ficus from cutting first defoliation
- Thread starter cpt
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RickMartin
Omono
Can this go outside..if it can expect buds to pop up everywhere. I defoliated mine in late june and it exploded. Not sure how they will bud indoors.
Rick
Rick
RickMartin
Omono
I should also mention mine is a willow leaf, not sure what yours is.
Rick
Rick
aml1014
Masterpiece
If this tree has been in that pot for a few years, it's grown REALLY slowly. As Rick said, put the tree outside anytime Temps are above 50°f. Also defoliation I'd a technique used for refined bonsai, your tree still need s long way to go before is in the refinement stage. Please refer to this thread below.
http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/the-phases-of-bonsai.24095/
Aaron
http://www.bonsainut.com/threads/the-phases-of-bonsai.24095/
Aaron
RickMartin
Omono
I defoilated mine to get more back budding.
Rick
Rick
aml1014
Masterpiece
I've learned it's best to let them grow strong then prune back hard for back budding, it's more reliable and healthy for the tree. Defoliation is removing all of the food production for the tree. By doing this and cutting back at the same the tree must now send out new branches by, yes, back budding. But the new growth is now much smaller which is good for a refined tree but not one in development, generally. Defoliation is a big stress to our little trees so we must make sure they are healthy and ready for it.
Aaron
RickMartin
Omono
Aaron
Please look at my ficus thread at the first photo. There was nothing to cut back. Just leaves on the end of a trunk line. Now i have buds everywhere. I know what to do and defoliating isnt what i wanted to do. I and members of my club at a work shop decided it should be done. Will i do it again. No not until refinement stage for this tree which will be about a year from now as im keeping him small.
Rick
aml1014
Masterpiece
I saw the thread. What I do in those situations is to let that weak tip get strong and grow vigorously, then I cut back hard. This gives me more taper, movement, and back buds up and down the trunk. Defoliation does work to get back buds, but as I said it weakens the tree.
Your mame will definitely be in refinement soon, but even my mame get 8 inches tall every year to get strong.
Aaron
RickMartin
Omono
I totally agree..thats what i was doing but i do trust the members of my club. It will be cut back from now on until refinement stage.
Rick
Rick
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eferguson1974
Chumono
Put it outside and let it grow.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Here's what I do to promote back budding on this kind of tree:
Step 1 - let it grow:
These guys should be outdoors and in full sun in the summer. If they have leaves that have been grown in the shade, expose them to full sun slowly or they'll burn. Mine grow in 100% Houston sun with no shade cloth. I have a couple of live oaks that shade my grow area in the morning and the evening - but they're in full sun from about 11am to 6pm. I'd give them more if I could.
Step 2: When it get's thick and full like this, I like to thin it out to let light into the interior. Prune away unneeded branches and remove all the old leaves to let light into the plant. Where you get 3-4 branches extending from old pruning cuts, thin to two horizontal branches.
See? Cut off the old leaves and leave the new ones - look how much more light gets to the interior when it's thinned out. No need to completely defoliate
Step 3: wire the keeper branches down to expose them to as much light as possible.
Step 4: let it grow - you'll get back budding all along those leggy branches. When the young shoots get strong enough, cut back the old branches to the young shoots. Doing this creates movement and taper and ramification in the branches. It will also induce more back budding in the interior of the tree.
Step 5: Rinse and repeat.
Over time you'll develop great mature branches with movement, taper and ramification. It's the same for all broadleaf trees, really, but ficus respond very well to this treatment and can develop pretty quickly.
Give it a try!
Scott
Step 1 - let it grow:
These guys should be outdoors and in full sun in the summer. If they have leaves that have been grown in the shade, expose them to full sun slowly or they'll burn. Mine grow in 100% Houston sun with no shade cloth. I have a couple of live oaks that shade my grow area in the morning and the evening - but they're in full sun from about 11am to 6pm. I'd give them more if I could.
Step 2: When it get's thick and full like this, I like to thin it out to let light into the interior. Prune away unneeded branches and remove all the old leaves to let light into the plant. Where you get 3-4 branches extending from old pruning cuts, thin to two horizontal branches.
See? Cut off the old leaves and leave the new ones - look how much more light gets to the interior when it's thinned out. No need to completely defoliate
Step 3: wire the keeper branches down to expose them to as much light as possible.
Step 4: let it grow - you'll get back budding all along those leggy branches. When the young shoots get strong enough, cut back the old branches to the young shoots. Doing this creates movement and taper and ramification in the branches. It will also induce more back budding in the interior of the tree.
Step 5: Rinse and repeat.
Over time you'll develop great mature branches with movement, taper and ramification. It's the same for all broadleaf trees, really, but ficus respond very well to this treatment and can develop pretty quickly.
Give it a try!
Scott
Last edited:
eferguson1974
Chumono
Good explanation!
