continued.
Life cycle - they are long lived shrubs, my blueberry farm (well, partly mine) has a few acres of highbush blueberries that were planted more than 50 years ago and they are the best producers on the farm. They will live ''forever'' in theory. But the normal habit is to send up a long whip from the roots, in year one, second & third year it branches and continues to grow. The fourth year the shoot begins flowering, each year adding more ramification, more flowers, but as the ramification goes up fruit gets smaller. Eventually, around 20 - 30 years the branch will get ''senile'', the root system will abandon the older cane or trunk in favor of a newer shoot. To keep an old branch, to seve as your main trunk, you must get rid of new shoots from the roots the first or second year. If you do this, they will keep their style for quite a while. But if it does ''abandon'' an old trunk on you don't be surprised, plan on regular replacements every now and then, by letting one new shoot develop.
Most will set fruit without cross pollination. Better fruit set when you have multiple varieties. A 25 gallon nursery pot is big enough to grow a blueberry to full size, and get 4 to 10 pounds of fruit per bush.
Fertilizer - blueberries prefer ammonia over nitrates. Use ammonium sulfate at 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. Or various manures. (farm or feed stores carry ammonium sulfate) Don't use a fertilizer that supplements calcium, the MSU formulas and the Dynagrow, and Peters Cal-Mag all have too much calcium and may kill your blueberry. Mira-acid fertilizer for acid loving plants is good, it has some ammonia, some sulfur, and no calcium.
Hope these tips help. Blueberries are easy if you get the soil right.