rockm
Spuds Moyogi
The latest post on Zach Smith's website is worth a look. Defoliation to refresh foliage...
http://bonsai-south.com/
http://bonsai-south.com/
If you have BC
- Thread starter rockm
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pweifan
Shohin
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
Thanks, but the defoliation article is on the main page I linked to if you scroll down.
pweifan
Shohin
sikadelic
Chumono
Thanks. I will defoliate mine this evening!
Zach Smith
Omono
Just to be clear, the tree needs to have well-established roots when you defoliate. I wouldn't do it in year one on a collected specimen, but year two and beyond is no problem. Incidentally, the tree in my blog post is already pushing new buds. By next weekend the new round of growth will be well underway.
Zach
Zach, just wanted to thank you for sharing your tips and techniques on your blog. I'm sure I speak for us all when I say we greatly appreciate it.
I'm going to try defoliating one of my BCs this weekend. I've had the same issue of foliage getting tired out over the summer here in the DC area.
I'm going to try defoliating one of my BCs this weekend. I've had the same issue of foliage getting tired out over the summer here in the DC area.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
Zach beat me to the punch. Defoliating a weak tree is not a good thing to do. It is done to get a fresh crop of leaves and increase ramification mostly a technique to use on trees that have been in design for a while to refine the image.
evmibo
Shohin
Zach,
Can you give some insight on styling BC to create flat tops? Do you basically just wire at 45 degrees then everything else from there is flat? I know John G has some great BC's too, maybe he'll chime in.
Can you give some insight on styling BC to create flat tops? Do you basically just wire at 45 degrees then everything else from there is flat? I know John G has some great BC's too, maybe he'll chime in.
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
FWIW, flat tops aren't really all that flat. 
They have some depth. I started mine similarly to what Vaughn Banting did here -- start with two shoots from the chop site, cut those back, wait for more, wire, and so on...You wind up with a top that has a bit more depth than a flattop haircut.
They have some depth. I started mine similarly to what Vaughn Banting did here -- start with two shoots from the chop site, cut those back, wait for more, wire, and so on...You wind up with a top that has a bit more depth than a flattop haircut.
Zach Smith
Omono
There are different ways to do it. In Vaughn's famous tree, the main leader is wired and positioned away from the prevailing direction of the trunk (in such a way that you achieve balance with the nebari and primary movement of the trunk, much like you'd do the positioning for a standard informal upright specimen). You then create what is essentially a broom-form crown - this type of flat-top cypress is actually broom-form, it just has a lengthier trunk with vestigual branching typical of BC in the wild. A second way to create a flat-top is to select two or three leaders at the top of your trunk, then wire and position them so that the primary branching in the crown essentially forms a flattenened version of a broom-form. This is the same, incidentally, as the piernief (sp?) style we often see on African-style specimens. Don Blackmond has posted some photos of outstanding examples of BC trained in this style.
The main thing with training BC is they work really hard to outgrow your attempts to keep them in check. It's a great feature, as they develop quickly, but challenging as well.
Zach
rockm
Spuds Moyogi
BTW, here is mine (which I got from Zach almost 20 years ago) Bad pic, but shows the internal branching OK. I'm no Vaughn Banting however. I redesigned this about 15 years ago after pursuing an ill-considered Japanese triangle design. Not good for a long tall trunk like this one.