All aboard the Mugo train!

defra

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I dug them up in februari this year with verry little roots bare roots since the soil they grew in was mainly sand

The process of potting is on page 73 of the train

I will be patient with them and see what will happen

Ps it are two , one is showing growth with the candles and one is not
 
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Vance Wood

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I dug them up in februari this year with verry little roots bare roots since the soil they grew in was mainly sand

The process of potting is on page 73 of the train

I will be patient with them and see what will happen

Ps it are two , one is showing growth with the candles and one is not

You have to understand a bunch of things; I have been dealing with questions and the postings of a lot of people on a lot of questions about Mugos, I do not have the time to follow a thread like this one back and search for a previous post. I'm sorry about that,-- but I am not able, my memory is not that sharp any longer and I don't have total recall of every post and every person who posted. So here is what I see considering your additional information. You dug these trees up in February and they were essentially bare rooted? Considering this, I would think they are doing quire well. You need to give harvested trees at least a whole year, two would be better,--- to recover and get accustomed to container living.

It seems every time I am informed of a problem I usually find the source of the problem if I dig deep enough. There are a number of things that can have significant consequences, things that may seem inconsequential, may have life and death results. So if I start asking questions it is for a reason.

So for all of you that are seeking information because your tree seems to be in difficulty there are a lot of things that can cause a Mugo to go south. But; a lack of information will automatically trigger an abundance of questionsfrom me. Another thing is that you guys have to understand and consider----if you are asking for advise it is best asked prior to the event not as an approval of your actions after ward.
 
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herzausstahl

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You have to understand a bunch of things; I have been dealing with questions and the postings of a lot of people on a lot of questions about Mugos, I do not have the time to follow a thread like this one back and search for a previous post. I'm sorry about that,-- but I am not able, my memory is not that sharp any longer and I don't have total recall of every post and every person who posted. So here is what I see considering your additional information. You dug these trees up in February and they were essentially bare rooted? Considering this, I would think they are doing quire well. You need to give harvested trees at least a whole year, two would be better,--- to recover and get accustomed to container living.

It seems every time I am informed of a problem I usually find the source of the problem if I dig deep enough. There are a number of things that can have significant consequences, things that may seem inconsequential, may have life and death results. So if I start asking questions it is for a reason.

So for all of you that are seeking information because your tree seems to be in difficulty there are a lot of things that can cause a Mugo to go south. But; a lack of information will automatically trigger an abundance of questionsfrom me. Another thing is that you guys have to understand and consider----if you are asking for advise it is best asked prior to the event not as an approval of your actions after ward.
All great points @Vance Wood ! I think in all fairness to you the rest of us should be posting any pictures or listing any information we feel you need in each post we add here since this one is carrying multiple progressions in it. That way each situation is easy for you to fairly assess what's going on & also any new members following this thread don't have to reread the entire thing to be able to learn something & keep up with posts. Most of mine will pop up here after I've repotted them from my grow beds or the ground. Just waiting for the proper time. Only one tree I'll have a question on but that's a Scots pine I plan on trunk chopping but I'll post that up separately again when I seek your advice on it. And as always thanks again for helping all of us with our trees!
 

Vance Wood

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All great points @Vance Wood ! I think in all fairness to you the rest of us should be posting any pictures or listing any information we feel you need in each post we add here since this one is carrying multiple progressions in it. That way each situation is easy for you to fairly assess what's going on & also any new members following this thread don't have to reread the entire thing to be able to learn something & keep up with posts. Most of mine will pop up here after I've repotted them from my grow beds or the ground. Just waiting for the proper time. Only one tree I'll have a question on but that's a Scots pine I plan on trunk chopping but I'll post that up separately again when I seek your advice on it. And as always thanks again for helping all of us with our trees!
I look forward to work on the Scots Pine as well. How about a picture indicating where you plan on chopping the trunk, --- just being curious and nosy.
 

defra

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You have to understand a bunch of things; I have been dealing with questions and the postings of a lot of people on a lot of questions about Mugos, I do not have the time to follow a thread like this one back and search for a previous post. I'm sorry about that,-- but I am not able, my memory is not that sharp any longer and I don't have total recall of every post and every person who posted. So here is what I see considering your additional information. You dug these trees up in February and they were essentially bare rooted? Considering this, I would think they are doing quire well. You need to give harvested trees at least a whole year, two would be better,--- to recover and get accustomed to container living.

It seems every time I am informed of a problem I usually find the source of the problem if I dig deep enough. There are a number of things that can have significant consequences, things that may seem inconsequential, may have life and death results. So if I start asking questions it is for a reason.

So for all of you that are seeking information because your tree seems to be in difficulty there are a lot of things that can cause a Mugo to go south. But; a lack of information will automatically trigger an abundance of questionsfrom me. Another thing is that you guys have to understand and consider----if you are asking for advise it is best asked prior to the event not as an approval of your actions after ward.

I understand completely vance
Next time i have a question i will add photos and the nessecary information for you to judge on!

They where barerooted because the soil fell of when they came out of the ground so it couldnt be helped
But ill just leave them be for the next two years and then well see!
 

Vance Wood

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I understand completely vance
Next time i have a question i will add photos and the nessecary information for you to judge on!

They where barerooted because the soil fell of when they came out of the ground so it couldnt be helped
But ill just leave them be for the next two years and then well see!
That does not necessarily mean disaster but it does mean you are going to have a wait till the tree or trees become accustomed to their new environment. Bare rooting means you are starting with little or no Microhiza in the soil and you have to wait for the tree to form its own. Do you know the reason a child has colic for the first month or so after birth is because they lack the natural bacteria to sustain efficient digestion, The child will have this problem until this bacteria forms by naturally.
 

tree4me

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Bare rooting means you are starting with little or no Microhiza in the soil and you have to wait for the tree to form its own.
@Vance Wood In anticipation of the soon initial styling and placing in a pond basket my two mugos. reading this reply I was wondering. When you feel a tree is ready to go into an appropriate sized bonsai pot has all the old soil been replaced with bonsai soil, do you bare root entirely when the tree is vigorous and add mycorrhizae, or do you half bare root so to allow the mycorrhizae in the old soil to infect the bonsai soil? Thank you for sharing your experiences.
 

Vance Wood

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I never bare foot I have never found it necessary to do this from nursery soil. If the tree was in field dirt that might be a different story. I don't add mycorrhizae because it is impossible to find the right strain for a Mugo. It's a waste of money and the trees produce it themselves. I don't half bare root either, in the most of fifty years I have been doing this I have not found this procedure necessary except to silence the voices of the critics, and I really don't care what those people say any more.
 

Paulpash

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I never bare foot I have never found it necessary to do this from nursery soil. If the tree was in field dirt that might be a different story. I don't add mycorrhizae because it is impossible to find the right strain for a Mugo. It's a waste of money and the trees produce it themselves. I don't half bare root either, in the most of fifty years I have been doing this I have not found this procedure necessary except to silence the voices of the critics, and I really don't care what those people say any more.

What process do you employ now rather than 'half bare root'? If it's already been posted on the train I can go to the relevant compartment (see what I did there?) :)
 

Vance Wood

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First of all you have to determine if you are dealing with nursery soil or field soil. Most Mugos are nursery soil wihch is very much like what I use with a lot less organics and a lot more grit. I remove the tree from the container and I take a sharp saw or sharp knife and I cut one half of the entire soil mass off of the bottom of the soil mass. I then take a root rake or hook and comb out an additional one third of the soil out of the soil mass which straightens out the circling roots, I then remove about 25% of those exposed roots. That's pretty much what I do unless I have a lot of circling roots from previous repots in the nursery. Then I have to cut into those roots once the tree has a couple of years to recover from the initial procedure. This wont be approached the first round of repotting. I am beginning to think that it is this kind of very aggressive root work up front, which is so unnecessary, is the cause of many of the Mugo failures.
 

LanceMac10

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My fun lil' White bud suffered from my "care" and left the building......little bit bummed, but it happens.:(;)

This one may/might have had some issues; some banding of needles/loss of some fine branching and weaker buds. New growth seems unaffected. Copper and Dr. Earth fungicide early spring, we'll see if it holds.;):D:D:D:D:D

Happy Memorial Day weekend to guy's like @Vance Wood ,thanks for your/my dad sacrifice...and all veterans amongst us.
As you can see, I'm abusing some 'Poon's this weekend...no @WeeMac or MomHook!!!!!


Look out!!!!:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
oopps......tree pic...:confused:
DSC02025.JPG

DSC02026.JPG
:eek::eek::eek::eek::cool:
 

tree4me

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Would it be recommended that I add some organic to my inorganic mix, maybe beef it up with 25% pine bark or such? I believe you have mentioned they like a little more moisture than other pines.
 

Vance Wood

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Would it be recommended that I add some organic to my inorganic mix, maybe beef it up with 25% pine bark or such? I believe you have mentioned they like a little more moisture than other pines.
They do and I believe that the Pine bark Mulch seems to encourage it's own mycoriza.
 

Paulpash

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First of all you have to determine if you are dealing with nursery soil or field soil. Most Mugos are nursery soil wihch is very much like what I use with a lot less organics and a lot more grit. I remove the tree from the container and I take a sharp saw or sharp knife and I cut one half of the entire soil mass off of the bottom of the soil mass. I then take a root rake or hook and comb out an additional one third of the soil out of the soil mass which straightens out the circling roots, I then remove about 25% of those exposed roots. That's pretty much what I do unless I have a lot of circling roots from previous repots in the nursery. Then I have to cut into those roots once the tree has a couple of years to recover from the initial procedure. This wont be approached the first round of repotting. I am beginning to think that it is this kind of very aggressive root work up front, which is so unnecessary, is the cause of many of the Mugo failures.

So are you recommending NOT to do this approach? Be more conservative and take more time to get it compost free?
 

sorce

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. I am beginning to think that it is this kind of very aggressive root work up front, which is so unnecessary, is the cause of many of the Mugo failures.
So are you recommending NOT to do this approach? Be more conservative and take more time to get it compost free?

Marie...I believe VW converted back to talking about that video in This last bit.
Which, BTW, you can highlight to quote only, rather than underline....
Especially for VW!
I know he is the supreme net bonsai wanker....but sometimes he misses those things!



I'll be drinking one for you this weekend Lord Mugo!


Sorce
 

Paulpash

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@sorce - I'm really confused now what does "I believe VW converted back to talking about that video in This last bit" mean? What video and what last bit?? "Scratches head"
 

sorce

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@sorce - I'm really confused now what does "I believe VW converted back to talking about that video in This last bit" mean? What video and what last bit?? "Scratches head"

Oh my!

The video must be in another thread.

This is not the first time a Mugo thread and this one have been confused!

I'll tag ya.

Sorce
 

tree4me

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So are you recommending NOT to do this approach? Be more conservative and take more time to get it compost free?

Most Mugos are nursery soil wihch is very much like what I use with a lot less organics and a lot more grit.

@Marie1uk I believe Vance is saying that since his soil is similar to nursery soil, expect,his has more inorganics, the transition from colander/pond basket to bonsai pot it is not necessary to remove all of the old soil, ie, half bare root. Since i have 100% inorganic, similar to Boon's mix, I'll be adding 25-35% pine bark since mugo like higher moisture than most other pines. I don't mean to speak for Vance but this is what my question was pertaining to and I assume yours as well. Check out his " Mugo fat trunk reduction" video if you haven't already. Once I have mine in the pond baskets I may experiment with smaller mugos and half bare root using my adjusted mix.
 
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