Duplicate from the train:
I suppose I need to offer an apology for being a bit harsh in my response to some of you regarding the work you have done in initial root work on nursery Mugo Pines.
After going through what has been posted on the Nut in response to my work and verbal instructions on Mugos there are some problems that keep coming up that seem to be unresolved. Recently; one of you posted the after work results and was met with my reply as the root work seemed to be too much. I keep seeing this over and over so I am left to ask why this is happening.
It has always been in the past with other Pines people may be interested in making a bonsai of, root work has always been done aggressively in the method where a lot of old soil is removed. The quest to replace old soil, looked upon as the villain causing root rot, while making the transition from nursery soil to bonsai specific soil seems to be the dominant thought in people’s minds as to what should be done. Almost nothing is being addressed as to the stress placed on a root system and what this stress may cause to occur. Almost nothing is said or discussed how the root system actually does respond.
It is my fault in not recognizing this issue and addressing it as such. Considering my experience over the years has made what I do with a Mugo Pine the rule, for me, rather than the exception it is considered by the rest of the bonsai community. Apparently it is not enough to tell people that a Mugo Pine can be reduced in the middle of the summer, it is my fault for not informing in more detail how and why this is done.
It is also my fault in not revealing what to me is obvious, the information that seems to be escaping others that are dealing with this tree. Attempting to reconcile my methods with those they have learned elsewhere with other species of Pines seems to be creating a schism in application between two conflicting methods. In the case mentioned above I don’t think the tree is going to suffer ill effects but we will see. In this case the disturbance to the over-all root mass is extreme in the amount, if not in essence of the roots being destroyed by cutting off or damaged through tearing etc.. In other words a vast amount of root structure has been disturbed, more than I would have disturbed and more hair roots negatively impacted, as I would have been comfortable with.
I am not sure if nature is going to demand her pound of flesh from the event. We will deal with this as it takes place. We will rejoice when the tree responds with new growth and deal with the consequences we may have imposed on ourselves, if it does not.
So----after all of the above what are we to make of the information? We are dealing with a process that in many people’s minds is foolish, stupid, ignorant and destructive, a guaranteed tree killer. However I have been getting away with it for decades. Many claim that it is unique to where I live and the microclimate my location provides me. Over the last several years I have become aware that many of you guys are getting away with this and some of you live in New York, Illinois, Iowa and many places that are not Michigan. I have said it before and I will continue to say it: It’s not your location it’s your attention to appropriate detail, which brings up our discussion. An old axiom states that God is in the details.
Years ago I discovered while in the landscaping business when we had to transplant large trees in the middle of summer we had to reduce the top of the tree by 1/3. It was necessary to balance the diminished root system by inducing what I believe to be a healing response by cutting back the top. I know some very reputable bonsai people say this is a no-no but still, it works for me and allows me to do things during the repotting/growing season that no one else would do otherwise. However I have discovered one key point.
You have to provide a refuge for the root system. When you cut the roots by sawing off the bottom half of the soil mass, it means what it says. Pulling the lose stuff off the top of the soil mass, means what it says. This does not mean go looking for the nebari, and pull out and disturb a bunch of roots at the top of the soil ball. Those words mean exactly what they say, just pull the lose crud off the top of the soil ball and nothing else. It seems to me many think these instructions are too simple, there has to be more to it; there is not-----most of the time. The important thing is to make sure you have preserved a safe haven of undisturbed roots the tree can draw from. When the roots around the perimeter of the soil mass are cut, they are not cut to be laid out like a blanket but only interrupted from growing around in circles. When the process is done you should have a soil ball with a few gangly roots hanging around from the sides but intact for the most part.
