Caring for shari

Quince · Apr 17, 2017

This juniper was purchased at a club aution and has been with me for about 5 years. In that time, I've noticed the shari slowly changing. The cracks are getting deeper and the corner is separating. The wood feels solid, but I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing. I've heard that lime sulfur has little protective power. Should I be adding some kind of oil or resin?

Dav4 · Apr 17, 2017

Natural aging deadwood is the best, and that's what you have there. Some people would suggest a periodic application of lime sulfur to lightly preserve and bleach the wood. Honestly, the lime sulfur won't really preserve anything, and I prefer the muted greys of natural deadwood anyway. I will apply a 1/2 strength application of PC petrifier every few years, which is an actual wood hardener, which will help to protect the wood from decay.

BonsaiMobius · Apr 17, 2017

Quince said:
View attachment 141454 View attachment 141455
This juniper was purchased at a club aution and has been with me for about 5 years. In that time, I've noticed the shari slowly changing. The cracks are getting deeper and the corner is separating. The wood feels solid, but I want to make sure I'm doing the right thing. I've heard that lime sulfur has little protective power. Should I be adding some kind of oil or resin?

Ryan Neil said he uses Smith's Penetrating Epoxy to protect the deadwood on his trees.

a1dusty · Jun 30, 2022

Dav4 said:
Natural aging deadwood is the best, and that's what you have there. Some people would suggest a periodic application of lime sulfur to lightly preserve and bleach the wood. Honestly, the lime sulfur won't really preserve anything, and I prefer the muted greys of natural deadwood anyway. I will apply a 1/2 strength application of PC petrifier every few years, which is an actual wood hardener, which will help to protect the wood from decay.

I have this dilemma with my azalea which I took a dead vein out of the tree last year , I put lime sulphur on last year , when I had a scrape back this year it was very green behind , I am thinking to put hardener on this year , will post pics of azalea and any help would be gladly received

Dav4 · Jun 30, 2022

a1dusty said:
I have this dilemma with my azalea which I took a dead vein out of the tree last year , I put lime sulphur on last year , when I had a scrape back this year it was very green behind , I am thinking to put hardener on this year , will post pics of azalea and any help would be gladly received

I'd go with the wood hardener. I've never done that with an azalea, but I know that exposed wood on azaleas will quickly rot. Even with hardener applied regularly, I'm guessing you'll likely have continued deterioration. Good luck with it.

rockm · Jun 30, 2022

I would carefully consider using wood hardener on conifer wood. It's really not necessary and runs the risk of looking odd--hardener can dry to a plastic-like sheen. Also it won't stop rot and may actually help speed it up, as it doesn't penetrate wood deeply enough, leaving a shell of sorts of hardened outer layers. The inner layer of wood behind the shell, remains vulnerable to rot--you will not get an airtight seal to protect it. That shell provides protection of sorts to moisture and rot underneath.

Penetrating epoxy used to preserve boats might be a better option if you want to go that route...

Conifer wood can last a very long time if it's kept on the dry side in full sun. Structurally, you might be able to use wood glue--or superglue-- to cement separating pieces back together--clamps on the glued portion while the glue dries can improve the bond.

a1dusty · Jun 30, 2022

Dav4 said:
I'd go with the wood hardener. I've never done that with an azalea, but I know that exposed wood on azaleas will quickly rot. Even with hardener applied regularly, I'm guessing you'll likely have continued deterioration. Good luck with it.

Cheers buddy , the gardener I have is also anti rot/decay , was more concerned as it full of chemical but then again 99% of preservatives are chemical based ish , I’ll take a pick of what I intend on using , Shari will be wire brushed an soaked before hand then fingers crossed

a1dusty · Jun 30, 2022

rockm said:
I would carefully consider using wood hardener on conifer wood. It's really not necessary and runs the risk of looking odd--hardener can dry to a plastic-like sheen. Also it won't stop rot and may actually help speed it up, as it doesn't penetrate wood deeply enough, leaving a shell of sorts of hardened outer layers. The inner layer of wood behind the shell, remains vulnerable to rot--you will not get an airtight seal to protect it. That shell provides protection of sorts to moisture and rot underneath.

Penetrating epoxy used to preserve boats might be a better option if you want to go that route...

Conifer wood can last a very long time if it's kept on the dry side in full sun. Structurally, you might be able to use wood glue--or superglue-- to cement separating pieces back together--clamps on the glued portion while the glue dries can improve the bond.

Hmmmm you definitely have me thinking , I don’t want to seel the wood completely , I just want to stop the rot still allowing the tree to breath , I took out the whole vein so no water wood be left standing , hmmmm definitely more thought and reading needed for this

sorry if I jumping in on your thread mate , what ever happens the whole tree from roots up need to breath , wood on backside of Shari will soak up water always so why should I try sealing up with hardener on Shari when the water naturally soaks in trunk any way hmmmm I askin and answering lol sorry all my bad

rockm · Jun 30, 2022

a1dusty said:
Hmmmm you definitely have me thinking , I don’t want to seel the wood completely , I just want to stop the rot still allowing the tree to breath , I took out the whole vein so no water wood be left standing , hmmmm definitely more thought and reading needed for this sorry if I jumping in on your thread mate , what ever happens the whole tree from roots up need to breath , wood on backside of Shari will soak up water always so why should I try sealing up with hardener on Shari when the water naturally soaks in trunk any way hmmmm I askin and answering lol sorry all my bad

It's something to consider. I used hardener once on a big collected rose trunk. THe trunk looked fine from the front with intact deadwood, etc. Until one day I pressed it with my thumb and the wood gave in and my thumb went through the surface into the center of the trunk. It was hollowed out from the rot inside.

If this were my azalea, I would just use lime sulfur on it every few months (including just before putting it into winter quarters).

a1dusty · Jun 30, 2022

Hmmmm that’s what I have used once on her as vein dug out last year , what I did not like was the green algae when scraped back this year so maybe some sort of clear breathable preservative to maybe use first then a couple of lime sulphur applications , unless it below -5c for any length of time all my trees stay outside , we have a very mild climate on Isle of Wight which is great for most of my trees except my pines who I think could do with a more prolonged dormancy period

a1dusty · Jun 30, 2022

rockm said:
It's something to consider. I used hardener once on a big collected rose trunk. THe trunk looked fine from the front with intact deadwood, etc. Until one day I pressed it with my thumb and the wood gave in and my thumb went through the surface into the center of the trunk. It was hollowed out from the rot inside.

If this were my azalea, I would just use lime sulfur on it every few months (including just before putting it into winter quarters).

Forgot to say , very handsome terrier in pick mate , absolutely love the breed

rockm · Jun 30, 2022

a1dusty said:
Hmmmm that’s what I have used once on her as vein dug out last year , what I did not like was the green algae when scraped back this year so maybe some sort of clear breathable preservative to maybe use first then a couple of lime sulphur applications , unless it below -5c for any length of time all my trees stay outside , we have a very mild climate on Isle of Wight which is great for most of my trees except my pines who I think could do with a more prolonged dormancy period

Lime sulfur will help keep the algae under control--as will sun exposure. A nylon bristled brush scrub every couple of weeks will also help.

Dog's name is Lucy. She's my fourth Bull Terrier and my first mini-bull terrier. I've been devoted to the breed for as long as I've had bonsai. Some of my dogs have even "styled" a few of my trees over the years, using their teeth and/or knocking them off of shelves...

a1dusty · Jun 30, 2022

rockm said:
Lime sulfur will help keep the algae under control--as will sun exposure. A nylon bristled brush scrub every couple of weeks will also help.

Dog's name is Lucy. She's my fourth Bull Terrier and my first mini-bull terrier. I've been devoted to the breed for as long as I've had bonsai. Some of my dogs have even "styled" a few of my trees over the years, using their teeth and/or knocking them off of shelves...

Yes got my brushes at hand , before she goes into tunnel to grow on I shall start again with lime sulphur as she going to be in perfect place for it to thrive .
Hmmmm rooks and crows have definitely shaped many trees , one was a lanky lions mane maple I was going to air layer to shorten her then crow landed on top and two yrs later she was perfect

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