Small Eastern Hemlock development

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

Eastern Hemlock is often overlooked as good material for bonsai. Where I live (5b) they are quite vigorous growers, heal extremely fast and are the most shade tolerant of all the conifers. This allows for small, dense foliage pads with less risk of die-back for shaded inner growth. Material collected in the shade is better. They do not bud back on old wood and collected material still has needles closer to the trunk. Nursery material is often grown in full sun and becomes so dense that inner growth dies off.
This tree was collected in spring 2014. The native soil was washed off and put into a mix of med sized akadama and charcoal. The majority of the trunk (approx. 3 ft.)was chopped and a small branch was wired up to become a new leader. There is a larger trunk chop (1-1/2") in the back of the tree. This picture was taken in July 2014 and you can plenty of new growth.

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

This was taken Apr. 21, 2015. Notice how much wood was put on that small skinny branch which is now a vigorous top. The problem is the branch to the left of it....two leaders. The other problem is there is not any branches below it, so I don't want to cut it off. The second pic has an arrow showing a small wedge that was removed with a saw and cleaned with a sharp chisel. The 3rd pic is the new branch wire in place so the cadmium is put into contact. This will be completely healed in one growing season. I have done this with 2" dia. branches cut 80% through and still heal in one season. You must cut 90 degrees to the branch for the geometry to work in lining up the bark.

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

This is over all pic and a rule for scale. Pic was taken June 15 2015. It has been repotted with a lower soil line to expose the nebari. The top was allowed to grow rank and lower branches pinched or cut back to just a few needles.

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

Collected hemlocks always seem to have a naked side which many times seems to be the obvious front. They also put out long thin secondary growth which works quite well to place for approach grafts. These were done in July 2015. A small grove is cut into the trunk and branch is held in place with a small staple pushed in then cover with cut paste. Be careful not to damage the bark of the scion (?) with the staple. The arrow is pointing to what will become the new leader after the sacrificial top has help everything below it to heal and give better taper to the trunk.

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

This is pic is from March 17, 2016. I have already lopped off 10" of the leader. They are vigorous grower. Notice how that skinny little branch from #1 post is almost the correct taper. The original trunk chop is almost completely healed. I've started to prune the lower branches fairly hard to keep it chased back. They can easily get away from you and it's time to start ramification. This arrow is pointing at a branch which is too vertical for my taste and is to thick to bend down.

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

Pic 1 is sawing into the branch just as before. Pic #2 is cleaning the saw cut with a sharp gouge. This smooth cut allows for better flow for the matching halves once reconnected. This also slightly hollows the center section of the branch and gives better contact for the cadmium. The scar to the right of the saw is from a failed approach last year.

Look how much it has healed already.

This branch was big enough that it required a turnbuckle to pull it into place...pic #3. The cuts will be covered the putty type of cut paste so as not to push it in too far and disrupt the flow.

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

Here we are as of today. We'll see what tomorrow brings.

Cadillactaste · Apr 3, 2016

Wow...impressive...looks like it's a giving material for bonsai. Now, I do like Steve's virtual. Creating the entire tree off that one lower branch. (On my hemlock thread) Making it much smaller material. Which I like.

So my first question most likely of many...
How do I go about thickening that branch...and adding ramification? I read trimming in the summer from that one site I attached. But...my local nursery claims it's false information to say you can't notice eastern hemlock's new growth. So I'm not sure how much of the info found there I wish to store away in my mental vault.

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

Cadillactaste said:
Wow...impressive...looks like it's a giving material for bonsai. Now, I do like Steve's virtual. Creating the entire tree off that one lower branch. (On my hemlock thread) Making it much smaller material. Which I like.

So my first question most likely of many...
How do I go about thickening that branch...and adding ramification? I read trimming in the summer from that one site I attached. But...my local nursery claims it's false information to say you can't notice eastern hemlock's new growth. So I'm not sure how much of the info found there I wish to store away in my mental vault.

The best to thicken any branch is to let grow, just as I'm doing with my leader. You'll have to keep tabs on the growth so that it doesn't get away from you. By this I mean growth that closer to the trunk can become weak if the tip gets to strong. Balance!! I think you;ll first have to get yours in some good open soil. Look like potting mix it's in now. Read post #1.

Cadillactaste · Apr 3, 2016

ABCarve said:
The best to thicken any branch is to let grow, just as I'm doing with my leader. You'll have to keep tabs on the growth so that it doesn't get away from you. By this I mean growth that closer to the trunk can become weak if the tip gets to strong. Balance!! I think you;ll first have to get yours in some good open soil. Look like potting mix it's in now. Read post #1.

Your mix is half and half? Yes...it's still in the soil it came in. Since your collecting would now be the appropriate time to report a hemlock? I know it's good for junipers...if so...will place an order for akadamea. Is it listed "medium" when ordering? I've only purchased premixed substrate. I'm assuming the coal you mention is from a pet store for aquarium filters...if incorrect please advice where one can locate it.

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

http://www.hollowcreekbonsai.com/ec...medium-akadama-bonsai-soil-14-liter-bag.rhtml
http://www.amazon.com/Hoffman-17502...719461&sr=8-1&keywords=horticultural+charcoal
Handful of charcoal for a potful of soil. I use it.......could be like Superthrive*!!???

Cadillactaste · Apr 3, 2016

ABCarve said:
http://www.hollowcreekbonsai.com/ec...medium-akadama-bonsai-soil-14-liter-bag.rhtml
http://www.amazon.com/Hoffman-17502...719461&sr=8-1&keywords=horticultural+charcoal
Handful of charcoal for a potful of soil. I use it.......could be like Superthrive*!!???

AWESOME! Thanks so much...

ABCarve · Apr 3, 2016

The more sun the faster the development.

Cadillactaste · Apr 3, 2016

ABCarve said:
The more sun the faster the development.

Really...I thought these needed shade. Wow...that surprised me.

Underdog · Apr 3, 2016

Great job on the tree and the thread! Thank you!
This is exactly why why I joined this site

Brian Van Fleet · Apr 3, 2016

@Cadillactaste ...
Medium akadama is REALLY big for your size of trees. You should know this before you order. I have some good-sized trees, but don't use much medium, except for big junipers in 20"+ pots, and for black pines as drainage layer. Everything else gets small, which is slightly larger, on average, than Turface.

Here is small and medium grain akadama, side by side:

And a few grains of medium:

If you're moving to akadama, learn how to secure trees in their pots so they are really stable.

Dav4 · Apr 3, 2016

Cadillactaste said:
Really...I thought these needed shade. Wow...that surprised me.

Shade tolerant means they can survive in low light areas where others might not. It's a survival mechanism but not a requirement for survival. Down here in GA, I've got azaleas, yews, Japanese maples and hemlocks- all "shade tolerant" species, growing in full sun, and they love it.

Cadillactaste · Apr 3, 2016

Brian Van Fleet said:
@Cadillactaste ...
Medium akadama is REALLY big for your size of trees. You should know this before you order. I have some good-sized trees, but don't use much medium, except for big junipers in 20"+ pots, and for black pines as drainage layer. Everything else gets small, which is slightly larger, on average, than Turface.

Here is small and medium grain akadama, side by side:
View attachment 100142
And a few grains of medium:
View attachment 100145
If you're moving to akadama, learn how to secure trees in their pots so they are really stable.

The planter pot it's in...is 15 1/2" across just went and measured it. So your thinking small size then. Yes...I wire all my tree in to their pots. Only planning on buying it for this tree. Need an appropriate mix for the hemlock.

I do appreciate the heads up thought. Thanks!

JoeR · Apr 3, 2016

Dav4 said:
Shade tolerant means they can survive in low light areas where others might not. It's a survival mechanism but not a requirement for survival. Down here in GA, I've got azaleas, yews, Japanese maples and hemlocks- all "shade tolerant" species, growing in full sun, and they love it.

You can grow Japanese maples in full sun in GA without having the leaves crisp?

Whats your secret?

Dav4 · Apr 3, 2016

JoeR said:
You can grow Japanese maples in full sun in GA without having the leaves crisp?

Whats your secret?

No secret. I've got 3 or 4 varieties growing on a south facing hill with thin crappy soil...they do fine

Small Eastern Hemlock development

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