It also appears as though most of them are unglazed.And, by the way, the "flower show" school appears to favor the round deeper pots. I agree that yours is mounded WAY too high.
Hey Don, it indeed has been in deeper pots in the past, and will indeed be in one again. One was a drum ,3 inches deep and before that a 4 inch deep rectangle. Thanks a million for your input! By the way , within the last several weeks, I saw one of yours.............would love to own that one! Don't recall the cultivar, I think it was nearly 4 feet in height.Generally, Satsuki do better in deeper pots. Roots stay cooler and moist longer. Plus, I'm not a fan of mounded soil. Your trunk thickness and tree design does lend itself to that pot style/look (but not color) though.
Hey Adair, thanks so much for taking the time to comment and the great info. Indeed many years ago this tree was one of 25 or 30 whips trained and developed by my great friend Duane Clayburn. It was around 10 years old at the time. Some shorter with more curves, tall with more pronounced curves, good variety overall. I wanted one with more upright form and gentle curves. Duane was a top flight propagator with a serious bent towards bonsai, all sorts of stuff. Very wide variety. Thinking back, I wish I'd have purchased more. There are a number of Satsuki's that I bought from him untrained and made my own whips. I may show one or two of those later. I took a break from working on one my Kogetsu to do these responses. Between Duane and a few other sources, I had collected 26 cultivars. I'm down to 9 now, with 7 for bonsai. Also ended up with 2 imports, Nikko and Kinsai, that several years later died. I HATED losing those two. They take a long time to develop. The Kogetsu I'm working on now is still in a grow container. Concerning the Wakaebisu, the plan is to allow the pads to get a little thicker from branch bottom to top of foliage, still want to maintain space though. I've always seen it that way. So I think we agree if I'm hearing you correctly. Just wish the trunk was an inch or so thicker. Will keep height and width the same, just thicken those pads a little more. With a number of places where the branches conceal parts of the trunk. In fact, if you notice, it's already happening. A nicely rounded top should finish it off. And a deeper pot! I've seen that large one that you posted, I dare say that it's an old garden tree that was lifted a put through the process. I've seen many of those over the years.........what an impact !! Even without blossoms. Thanks again Sir for your input!!!Steve,
There's several "schools" of satsuki bonsai. One school has it that the purpose of satsuki is the flower show is foremost. The other school has it that satsuki make good bonsai, and they just happen to flower.
Your tree appears to fall smack dab in the middle! Between the two schools!
At this point, however, I think training it like the "flower display" school is the better option.
Here are examples of what I mean:
View attachment 103335
See how they're tall and somewhat columnar? That's what you have. When these are grown, they start with a whip, and wire them to have curves when the ship is flexible. Your trunk is not at all flexible, and it's very straight in sections. The more you can hide it, the better.
I would try to develop branches with dense pads, allowing them to obscure the trunk in several places.
The branches you have are spaced. The better for showing the flowers.
An example of the other school would be like this:
View attachment 103337
This tree has a more impressive, massive, tapering trunk. Traditionally developed branches, and the flowering is reduced to being an accent rather than the dominant feature.
I don't think your tree lends itself to this style as well as it does the other.
Thank you so much Miss Judy. I think we all agree, a deeper pot it is! It actually has been in deeper pots in the past.Beautiful image. I agree with most about the shallow pot, I think it would enhance the tree to have a deeper pot.
I gotta admit, I'm fond of unglazed containers. Love some of the newer stuff out there pottery wise, but generally speaking I like more subdued tones. Having said that, I've got a lot to learn about pots!It also appears as though most of them are unglazed.
What happened to my paragraphs?Hey Adair, thanks so much for taking the time to comment and the great info. Indeed many years ago this tree was one of 25 or 30 whips trained and developed by my great friend Duane Clayburn. It was around 10 years old at the time. Some shorter with more curves, tall with more pronounced curves, good variety overall. I wanted one with more upright form and gentle curves. Duane was a top flight propagator with a serious bent towards bonsai, all sorts of stuff. Very wide variety. Thinking back, I wish I'd have purchased more. There are a number of Satsuki's that I bought from him untrained and made my own whips. I may show one or two of those later. I took a break from working on one my Kogetsu to do these responses. Between Duane and a few other sources, I had collected 26 cultivars. I'm down to 9 now, with 7 for bonsai. Also ended up with 2 imports, Nikko and Kinsai, that several years later died. I HATED losing those two. They take a long time to develop. The Kogetsu I'm working on now is still in a grow container. Concerning the Wakaebisu, the plan is to allow the pads to get a little thicker from branch bottom to top of foliage, still want to maintain space though. I've always seen it that way. So I think we agree if I'm hearing you correctly. Just wish the trunk was an inch or so thicker. Will keep height and width the same, just thicken those pads a little more. With a number of places where the branches conceal parts of the trunk. In fact, if you notice, it's already happening. A nicely rounded top should finish it off. And a deeper pot! I've seen that large one that you posted, I dare say that it's an old garden tree that was lifted a put through the process. I've seen many of those over the years.........what an impact !! Even without blossoms. Thanks again Sir for your input!!!
I find this to be true for most kinds of azalea and rhododendron. I interpret the reason to be that they don't cope well with the saturation zone at the bottom of a pot (i.e., a deeper pot gives a deeper unsaturated zone of substrate). If so, this would mean they need to be drier (i.e., use a coarser substrate, the shallower the pot). This might be because oxygen adsorption in the azalea/rhodo root matt is inherently 'difficult'.Generally, Satsuki do better in deeper pots. Roots stay cooler and moist longer.
I'm in this camp. I have hawthorns. They are supposed to flower too. I could care less if a bloom ever shows itself. I would promptly pull it off for the health of the tree. Would worry it would suck too much energy setting my tree back.I know....the flowers....blah blah blah....
I like trees. Flower shows are for Grandma!
I find this to be true for most kinds of azalea and rhododendron. I interpret the reason to be that they don't cope well with the saturation zone at the bottom of a pot (i.e., a deeper pot gives a deeper unsaturated zone of substrate). If so, this would mean they need to be drier (i.e., use a coarser substrate, the shallower the pot). This might be because oxygen adsorption in the azalea/rhodo root matt is inherently 'difficult'.
I can't think of too many situations where intolerance is fashionable.From what I've been told, in Japan, many of the bonsai "purists" would never consider an azalea "bonsai".
We, of course, don't make such a distinction.
I've heard that in the past. One of the reasons I've heard is that they are too easy. I haven't found that to be the case. I don't know how things are currently as I'm fairly far removed from mainstream bonsai, but I think that purism is limiting. I personally don't care what it is as long as it is a well executed design. I think that for American bonsai to prosper and come into it's own, that sort of thinking will have to go out the door. I don't know, just my thoughts about it. Not to make a big deal of it.From what I've been told, in Japan, many of the bonsai "purists" would never consider an azalea "bonsai".
We, of course, don't make such a distinction.
Oh, I'm not suggesting that we need to segregate ourselves bonsai on one side vs satsuki on the other. No, I just mention it because they do seem to do so in Japan.I've heard that in the past. One of the reasons I've heard is that they are too easy. I haven't found that to be the case. I don't know how things are currently as I'm fairly far removed from mainstream bonsai, but I think that purism is limiting. I personally don't care what it is as long as it is a well executed design. I think that for American bonsai to prosper and come into it's own, that sort of thinking will have to go out the door. I don't know, just my thoughts about it. Not to make a big deal of it.
Egads! They are grown for their blooms...$6,000 cuttings are worthless if one desecrated the mother tree. I guess...I'm a premature grandma...azalea when in bloom are lovely...a rare special treat on one's bench. Thus why they do showings of only azaleas as well is my thinking.1st pic sucks...
Second is better....
Third makes me think, with flowers...
1st pic might not suck...
But the quality of the pic still does!
View attachment 103223
I know....the flowers....blah blah blah....
I like trees. Flower shows are for Grandma!
Plus....you got like $6,000 worth of cutting to sell up there!
Sorce
Curious if it's because of the rules being bent to a degree to to allow a tanky tree to showcase the blooms.From what I've been told, in Japan, many of the bonsai "purists" would never consider an azalea "bonsai".
We, of course, don't make such a distinction.