy would assist the recovery?

Edit: looking at The location of Columbia, SC I think the material will do just fine.
 
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Neli

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Junipers are repotted in fall in Japan, shohin and mame in september and larger ones a month later.
I repot year round, with proper after care.
 

Eric Group

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Thanks Neli, I think you hit on the most important thing there- proper care! It is pretty surprising what a tree can come back from if you baby it afterward... I have found Maples to be really tough for the most part.

I haven't seen any indication of stress from this tree at all and it has been a few days now. The young growth at the tip is stil the same color, not wilting at all... I am keeping it kind of damp but now wet, and I expect by summer of next year there will be a ton of new growth to show off on this one...
 

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Well I have been meaning to take pics of this little guy- he has shot out a foot long branch with three main shoots on it!

This comes after an extremely hard winter where we had not only the coldest weather and by far the most snow I recall... EVER, but also a pretty dry cold most of the winter that lead to squirrels in my area being extremely hard on my trees- especially Maples- and this little guy was no exception to that. I left one branch to grow free at the top of the tree, and it was gnawed off by those little bastards down to one node! From that node, a couple new shoots sprang out and it is growing quite well now! Looks to be healing over that nasty scar already... I think the transition from lower trunk to new trunk will be smooth and create a nice movement very low on the tree! Not planning on an especially large tree here, so I am thinking just a few years of growth should put me where I need to be!
 

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Took some pics, they came out awful because it was way too dark and my flash was whiting out the trunk... Just wanted to document the growth and progression a bit.
 

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Neli

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It is getting there...this cutting of a cutting...he hehe!
 

Eric Group

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Well... I left it in the ground for a year and a half to thicken the trunk a bit, heal the scar some, regain some vigor.... and most of all develop some good roots... and BOY DID IT!! I was fooling around in the yard this past weekend (fooling around= KILLING MYSELF for three days straight because I was off Monday) and decided that:
1. I needed that spot in my garden
2. The tree needed a root overhaul to keep from getting all wild and crazy super thick roots
3. The trunk was surprisingly expanded... Not quite big enough yet, but I will get it there..
4. I needed to get a lower branch grafted

So, the tree came out of the ground, and went into a training pot. At first I was actually planning to put it back in the ground on the tile again, but I was so satisfied with the root growth, and wanted a little more control for shaping and eventually grafting a few roots on the next time I repot... That I decided on a big training pot instead!
You can see the materials used and tile it was planted on in the wheel barrow in the second pic.. I will add some pics of it in it's new pot and with the thread grafted branch once I get them downloaded from the camera!
DSC00744.JPG
DSC00747.JPG DSC00746.JPG
 

Eric Group

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Oh, and I love the "zipper" looking scar running up the trunk... it should fade with time I guess, but it is a handsome character piece IMO... a real frankentree feature!
 

Eric Group

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DSC00752.JPG DSC00750.JPG DSC00751.JPG DSC00748.JPG DSC00753.JPG DSC00756.JPG A few pics of the roots after a light (pretty HEAVY, but light for a vigorous Maple) pruning some combing and good washing... The spread is getting there, but you can see some empty spots that need a thread graft or approach graft added.
 

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A quick summation of work completed yesterday on this tree:

1- dug and repotted (obviously) with some root pruning and normal accompanying work
2- Scared the bark in a few spots around the base I want new roots to pop and applied rooting hormone, not expecting much, and if they don't make roots for me, I will just graft some on later
3- scraped off a little bark around the inside edge of the big scar and applied cut paste
4-Thread grafted a thin branch off the back side to emerge from the sharp curve in the new leader just above the scar. this was exciting for me because it was the first thread graft I have ever tried... I have seen them done in person and seen plenty of picture tutorials here, in books and on other websites, but you never learn unless you try! Please let me know what I did wrong. I remembered a few points Smoke and Mach 5 have talked about- mainly making sure the first internode after the graft is very close to the trunk so the future branch can develop good ramification and you are starting with a small first intermodal distance...DSC00754.JPG DSC00755.JPG DSC00759.JPG DSC00757.JPG
 

Brian Van Fleet

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Good start, nice base, taper and wiggle. I would have kept going on those roots though...lots of meat left on that bone!
 

Eric Group

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Good start, nice base, taper and wiggle. I would have kept going on those roots though...lots of meat left on that bone!
Thanks Brian!

I know I could have whacked them back a LOT further... I just didn't want to do too much at once... My original intent was to go back in the ground, but when I decided on the thread graft, and that I would probably need to graft some roots on next repot... I decided to keep it in a training pot to make work easier. I did cut back a little futher than what is pictured as I was potting it up, but nowhere near as far as I could have gone. Will probably repot again in another year or two, and I am hoping to get some good growth this year to start to seal the graft. If I went real hard on the roots, I figured that would slow the growth down a lot this season. Maybe I was over thinking it, but that is why I stopped where I did.
 
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