Eric Group
Masterpiece
Man you are putting in work on your Junipers lately Marky!! Looking good...
California juniper in the (almost) tropics
- Thread starter markyscott
- Start date
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Out of the box! Finally! A bit of an angle change as well. I used wedges to adjust the angle while the tree was in the box, marked the position with a wire and plumb, and then repotted at the new angle. This tree is approaching it's final form.
thomas22
Chumono
I like everything but the furthest left branch. IMO, I think it needs to be pulled closer to the trunk and shortened a bit. I think that branch the way it is throws off the balance and makes the tree look like it wants to fall over to the left. I would keep the foliage tight to the trunk on the left and have the foliage go down and away from the trunk on the right which is how you have it. Just something to think about.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Last edited:
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Some deadwood work. I may want to show this tree in a couple of years at the state convention. So I'd like to work the wood now to give it time to age a bit before exhibiting the tree.
One thing that bugs me is the smooth shari - it looks young. It is young. So I thought it might be a good opportunity to talk about deadwood work on junipers. A couple of great references are:
Bonsai Deadwood by Francois Jeker, and
Bonsai Shari Si-Dao V1,2 by Cheng Kung Cheng
Both of these books emphasize the use of hand tools rather over power tools for the work. that really resonates with me as I don't like using power tools unless it can't be avoided. First, I think that the hand carving looks a lot more natural, particularly with junipers. And second, I'm scared to death of those die-grinders - those things are whirling blades of death just waiting to cut my arm off. I have them. I've used them before, but I'd prefer not too unless I have to. And besides, with junipers there is absolutely no need.
One thing that bugs me is the smooth shari - it looks young. It is young. So I thought it might be a good opportunity to talk about deadwood work on junipers. A couple of great references are:
Bonsai Deadwood by Francois Jeker, and
Bonsai Shari Si-Dao V1,2 by Cheng Kung Cheng
Both of these books emphasize the use of hand tools rather over power tools for the work. that really resonates with me as I don't like using power tools unless it can't be avoided. First, I think that the hand carving looks a lot more natural, particularly with junipers. And second, I'm scared to death of those die-grinders - those things are whirling blades of death just waiting to cut my arm off. I have them. I've used them before, but I'd prefer not too unless I have to. And besides, with junipers there is absolutely no need.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
One doesn't need to many tools. This is the main tool for me:
It has a pretty sharp tip. You can use a sharpened screw driver or chisel, but I really like the angled blade. It needs to be strong - you'll end up putting a lot of stress on the tip, so good steel and a reinforced connection to the handle is important.
I also use a big pair of concave cutters and root cutters as well as a good pair of pliers. Thats pretty much it.
It has a pretty sharp tip. You can use a sharpened screw driver or chisel, but I really like the angled blade. It needs to be strong - you'll end up putting a lot of stress on the tip, so good steel and a reinforced connection to the handle is important.
I also use a big pair of concave cutters and root cutters as well as a good pair of pliers. Thats pretty much it.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
All your work should be with the grain. It's a slow process. Insert your blade into the wood like this and then pull the fibers outward to lift them.
The wood will split and break a the blade. Then, with your fingers or the pliers, pull the fibers downward or upward with the grain and remove them. The fibers should tear along the grain and you can seperate long strips from the jin or shari.
The wood will split and break a the blade. Then, with your fingers or the pliers, pull the fibers downward or upward with the grain and remove them. The fibers should tear along the grain and you can seperate long strips from the jin or shari.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
You're looking for the surface of the shari to be uneven. Some of the fibers should be deep and some shallow. Some areas just leave alone to give the surface of the shari a grooved appearance. Over time, water and soil will enter these grooves, preferentially eroding the soft bits and aging the work that you've done. See? Here's a deep groove. The softer bits will be easier to stick your blade into and remove.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Try to enhance what's already there, rather than carve new features. The new features will always look artificial, but judicious removal of wood can become more natural looking over time. California juniper are susceptible to termites and mine is no exception. These rascals can carve out some pretty deep cavities into the wood. When you encounter them, you can build them into the surface features your building at the same time. Open the cavities and incorporate the deep valleys of termite damage into the surface features you're building on the jin and shari.
I've always liked holes in the jin as well - something that you can see through to observe features behind the tree or an otherwise obscured portion of trunk or foliage. So you can see here that I've enhanced the termite cavity, carving it more deeply so that it's now a window through the jin. That's cool - and adds interest to an otherwise featureless piece of deadwood.
I've always liked holes in the jin as well - something that you can see through to observe features behind the tree or an otherwise obscured portion of trunk or foliage. So you can see here that I've enhanced the termite cavity, carving it more deeply so that it's now a window through the jin. That's cool - and adds interest to an otherwise featureless piece of deadwood.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
As you slowly work the deadwood, the valleys caused by removal of the fibers should merge producing the grooved surface I mentioned earlier.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Just continue working it. Only work the new and smooth deadwood. Leave the old stuff alone and don't touch it.
If you're finding that the wood isn't lifting very well or if the fibers aren't separating, you may need to moisten the deadwood. Just wrap or tie wet towels on it overnight and you'll find that the fibers seperate more cleanly the following day.
If you're finding that the wood isn't lifting very well or if the fibers aren't separating, you may need to moisten the deadwood. Just wrap or tie wet towels on it overnight and you'll find that the fibers seperate more cleanly the following day.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
When I've worked the jin to my satisfaction, I burn it. This cleans up the small fibers on the surface of the jin, shrinks the tissues and creates uneven coloration on the surface of the shari. I use this small hand torch.
I like the small ones. You have a lot more control over what gets heated. Be very careful when working around the live vein and around foliage. I always try and keep my free hand between the torch and the foliage so that I can feel the heat before the foliage does. That way I know when to back off.
The movement of the flame should be parallel to the grain of the wood. I like the blacken the deep cavities more than the wood surface, so I put the flame in there and keep it closer, longer than I do on the surface wood.
I like the small ones. You have a lot more control over what gets heated. Be very careful when working around the live vein and around foliage. I always try and keep my free hand between the torch and the foliage so that I can feel the heat before the foliage does. That way I know when to back off.
The movement of the flame should be parallel to the grain of the wood. I like the blacken the deep cavities more than the wood surface, so I put the flame in there and keep it closer, longer than I do on the surface wood.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
Next step is the brushing. I use a metal brush like this:
Bracing the trunk of the tree with one hand, brush the shari and jin with the other. This should significantly soften the blackened bits.
Bracing the trunk of the tree with one hand, brush the shari and jin with the other. This should significantly soften the blackened bits.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
All done for now except for the cleaning and lime sulfur work. I applied three coats of lime sulfur over the weekend, but I don't have a picture of it right now. I'll post that this evening. Here's the tree after the carving work is done.
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
And a before and after shot: 
What do you think?
What do you think?
thumblessprimate1
Masterpiece
It's improved a lot, is what I think. Nice tutorial!
markyscott
Imperial Masterpiece
After the lime sulfur and a few details of my favorite parts of the deadwood.
thumblessprimate1
Masterpiece
Pure gold.
thomas22
Chumono
Nice job Marky. Thanks for taking the time to show the process.
Mellow Mullet
Masterpiece
Awesome, thanks for showing the process and taking the time to share. I know how much time goes into taking photos, editing them, and posting. Do you use any type of sealer or preservative on the deadwood after the ls has whitened up?
