All aboard the Mugo train!

sorce · May 28, 2017

tree4me said:
I may experiment with smaller mugos and half bare root using my adjusted mix.

I got 4 Pumillos, 3 to experiment with.

Might offer one to a rock.

I don't think We've seen it attempted in summer.

Ahh...blah....

I feel so good about the summer repotting...
I don't think it's worth half baring.

I'll give at least one the MF treatment.

Sorce

herzausstahl · May 28, 2017

Vance Wood said:
I look forward to work on the Scots Pine as well. How about a picture indicating where you plan on chopping the trunk, --- just being curious and nosy.

No problem @Vance Wood but you already did in another thread I have it in. Which I greatly appreciate. I was gonna wait till the correct time got closer, then repost a pic of it asking for your advice. I just rechecked the other post & if I understood correctly I want to wait to do the trunk chop until the middle of summer, correct?

herzausstahl · May 28, 2017

And again @Vance Wood & any other Veterans here, thank you for your service! Getting to watch my brothers career i understand how much you guys sacrifice. Also having been a history major in college I know especially how much the Vietnam Vets didn't receive the welcome home they should have even for enduring the same or worse (worse given how many were drafted & didn't choose that path) than our vets since the first Iraq war.

Paulpash · May 29, 2017

Th

tree4me said:
@Marie1uk I believe Vance is saying that since his soil is similar to nursery soil, expect,his has more inorganics, the transition from colander/pond basket to bonsai pot it is not necessary to remove all of the old soil, ie, half bare root. Since i have 100% inorganic, similar to Boon's mix, I'll be adding 25-35% pine bark since mugo like higher moisture than most other pines. I don't mean to speak for Vance but this is what my question was pertaining to and I assume yours as well. Check out his " Mugo fat trunk reduction" video if you haven't already. Once I have mine in the pond baskets I may experiment with smaller mugos and half bare root using my adjusted mix.

Thank you for clarifying this point

Vance Wood · Jun 5, 2017

Wow! take off for a week to help out family; I missed a lot. I don't bare root Mugos, I have never found or thought it necessary. Most of the field grown Mugos I have encountered have been in sand but one inparticular is in the process of having the old clay soil gradually removed with every repot. It is doing well and seems to love the bonsai soil.

Most nursery Mugos that are small in three or less gallon pots are grown in a compost type soil mix. The larger ones are often grown in a clay mix so that they hold together in a burlap ball. The large one I have was one of those. This is the one I am gradually replacing the entire soil mix as time goes on. I'm in no hurry and if the tree is not suffering why put it under undo stress?

So---- even though I don't follow every rule we are supposed to follow I continually get away with doing what I do, which is everything we are not supposed to do, and have the trees to prove it. If I miss a question or something please be patient with me and ask again.

M. Frary · Jun 5, 2017

sorce said:
the MF treatment

Careful.

herzausstahl · Jun 7, 2017

Vance Wood said:
Wow! take off for a week to help out family; I missed a lot. I don't bare root Mugos, I have never found or thought it necessary. Most of the field grown Mugos I have encountered have been in sand but one inparticular is in the process of having the old clay soil gradually removed with every repot. It is doing well and seems to love the bonsai soil.

Most nursery Mugos that are small in three or less gallon pots are grown in a compost type soil mix. The larger ones are often grown in a clay mix so that they hold together in a burlap ball. The large one I have was one of those. This is the one I am gradually replacing the entire soil mix as time goes on. I'm in no hurry and if the tree is not suffering why put it under undo stress?

So---- even though I don't follow every rule we are supposed to follow I continually get away with doing what I do, which is everything we are not supposed to do, and have the trees to prove it. If I miss a question or something please be patient with me and ask again.

Glad to hear Vance! Normally you respond fairly quickly I was beginning to get worried you ran into complications from the bronchitis or agent orange, but figured if it was bad @M. Frary would somehow find out & let us know. When is a good time to trunk chop a Scots pine? Similar climate to yours

Vance Wood · Jun 7, 2017

I have cut them off in the Spring, Summer and fall. When is the best time? I suppose you will find books and individuals that will give you a specific time and a multitude of reasons why.

Firstly I stub everything, I never cut anything flush any more because the tree bleeds like a stuck pig and leaves a really ugly scar and swelling where it was cut. As far as trunk chops are concerned it all depends on what you understanding of the terminology, and how you understand how the process is carried out. Where to cut and what to cut to. I assume that you must leave some active growth below the cut joint?

M. Frary · Jun 7, 2017

herzausstahl said:
@M. Frary would somehow find out & let us know

I would send my daughter over to Vances.
She lives 30 minutes from him.

Vance Wood · Jun 7, 2017

herzausstahl said:
Glad to hear Vance! Normally you respond fairly quickly I was beginning to get worried you ran into complications from the bronchitis or agent orange, but figured if it was bad @M. Frary would somehow find out & let us know. When is a good time to trunk chop a Scots pine? Similar climate to yours

Sometimes I have to do other things out of necessity and have to leave town. I don't like advertising to however many people read this forum that at least I am not going to be home. However my Son who is over 65 feet tall and strong as an ox has access to my fire arms and would be a formidable opponent if someone was tempted to visit in a clandestine manner.

Soldano666 · Jun 7, 2017

Vance Wood said:
I have cut them off in the Spring, Summer and fall.

I know this is the mugo train but since scots are treated the same and I'm not really looking for back budding. I have one that need some height reduction. I was going to wait til mid summer since I did some light branch removal last summer. What can expect with making that reduction now? Will my lower candles extend further ? Will I get the same back budding similar to cutting new shoots a month from now? Or just a sap flowing mess to clean up later? Or winter prune for the same reduction in size and less mess? Thanks for your wisdom in all of this for us less experienced fools

Soldano666 · Jun 7, 2017

This is the tree in question. Seems to have plenty of healthy new growth, but a lot has to go

Paradox · Jun 7, 2017

Since this IS the mugo train, I was thinking of starting a Scots thread with an appropriately quirky name when I get the chance.

Any objection to splitting out the species so if people are looking for scots, it's has its own thread?

Nybonsai12 · Jun 7, 2017

Paradox said:
Since this IS the mugo train, I was thinking of starting a Scots thread with an appropriately quirky name when I get the chance.

All ABOARD THE SCOTS SUBWAY?

M. Frary · Jun 7, 2017

Paradox said:
Since this IS the mugo train, I was thinking of starting a Scots thread with an appropriately quirky name when I get the chance.

Any objection to splitting out the species so if people are looking for scots, it's has its own thread?

Thought of that myself but will leave it up to you to start one for Scots pine.
I got some passengers for that one too.

Paradox · Jun 7, 2017

Nybonsai12 said:
All ABOARD THE SCOTS SUBWAY?

Lol I will probably do a name with a little more deviation from the train theme.

I'm still thinkin.

Vance Wood · Jun 7, 2017

Soldano666 said:
This is the tree in question. Seems to have plenty of healthy new growth, but a lot has to goView attachment 148501

How far down do you plan on removing it? For now even though I am pretty convinced you could do it, I would not reduce down any more than 60% the first time and make sure you leave a stub, three or four inches will give you a nice Jin if you like but it wont give you a crumby, ugly and lumpy scar.

Soldano666 · Jun 7, 2017

Vance Wood said:
How far down do you plan on removing it? For now even though I am pretty convinced you could do it, I would not reduce down any more than 60% the first time and make sure you leave a stub, three or four inches will give you a nice Jin if you like but it wont give you a crumby, ugly and lumpy scar.

I took about 30% all around removing branches from whorls last summer. Obviously needs another go in that department. But I was thinking of cutting back to one of these 2 as a new leader and removing everything above leaving a nice stub. Well under 60% prob another 30-40%.

Vance Wood · Jun 7, 2017

Sounds good, Scots can take some pretty brutal pruning as long as you leave stubs to remove later or jin. Personally I do not think you have a problem with this tree. It appears very vigorous and healthy, and the idea that you have to be careful about pruning these trees is not quite correct in my experience.

sorce · Jun 7, 2017

Soldano666 said:
This is the tree in question. Seems to have plenty of healthy new growth, but a lot has to goView attachment 148501

Depot?

Red pot Master!

@Paradox thanks for the excuse!

New pine!

Sorce

All aboard the Mugo train!

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Chumono

Chumono

Masterpiece

Lord Mugo

Bonsai Godzilla

Chumono

Lord Mugo

Bonsai Godzilla

Lord Mugo

Omono

Omono

Imperial Masterpiece

Masterpiece

Bonsai Godzilla

Imperial Masterpiece

Lord Mugo

Omono

Attachments

Lord Mugo

Nonsense Rascal

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