wireme
Masterpiece
Yeah, should be, give it a Google. I got some from lee valley years ago. Used it a few times, seemed to work well.
Anybody interested in some red cedar slabs?
- Thread starter Eric Group
- Start date
Yeah, should be, give it a Google. I got some from lee valley years ago. Used it a few times, seemed to work well.
Eric Group
Masterpiece
Yeah, I just went and googled it! Seems pretty common, but not real cheap... if there are more large pieces worth taking from that downed tree in my parent's yard I may buy some of this stuff one day!
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
The ones I see the most are wild cherry.
Eric Group
Masterpiece
Certainly not a rare tree, but interesting shapes/ grains could make for something cool... never cut one of those, is there any color in there?
Eric Group
Masterpiece
Ok, got some 400, resanded a few, took some raw ones and sanded them down- Got 4-5 more burl pieces and fixed a few I did previously I think!
These haven't been lacquered yet..
These haven't been lacquered yet..
Eric Group
Masterpiece
Now posted on FB- $.99 Bonsai page. Opening bid price is much lower than listed here, can't post there with duplicate listings on other sites so if anyone is interested at this point in either of the first two, I will refer to those listings! We will see if there are any takers!
justBonsai
Omono
This is just my opinion, but "cheap" wood with a good finish is superior to expensive wood with poor finishing. I like the pieces above and the one you posted in the facebook auction but the finish looks poor to me. In part it may be from the harsh direct lighting which exposes more flaws but these slabs should have a very smooth consistent finish. As far as a gloss to matte look vs a mirror finish that's personal preference. Either way I don't want any texturing from the wood or the lacquer to appear on the surface. Maybe those 400 grit ones will turn out better.
Generally the higher polish you want to go the better the job you have to do in the lower grits--meaning removing any tooling marks or scratches. Otherwise any defects in the wood finish and coat will show very easily. For instance if I'm sharpening a knife and polishing the bevels I need to do a very thorough job on my low grit waterstones. Otherwise when I get to my 4k+ abrasives it will look like crap. The same goes for finishing wood.
Here is a piece of manzanita burl. Nothing special I think it was only sanded around 200 grit sandpaper or so then coated with danish oil. It was given a matte finish so in most lighting it looks very clean. Here in direct sun you can see some tooling marks though. If I were to apply a lacquer on this those marks would even show out more.
Generally the higher polish you want to go the better the job you have to do in the lower grits--meaning removing any tooling marks or scratches. Otherwise any defects in the wood finish and coat will show very easily. For instance if I'm sharpening a knife and polishing the bevels I need to do a very thorough job on my low grit waterstones. Otherwise when I get to my 4k+ abrasives it will look like crap. The same goes for finishing wood.
Here is a piece of manzanita burl. Nothing special I think it was only sanded around 200 grit sandpaper or so then coated with danish oil. It was given a matte finish so in most lighting it looks very clean. Here in direct sun you can see some tooling marks though. If I were to apply a lacquer on this those marks would even show out more.
M. Frary
Bonsai Godzilla
Pink and White.
Looks like a nicely marbled piece of beef.
Eric Group
Masterpiece
Yeah the harsh light really makes it look like there is a heavy grain through the lacquer but there is not. They are smooth to the touch...This is just my opinion, but "cheap" wood with a good finish is superior to expensive wood with poor finishing. I like the pieces above and the one you posted in the facebook auction but the finish looks poor to me. In part it may be from the harsh direct lighting which exposes more flaws but these slabs should have a very smooth consistent finish. As far as a gloss to matte look vs a mirror finish that's personal preference. Either way I don't want any texturing from the wood or the lacquer to appear on the surface. Maybe those 400 grit ones will turn out better.
Generally the higher polish you want to go the better the job you have to do in the lower grits--meaning removing any tooling marks or scratches. Otherwise any defects in the wood finish and coat will show very easily. For instance if I'm sharpening a knife and polishing the bevels I need to do a very thorough job on my low grit waterstones. Otherwise when I get to my 4k+ abrasives it will look like crap. The same goes for finishing wood.
Here is a piece of manzanita burl. Nothing special I think it was only sanded around 200 grit sandpaper or so then coated with danish oil. It was given a matte finish so in most lighting it looks very clean. Here in direct sun you can see some tooling marks though. If I were to apply a lacquer on this those marks would even show out more.
I am trying to get a thicker layer to mimic an old piece I have had for a long time but I was told the stuff used on that piece was a "faux lacquer"- whatever the Hell that is! I can't find it at any stores in my area... I saw it online before, guess I just need to break down one order some. It creates a thicker layer and smoother finish, sealing the wood and making that mirror/ glass finish.
What a beautiful slab! I wish I knew where this was for sale, I would love these types of work pieces in my woodshop.This is just my opinion, but "cheap" wood with a good finish is superior to expensive wood with poor finishing. I like the pieces above and the one you posted in the facebook auction but the finish looks poor to me. In part it may be from the harsh direct lighting which exposes more flaws but these slabs should have a very smooth consistent finish. As far as a gloss to matte look vs a mirror finish that's personal preference. Either way I don't want any texturing from the wood or the lacquer to appear on the surface. Maybe those 400 grit ones will turn out better.
Generally the higher polish you want to go the better the job you have to do in the lower grits--meaning removing any tooling marks or scratches. Otherwise any defects in the wood finish and coat will show very easily. For instance if I'm sharpening a knife and polishing the bevels I need to do a very thorough job on my low grit waterstones. Otherwise when I get to my 4k+ abrasives it will look like crap. The same goes for finishing wood.
Here is a piece of manzanita burl. Nothing special I think it was only sanded around 200 grit sandpaper or so then coated with danish oil. It was given a matte finish so in most lighting it looks very clean. Here in direct sun you can see some tooling marks though. If I were to apply a lacquer on this those marks would even show out more.
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