Repotting tools...

Redwood Ryan

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Hey guys and gals,



I'm just curious about the tools you all use to repot your trees. Do you feel a root hook is necessary? I don't currently own one, and I'd pick one up from Kaneshin if necessary. That being said, would a root hook really only be beneficial when the roots are heavily rootbound? Could you get away with simply using your fingers to break up the rootball?

I'd like to do some repotting this weekend, but again I don't have a root hook so I don't know if I can successfully repot without one. In terms of scissors to prune the roots, I'm gonna guess you can use whatever scissors float your goat, yes?

Thanks guys!
 

Cadillactaste

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You've not repotted trees in the past? I would think if careful...you could use a chopstick? Certainly something more than ones fingers. Can't imagine repotting without being able to get into the roots and clean it out a bit.
 

Redwood Ryan

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It seems foolish, but I was always one to slip-pot trees. I never truly followed the rule where you need to bare root the tree and spread the roots. I just kinda took them out and would cut the rootball back and plop it into another pot.

I just want to make sure I'm doing what should be done to ensure proper tree health this go-around.

Chopsticks make perfect sense, now I've just gotta find some....
 

justBonsai

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It seems foolish, but I was always one to slip-pot trees. I never truly followed the rule where you need to bare root the tree and spread the roots. I just kinda took them out and would cut the rootball back and plop it into another pot.

I just want to make sure I'm doing what should be done to ensure proper tree health this go-around.

Chopsticks make perfect sense, now I've just gotta find some....
I'd say for some trees it doesn't really matter. But by combing out and trimming roots you improve the nebari. You wants roots that branch off from existing lateral roots. By repetitive growing seasons of lateral roots originating from the visible nebari, those roots will grow thicker while other growth is cut back. If done properly for decades you get those funky pancake nebaris on maples.
 

petegreg

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Well, if I repot trees established in a pot a chopstick or a pair of tweezers is usually enough. A bonsai rake is good too, can be replaced by bent fork... Kaneshin root hook is a pretty heavy duty tool, good for bigger trees, rootbound trees from nurseries and so. BTW it's a fantastic tool for collecting from the wild. You wouldn't say it's so heavy you can cut a circle around and under the tree with it...
 

Redwood Ryan

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I figure I might as well pickup a root hook. It'll be necessary soon enough.
 
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my nellie

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I have one such tool. A root hook (only one hook). Not Kaneshin brand but it is good quality and powerful.
Like Peter said above it is useful only for bigger trees in nursery pots, usually rootbound.
Chopsticks are of no use in such cases.
 

Adair M

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A sickle to run around the edge of the pot loosens the root ball from the pot. Bent tip tweezers help rake the top of the soil from the trunk to the outer edge of the rootball. They're also good for Bare rooting. The 3 pronged root rake help get the matted roots off the bottom of the rootball. You want the bottom to be flat, and smooth. I have a pair of Kandeshin bent scissors that are perfect for that job. They're bent at the handle so the blades can run across the surface of the bottom of the rootball, without my fingers rubbing against the bottom. Makes getting that flat surface easy!

You can use chopsticks or a sharpened stick or a root hook for loosening soil in compacted rootballs. I use the little broom to smooth out the soil and a tamper to pack it down.
 

Adair M

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Do you use that on all repots? Or only on pots that the wall curves back in?
All.

You really only have to do 3 sides. One long side and two shorts. Then push up on a strong branch, and the tree should tip right out. (I try not to touch the trunk... especially if it has rough bark.)

Obviously, cut the wires holding the tree in the pot before you begin anything else! Lol!!!
 

Vance Wood

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Why don't you explain to us what you think the concept of repotting is all about? Too often I hear of people repotting trees when they actually are bare rooting trees to get to that point. You cannot bare root everything without killing something that will not tolerate that amount of work.
 

GrimLore

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I'd like to do some repotting this weekend

If you are talking about your larger tropicals -

We don't do any work like that until they are in full blown growing mode.
We only repot(never bare rooted) in mid Summer, never needed a hook just a three prong rake does fine to loosen and spread root. A chopstick is most useful for packing in new substrate.
We rarely repot, most stay in the pots 5 years or more. When we do we reduce the root mass and the foliage. If 30 percent comes of the roots 30 percent comes off the top.
Again, in Mid Summer here and they stay in their normal spots outside until brought in. Here they do best in dappled sun and fry in full sun.

I am mentioning it because you have/had some darn old and nice ones and they really don't require a lot of fuss once established.

Grimmy
 

music~maker

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Hey guys and gals,



I'm just curious about the tools you all use to repot your trees. Do you feel a root hook is necessary? I don't currently own one, and I'd pick one up from Kaneshin if necessary. That being said, would a root hook really only be beneficial when the roots are heavily rootbound? Could you get away with simply using your fingers to break up the rootball?

I'd like to do some repotting this weekend, but again I don't have a root hook so I don't know if I can successfully repot without one. In terms of scissors to prune the roots, I'm gonna guess you can use whatever scissors float your goat, yes?

Thanks guys!
My primary root work tools are a single-hooked root hook, a standard folding pruning saw, a wooden chopstick and I use my regular bonsai tools for more precise cutting.

I do a lot of work with nursery stock, and I'll often use the saw to cut off the bottom of the root ball, and the root hook to remove loose soil from around the perimeter of what's left. The chop stick is for getting into places with more precision, but also for working new soil into the pot and eliminating air pockets. The cheap disposable ones work, but you can usually get a full set of larger wooden ones in Chinatown or at a Chinese grocery store for a couple bucks that work better. One pack will probably last you your entire bonsai career unless you lose them.

There are times when I've wanted the multi-prong root hook and not had it, particularly when I wanted to do gently rake out the top of the soil. I keep meaning to get one, but only seem to think about it when I need it and don't have it. =)

If you want to really reduce the size of a root ball to get it in a smaller pot, it would be pretty challenging without some kind of root hook. It's far less damaging to the plant to use the root hook to gently sort out the roots before pruning than to just blindly hack away until you get it to the size you want.

When I get completely raw stock, my plan is often something like this:
  • First full Year owning the tree - light re-pot in spring, mostly a slip pot, but I'll reduce and clean up the root ball somewhat before putting it in its new home (often the same pot, or maybe even a slightly larger one).
  • For the next few years, I may let it just grow or do the same level of re-pot, depending on my mood and the tree. This gets the tree used to growing healthily at this scale. It's not uncommon for me to skip a year between these re-pots, but I usually do at least every other year. Some things I'll pull up every year just to see how they're doing, and to do some light re-balancing. Because I'm only doing light root work during this cycle, I can take the opportunity to also do light pruning throughout the season and get the tree growing in balance.
  • After 3-5 years of this, I usually have something much better than what I started with. At that point, I move to some sort of large, shallow training pot. You could arguably do this sooner if you really wanted to, especially if you already have the trunk you want - this is just how I happen to work my trees. The point of the initial time in the nursery pot is to get the tree VERY healthy and strong so it can handle the substantial reduction required to move to a flat.
  • After growing in the training pot for a while you can start thinking about moving down a pot size, and eventually into bonsai pots. In between re-pots, you want it to grow enough to really fill up the pot with roots. You may even want to do at least one light re-pot back into the same container. This process will help develop your nebari if you let it grow long enough in the more constrained pot. Just don't go so long that you end up with a root nightmare to deal with. In the years when you're not re-potting, you can trim away obviously unwanted surface roots and pull them out.
Again, this is just how I do it. Lots of different strategies out there. My way is definitely not fast. =) But it keeps the tree growing vigorously while I'm working with things on top.
 

Redwood Ryan

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If you are talking about your larger tropicals -

We don't do any work like that until they are in full blown growing mode.
We only repot(never bare rooted) in mid Summer, never needed a hook just a three prong rake does fine to loosen and spread root. A chopstick is most useful for packing in new substrate.
We rarely repot, most stay in the pots 5 years or more. When we do we reduce the root mass and the foliage. If 30 percent comes of the roots 30 percent comes off the top.
Again, in Mid Summer here and they stay in their normal spots outside until brought in. Here they do best in dappled sun and fry in full sun.

I am mentioning it because you have/had some darn old and nice ones and they really don't require a lot of fuss once established.

Grimmy


I typically will ignore the time of year and repot when the trees are actively growing, usually that's about now. When they're growing they're pushing roots and I feel comfortable working them.

I did end up picking up a root hook from American Bonsai to allow me to at least somewhat free up the roots. I may not totally bare root trees that have already had root work done. Stock is another story.
 

Redwood Ryan

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I'm gonna guess wiping tools down with rubbing alcohol is the way to go after using all tools, correct? Not necessarily just your root tools, but concave cutters, etc.
 

Adair M

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Why don't you explain to us what you think the concept of repotting is all about? Too often I hear of people repotting trees when they actually are bare rooting trees to get to that point. You cannot bare root everything without killing something that will not tolerate that amount of work.
There are different kinds of "repots", as you know.

Most deciduous you CAN bare root every year if you want but you don't have to.

Most conifer don't like getting completely barerooted. Although they might survive. Or not.

There's the "half bare root" procedure used to help transition nursery soil into bonsai soil and revitalize old bonsai.

And then there's a normal repot which is usually a trim to get the circling roots, and a trim around the sides.
 

GrimLore

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I'm gonna guess wiping tools down with rubbing alcohol is the way to go after using all tools, correct? Not necessarily just your root tools, but concave cutters, etc.

Spend the 25 cents more on 91% and get into the habit of using it on all tools - simple prevention saves a lot of headaches especially when working several plants or more ;)

We also clean the pots with a 1 to 4 solution of vinegar and if clay rub them down with mineral oil. Sounds like overkill BUT especially on plants that we keep potted for years without a repot it just makes sense to take a few more minutes.

Grimmy
 
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