Literati Scots Pine

ysrgrathe · Oct 5, 2016

This is a workshop tree (Pinus sylvestris) that I've had for a couple of years. The first year it was pretty weak, but this year I fertilized heavily and got nice strong candles. I foresee cutting all but one branch off (I won't do this all at once!).

I included a terrible virt; my intent is to pull the remaining branch down 1/3-1/2 way to the soil line. Any thoughts? The branch opposite it has a better taper from the trunk, but it doesn't come off at a good angle to complement the gentle curve in the trunk. I think I'd have more luck with the smaller right branch; I'd want to pull it around the trunk about 60 degrees so that I can show the trunk from the angle of pic #1.

I know this isn't great material but I'd like to do my best with it.

ysrgrathe · Oct 5, 2016

Some inspiration:

Kimura, pinus densiflora

Adam ?, JBP (http://ibonsaiclub.forumotion.com/t5238-literati-black-pine-from-australia)

GGB · Oct 5, 2016

I think that's a fine plan. I had a JBP in this style for a while. I like the way it looks when the main rtunk is jinned above the whorl, giving it a dead wood peak. But thats obviously just personal opinion. Good luck with back budding on your new leader. My scot's back bud okay but not as great as JBP or Autrian

Wilson · Oct 6, 2016

Love the literati pine! You can get this tree looking amazing, just takes the time to achieve it right. Enjoy, and good luck!

ysrgrathe · Oct 7, 2016

Thanks for the feedback! This weekend I plan to bend the branch and do some major cuts. I think I will remove the smaller branch opposite my keeper, and reduce slightly the larger branch opposite as well as the apex. Does this seem like a reasonable plan? I would prefer to remove the larger branch opposite, but I think that is too much foliage lost at one time.

I also wanted to ask about how best to eventually remove the current apex. A technique I've been recommended to use on deciduous trees is to slowly cut through the trunk over multiple years, which allows robust callousing since there is still active growth in the apex. Once the final cut is made the wound is fairly small as a result. Is this appropriate for pines?

M. Frary · Oct 8, 2016

ysrgrathe said:
I also wanted to ask about how best to eventually remove the current apex

Lop it off.

ysrgrathe · Oct 8, 2016

Wired. I'll eventually remove the bottom branches entirely, possibly the middle branches as well if I get some good backbudding. The top 1/3 of the trunk is still too straight, I might try and get a good bend in that next year.

Any thoughts on my weird bracing technique? I drilled a small hole through the trunk and ran 18 gauge copper through. There is a small piece of EPDM rubber between the trunk and the brace.

Close-up of brace attachment:

Djtommy · Oct 8, 2016

You can remove the old needles, you should try to bend that first branch right at the base as severe as possible. Wiring the branches so the needles dont point down will make it look better soon too.
When you cut off the top i would go for a jin first so dont cut it off completely

ghues · Oct 8, 2016

Good start.....a long journey ahead.......for further inspiration check this link out.
https://crataegus.com/2016/10/06/history-of-a-bunjin-scots-pine/
Cheers G

dirk hoorelbeke · Oct 8, 2016

Initial bend needs to be more severe. Do not create an enclosed circle between your branch and the trunk. Try to have an open elegant space. Look at the negative space, it is more important than the foliage. Avoid the 90 degree angles in the secondary branches. Use bigger wires. Good start for this tree. Compare with the examples, search the differences.

ysrgrathe · Oct 9, 2016

I see what you mean about the branch angle Djtommy and Dirk -- thanks. Can you elaborate on how you would place the secondary branches?

I know the wire is too small for the vertical sections of the secondary branches -- I wasn't attempting to move those, just align the buds. I'm not really sure what I'm doing in building the pads here, was hoping it would become more clear when the buds pop.

dirk hoorelbeke · Oct 9, 2016

It is not an easy style to do. You will not have a finished image for years. Envision this tree in nature. The lowest tuft of foliage would die, no need for the tree to support this. Add more movement, start the secondary branches in a small angle. Let them grow almost horizontal. And in a logical direction. Try that they don't originate in the inside of the curve. The bottom pad is important. Must be somehow horizontal. It encloses the empty space and sort of balances the tree. I don't know if the bow in the trunk it the best option, it makes it more artificial. The trunk lacks age and shari to be interesting enough for a literati. Will take years, but at the end might come all together.

dirk hoorelbeke · Oct 9, 2016

This is how i see it. The branches to make it are not there, and it is not easy to get them there, but not impossible. Make it for now wider and work on the backbudding.

ghues · Oct 9, 2016

As Dirk mentioned.......Not easy and hard to replicate what a harsh environment can do to a tree......however they can be fun..... Some of the shapes are very hard to duplicate.......Example of one recently collected shore Pine.

Literati Scots Pine

ysrgrathe

Shohin

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