Now the tree will be watered a lot, fed a lot, partial sun, I will prune it like a hedge by the end of June and beginning of July. In March/April next yeasr the crown will be edited and fully wired. In two years this will be on any large exhibit. Bonsai is fun. Life is good to me.
The gray stuff on the roots is lime sulphur. I do this to bleach the roots which were under the soil and have a darker color than the others. Look at the last images to see the effect.
The final soil dressing is fine crushed baked loam (what you would call turface) in several shades of gray (!) and nice natural structure. This is only for the eye.
The overwhelming number of trees is repotted too early. Now, when then foliage is just out is is late, but not too late. This is better than too early. I do this every year. You should not think that I am an idiot who cannot wait a few months and kills a ten grand tree. I have done this hundreds of times.
I would not bare root a maple regardless of time. Bare rooting was only necessary when we still used soil. Now with substrate it is not necessary, you can shake out the old substrate. Bare rooting is high risk! Don't do it!
The gray stuff on the roots is lime sulphur. I do this to bleach the roots which were under the soil and have a darker color than the others. Look at the last images to see the effect.
Amazing tree. As you proceed in developing this tree (not that it needs much) I'd be interested in your thoughts on developing ramification with this variety compared to other Japanese maple cultivars.
Jason, as with all trees. Just the contrary of what they tell you. Let grow freely very long. Then cut back ruthlessly. The tree will respond with lots of buds. It's called the hedge cutting method. All hedges are developed by it. And my bonsai. Ever wondered about the great ramification of hedges?