Soil mix

barrosinc

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Now that you know what is in it... why not buy the ingredients at the size you want and mix it yourself?
 

Anthony

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Oh forgot this,

problem may not necessarily be soil, but 2 other factors.
[1] Bare rooting - we bare root only to get rid of heavy soil or poor mixes. Once the 5 mm inorganic has gone the heart of the root zone around the trunk, a core is allowed to develop. Repotting then becomes removal of 1/2 or 1" all around and then a light combing of the next 1" or so.

Recently checked on 30+ year old plants and no heavy roots were formed.

[2] Pots too deep or not enough drainage holes. If no winter or frost, a porous glazed pot [ bottom has no glaze underneath ] can be used. otherwise get some plastercene, turn pot over, make a ring of plastercene, press onto pot, fill with water and drill more holes.

Recovery time, no fertiliser for a month and watch watering, bright light zone for one week, or light morning sun.

Shape of inorganic, to be round or roundish, angular will lock together.

Organic goes through 3 stages - say- pine bark, has to decay to compost - loses size and shape, maybe become mush, next stage - compost, then finally humus.
Lastly dissolves away or washes out cleanly.
You really don't want anything other than compost. Compost to humus reshapes to larger round particles where there is space.
Roots also die and compost, especially fine feeder roots.
Good Day
Anthony

* You can also test - 5 mm Hydroponic fired clay - round pebbles.
Very light mix, you may need to tie the tree into the pot.

After one year, and being prepared for repotting - Fukien tea

IBC roots.JPG
 

Andrew Robson

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But what if you can't get these very easy?
What does the teacher say then?
Punt?
I can get these relatively easily, and so can anyone in the US.

For cheaper material I'm growing out I use more pumice, since it's pretty cheap.
 

Dav4

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I can get these relatively easily, and so can anyone in the US.

For cheaper material I'm growing out I use more pumice, since it's pretty cheap.
A 20 # bag of Akadama costs, on average, 35 to 40 bucks shipped....some people are barely willing or able to spend that on stock, so good luck getting them to spend it on soil. For those starting out or those on a budget (many of us are), there are cheaper and more readily sourced components, depending on where you live.
 

M. Frary

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I am ordering pumice and lava but from all I hear akadama isn't going to hold up in my climate. What then?
I can get these relatively easily, and so can anyone in the US.
And relatively easy is a relative term.
 

sorce

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I am ordering pumice and lava but from all I hear akadama isn't going to hold up in my climate. What then?

And relatively easy is a relative term.

8822. I actually believe this would be an excellent mix. As the smaller 8822 will allow more held water. Almost equal to broken down akadama without the mush!

Sorce
 

M. Frary

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No comment
What if you couldn't afford these components?
You wouldn't be doing bonsai? Would you be able to afford good stock or a teacher? Not everyone is priveledged and can afford great stock or the fancy soil componenets. Even cheap pots are hard to get.
Should these people just give up on a great hobby?
What would you do if you had to work for a living,pay rent,car payments,etc.
Give up or figure out what you can use that costs less?
 

Dav4

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No comment.... :)
Good!! You shouldn't comment until you've walked the walk of those who don't have 1000's of dollars to spend on bonsai related things. Those of us that have been doing this for a while understand the fairly linear relationship between the cost of stock and it's quality....but if you tell folks new to the hobby that they HAVE to buy expensive stock and they HAVE to buy expensive imported soil, you'll immediately sour bonsai to many of them. I've used turface as a soil component for almost 20 years. It's worked fine for me and, despite the fact that I'll be using some akadama in the future, I'll continue to use turface...because it's very cost effective and does what I need it to do. The more people in the hobby, the better, even if they have cheap nursery stock and turface in their soil.
 

M. Frary

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8822. I actually believe this would be an excellent mix. As the smaller 8822 will allow more held water. Almost equal to broken down akadama without the mush!

Sorce

The smaller particles will probably plug up the open spaces made from the larger particle size of the other two.
 

Dav4

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What if you couldn't afford these components?
You wouldn't be doing bonsai? Would you be able to afford good stock or a teacher? Not everyone is priveledged and can afford great stock or the fancy soil componenets. Even cheap pots are hard to get.
Should these people just give up on a great hobby?
What would you do if you had to work for a living,pay rent,car payments,etc.
Give up or figure out what you can use that costs less?
You were typing faster then me because I was eating at the same time...
 

sorce

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The smaller particles will probably plug up the open spaces made from the larger particle size of the other two.

That is how akadama works!

Perfect! Plus I think the pumice and lava is holey enough to allow plenty of air.

I think that's why the PLA mix works so well!

Sorce
 

M. Frary

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I'll probably order a bag of bonsai jack bonsai block too.
Probably try akadama too. I need to see for myself if it will work. If it does then I more than likely use it.
And bonsai block. And haydite. There is too much conflicting info on soil that I like to make up my own mind.
 

coh

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Didn't we just have this exact same debate in a different thread, a few days ago? Has that much changed in such a short period of time?

Maybe it's time to start arguing about colanders again. Or fertilizer. I hear that organic fertilizer makes branches more flexible. True or false?
 

Andrew Robson

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I'm thinking of getting into golf, but I don't have $40 to spend on golf clubs, let alone golf balls. So I'm looking for a cheap alternative that will sort of work. Has anyone ever used marbles on the golf course?
 
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