Proper Wound Treatment

Redwood Ryan · Dec 14, 2016

Hi Nuts,

I've always wondered how you properly treat the wounds you create on trees. I don't mean the fresh wounds, but rather the older ones that were created some time ago. Here's an example:

These are wounds on a Ficus. Will these wounds continue to close up? Or will I have to recut the wounds to get the cambium to roll over again?

Once that's done, should I clean the wood inside of the wounds? As in, should I remove the rotted wood and lichen?

I've always worried that if you don't remove all of the rotting wood before a wound closes, that it'll spread through the tree.

Any comments are welcome and appreciated!

Ryan

sorce · Dec 14, 2016

I think they just need a clean uninhabited surface.

I'd smooth or down some and throw the loctite GO2 glue over all the exposed wood.

It is really amazing.

Sorce

MichaelS · Dec 14, 2016

As you probably know, Ficus have very soft wood which rots easily so if they are not sealed immediately after cutting there is a chance rot will set in. There's really no way of predicting if you seal it that the rot will stop. You can clean it out thoroughly until you find clean tissue and then paint the inside with a mixture of copper sulphate and calcium hydroxide, then fill with some kind of wood filler and finally seal it with wax or bonsai sealer. Cutting around the edge will help close it but it must be sealed from the air so the newly exposed cambium will continue to move.
The alternative is to clean it out and leave it open and let nature take it's coarse. You may find the rot slowly continues over a few years and you end up with a hollow branch/tree.
Something like this:

Either way, the tree won't be harmed as the live part is just under the bark. The maple above is still alive and kicking.

Anthony · Dec 14, 2016

Michael,

here is one for you. Ficus Natasha, died and left behind one side of the trunk alive.
This side then sealed off the rotted section and started off as a new tree.
Today it is healthy and it is interesting to watch it remake a whole new trunk.
A will to live.

To heal a ficus wound, keep the are stimulated ------------ branch extension, but then the tree thickens.
So we keep the wounds small - [ ] - around this size.
Merry Christmas
Anthony

Paradox · Dec 14, 2016

You can also open up the callus around the inner edge of the roll and put would sealant on it. It will stimulate the callus to keep moving/healing and closing the wound.

I do this every year on my Trident Maple that has a few large wounds. I have a birch that will get the same treatment next year.

sorce · Dec 15, 2016

I've never witnessed rewounding a ficus work.

Really never had anything big close till them roots hit the earth.

Energy goes to new branches....

Excess energy goes to wounds.

IMO.

Sorce

JoeR · Dec 15, 2016

MichaelS said:
As you probably know, Ficus have very soft wood which rots easily so if they are not sealed immediately after cutting there is a chance rot will set in. There's really no way of predicting if you seal it that the rot will stop. You can clean it out thoroughly until you find clean tissue and then paint the inside with a mixture of copper sulphate and calcium hydroxide, then fill with some kind of wood filler and finally seal it with wax or bonsai sealer. Cutting around the edge will help close it but it must be sealed from the air so the newly exposed cambium will continue to move.
The alternative is to clean it out and leave it open and let nature take it's coarse. You may find the rot slowly continues over a few years and you end up with a hollow branch/tree.
Something like this:

View attachment 125959

Either way, the tree won't be harmed as the live part is just under the bark. The maple above is still alive and kicking.

Am I the only one dying to see a picture?

thats one crazy looking tree

namnhi · Dec 15, 2016

I am willing to bet... if you just leave them alone. With time that area will be close.

Mellow Mullet · Dec 15, 2016

I had some larger wounds on my needle leaf ficus that took years to close, but they eventually did. The exposed wood looked just like yours and it still healed. On the larger ones I would cut the callous on the inside whenever it seemed to stop growing.

John

fredman · Dec 15, 2016

JoeR said:
Am I the only one dying to see a picture? thats one crazy looking tree

Me to. I woke up last night with it staring at me. Mike please show us a update picture.
Somebody plz link Michael'S name so he can see it...I don't know how to do it

JoeR · Dec 15, 2016

fredman said:
Me to. I woke up last night with it staring at me. Mike please show us a update picture.
Somebody plz link Michael'S name so he can see it...I don't know how to do it

All you do is add "@" before their name, and then you should be able to click it- like so @MichaelS

fredman · Dec 15, 2016

Cheers Joe

Such a damn simple thing and it has been baffling me for soooo long

fredman · Dec 15, 2016

MichaelS said:
The maple above is still alive and kicking.

Please show us an update pic Mike...

MichaelS · Dec 15, 2016

Ok here you go....
It's Acer ginnala, defoliated about 1 month ago. 18 (?) months after that bare root pic above.
It's nothing much without leaves yet. That will take another 8 years I reckon.
The wood inside was cleaned out as much as possible without the tree falling to bits, and then ''sealed'' with cut paste (out of the tube) The rot was completely natural as a result of die back after heavy pruning. I just basically removed the soft rot.

Solange · Dec 15, 2016

Yep.. i like that a lot Michael!

fredman · Dec 15, 2016

Man I cant stop looking at it. There is a lot of character developing right there. Would love to see it in 10 yrs time. You think the thinner "ribs" will eventually heal and form new cambium all-round?

Potawatomi13 · Dec 16, 2016

Yep. Dead wood good most any kind of tree. If some don't like too bad

!

Anthony · Dec 16, 2016

Michael,

that is a beautiful effort !
Thanks for showing
Merrrrrrrrryyyyyyyyyyyyyyy
Anthony

MichaelS · Dec 16, 2016

fredman said:
Man I cant stop looking at it. There is a lot of character developing right there. Would love to see it in 10 yrs time. You think the thinner "ribs" will eventually heal and form new cambium all-round?

I don't know. In theory yes, in practice...???

fredman · Dec 16, 2016

MichaelS said:
I don't know. In theory yes, in practice...???

I guess the outsides will soldier on and cover well. The insides because of light restrictions will find it harder. You treated the areas with copper sulphate and calcium hydroxide as you mentioned above? What does the mixture do? What ratio?

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