Fungal infection on trident?

Lars Grimm

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Hi All,

I've noticed some spots on a few of my tridents. This is not on all of the cultivars but just some of them. I am assuming it is fungal even though I treated with antifungals over the winter and in early spring. Any other thoughts? Also, is further anti-fungal treatment effective now or should I consider defoliating the affected leaves? These pictures are of two different cultivars and show the more egregious examples.

IMG_2362.JPG IMG_2361.JPG

Lars
 

cbroad

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Probably is Anthracnose, very common on maples and usually isn't a big issue.
 

Smoke

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Probably is Anthracnose, very common on maples and usually isn't a big issue.
probably, but people get a false sense of security because while it won't kill the plant outright it weakens it severely. Buds stop production and the tree sulks for the entire year. Mostly they snap back by mid season the next year, but thats after you learn your lesson with fungus. Two bad seasons of anthracnose back to back will ruin a good maple.
 

cbroad

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@Smoke
Good point, I mostly have experience with it on large landscape trees and it never seems to be a big problem but I didn't think about it on (possibly already stressed) bonsai trees. With our humidity here in VA, you kind of expect to get it and in NC it's probably even worse...
 

Smoke

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I am surprised that only some cultivars seem to be susceptible. Is that typical?
I have never seen it on Palmatum maple, only tridents. I am sure palmatums suffer from fungus, just never seen it.
 

Lars Grimm

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This all blew up after we had 3 days straight of rain, so it was prime fungal time. I just defoliated affected areas and treated. Hopefully it takes care of it.
 

AlainK

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I have never seen it on Palmatum maple, only tridents. I am sure palmatums suffer from fungus, just never seen it.

It's exactly the contrary for me. I've had those black spots on various J. m. cultivars, but never on tridents.

There are so many fungal diseases, they're not always easy to identify, but leaf spots are usually benign. Sparaying Bordeaux mix or diluted lime sulphur after leaf fall and just before budbreak usually help keeping most fungal pbs at bay.

Climate is a factor (a cool wet spring is smthg that most plants don't like), and the origin of the stock too: the genetics of two identical trees can be different in terms of how they can fight diseases. See the research done in Britain to select Ash individuals that are resistant to
Chalara dieback of ash (Hymenoscyphus fraxineus)
 

Lars Grimm

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probably, but people get a false sense of security because while it won't kill the plant outright it weakens it severely. Buds stop production and the tree sulks for the entire year. Mostly they snap back by mid season the next year, but thats after you learn your lesson with fungus. Two bad seasons of anthracnose back to back will ruin a good maple.

This is exactly what has been happening. I removed all the infected leaves and treated. In retrospect I wasn't vigilant enough about removing leaves from nearby ground growing trees which I think caused the reinfection. The tree has basically been sulking and not putting out much new growth.

I think I need to be much more aggressive about overwinter and prophylactic treatment next year.
 

miker

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My trident has anthracnose, likely due to the very wet summer, and due to the fact that I often water in the evening and always wet the leaves (to apply foliar fertilizer).

This is my favorite tree and as such, I am taking it very seriously and have started treating it with propiconizole to retard the infection somewhat, just to make myself feel a bit better, since it is too late to defoliate, then treat the tree (which is what would actually be effective at getting rid of the anthracnose).

I plan on treating the tree with preventative fungicide every couple of weeks, starting this coming spring.

Good luck with your tree Lars Grimm.
 

sorce

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apply foliar fertilizer).

That Foliar feed Myth busting thread has me fully convinced this is a waste of time.

Stating while it is a highly efficient method of uptake, the uptake is so small, it isn't worth the effort.

Like if you dose it with one million, one will get thru very efficiently, but 999,999 will not.

So the fungus you are creating an environment for, is always going to be way more damaging than any benefits of foliar feeding.

So it it actually not just a waste of time.

But a detriment.

Go Will Heath!
Weedsai! Chronsai!

Sorce
 

miker

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Yeah, after 3 back to back fungicide treatments, my maple will remain in full sun and only get watered before 3pm. Also, we appear to have shifted into a much drier pattern for the past 10 days or so and it looks to continue. Also, warm and humid, yuck.

I want to see some nice reds and oranges, not half brown, diseased leaves on my trident this fall.
 

BeebsBonsai

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It is a bad year for this fungus in my area. Every single maple in the subdivisions near my house is suffering from this black spot fungus. I have begun proactively treating my trident to prevent it from getting this fungus.

When you see that the weather is headed towards prolonged periods of rain, I would recommend proactively treating from now on. Especially if this tree is nearby susceptible landscape trees. During humid months, I treat once every two weeks just to be sure. Does anyone know of a source for daconil that doesn't have that weather-stick product in it? I find that the daconil I use leaves ugly spots on the leaves.
 
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