Pruning Redwood

Blake

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Hi, I am not new but don't have a lot of experiemce. I have a fairly large trunk bonsai that has some training prior to acquiring it. It is formal unpright twin trunk one large one small. Lower branches are a bit too low for the final look I want so eventually I will remove but the previous owner put a new lead trunk on top and it has some aesthetic issues I want to correct. The problem is I need a bit more detailed information on the do's and dont's of redwood pruning. I have pruned it several times already but had some slight die back due to a deeper pruning this spring. Thankfully everything has rebounded and tge branches have some good back growth now which will be helpful for the redwood look I want. Right now it has sweeping branches with some decent shape minus the low branching which I don't like. The top is a mess and the trunk wasn't angle cut so is flat topped with a very untrained and set branching which I think will be difficult to correct. The top foilage sticks out fron side view much further from lower.
1. Can I re-top and when (early spring). I won't kill tree by doing this? Can angle cut and pick new sprout and train properly. Currently new top leans too far foward and branches are older and I am unsure of how much I can prune to get back growth without killing the branches all together?
2. How do I gradually prune lower branches for back growth and how much and WHERE exactly because I read that redwoods are particular and precious owner cautioned me about pruning but didn't enough details. I want shorter branches for that tall inner forest look. Will post picture so you can see!!! Thanks!!!
 

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Giga

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Please update your location info so we can better give you advice. I do not own any red wood so I'll let someone else chime in, but that a nice tree to jump into bonsai!
 

rockm

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This looks like a Dawn Redwood, which isn't really the redwood most people think about when they hear the name.

Metasequoia glyptostroboides is the shortest of the redwood and only a cousin to the West Coast U.S. species. It is a native of China

Location will help determine care.
 

Blake

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I was in Seattle, WA and acquired tree there but just moved to Long Beach, CA. I have other bonsai but most I started. I have a couple that I acquired already in training including this one.

Thanks
 

coh

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Looks like a coast redwood to me (is it?), but we do need to know that and the location...
 

coh

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Looks like a coast redwood to me (is it?), but we do need to know that and the location...
OK, we got the location but we still need to know what type of redwood...
 

Vin

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OK, we got the location but we still need to know what type of redwood...
Sir, it's definitely not a Dawn Redwood. Dawns have opposing leaves and this one has alternating. My money is on Coast Redwood but I can't be sure (even though I have two).
 

hemmy

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Can I re-top and when (early spring)

Disclaimer: I have no practical experience on this subject!

I have repotted and removed lower branches from mine, but not reduced or pinched my branches yet (this coming winter and next spring).

But, Mirai Live has a Coast Redwood video behind the paywall. Maybe someone with experience can chime in. My understanding is hard pruning is done late Dec - early Jan in the Pacific NW and they can be pruned again in spring after the first flush hardens but before the next round of growth. This pruning will cause immediate backbudding and growth without losing the branch. Apparently pruning any other time and especially green shoots can risk causing die back and backbudding all the way back to the trunk. Once your branch design is set, the new growth length is managed with pinching back the tips of the new growth based on the length you desire.

If you are in the LBC, there should be a local club member with some practical experience. @bonsaibp, do you have any Coast Redwoods or is it too hot in the valley?
 

sorce

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Welcome to Crazy!

Sorce
 

Blake

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So in socal when would you prune. I am assuming Jan/Feb are coldest? Can I retop the tree and start that over at that time?

To be specific on general pruning which node is best to prune at? I see comments about not pruning hardened branches but how do you shorten them once back budding has occured successfully?

Root pruning can be done during cold months as well and I an assuming alternate to pruning and not at the same time to prevent stress.

I have been keeping foliage sprayed and can get a greenhouse for humidity as I have seen some people who are doing that for their coast redwoods. I just need specifics on when and where is best to prune and if I can accomplish what I am suggesting.
 

hemmy

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So in socal when would you prune. I am assuming Jan/Feb are coldest? Can I retop the tree and start that over at that time?

To be specific on general pruning which node is best to prune at? I see comments about not pruning hardened branches but how do you shorten them once back budding has occured successfully?

Root pruning can be done during cold months as well and I an assuming alternate to pruning and not at the same time to prevent stress.

I have been keeping foliage sprayed and can get a greenhouse for humidity as I have seen some people who are doing that for their coast redwoods. I just need specifics on when and where is best to prune and if I can accomplish what I am suggesting.

Dec-Jan are the coldest according to Weather Channel. LBC Weather.jpg
But I think what we have to observe in SoCal is when the tree is dormant (if it ever is) and when the buds have been set for awhile, which probably still Dec-Jan. Apparently the dieback happens when pruning occurs too soon relative to newly formed buds which causes the tree to abandon those buds and push back growth from the trunk. Hardened branches are shortened during the above optimal time with the expectation that they will backbud close to the prune (from a bud at a node of course) and then you can rebuild them.

This is a pretty vigorous species. On mine, I would not hesitate to repot, lightly root prune and prune back branches or even chop the top (as long as you had lower foliage) all at the same time.

On misting and a greenhouse: Your weather is pretty similar to Big Sur with an across the board 10-15degF shift hotter.
Big Sur weather.jpg
It will all depend on your microclimate in your yard. How much sun/shade and time of day, surrounding humidity from grass and trees, and reflected heat from concrete or structures. From your pic, you have trees, grass and shade so you should be able to find a happy spot without a greenhouse. The problem with a greenhouse is that with poor ventilation you could get 90-100degF temps which I doubt the tree would like. It looks like yours is under a deck, does it get any lower angle morning sun?

Mine gets full morning to early afternoon sun and is then in shade. I keep it well watered, but I don't mist it every day.

Again, I don't want to come off as an expert with my one redwood (but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express once). Hopefully someone with more experience will post.
 

Blake

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Ok thank you that is getting closer to what I am needing. I woukd stilk hesitate to do all at once ib regards to roots and topping. Scares me to lose it so baby steps.
 

bonsaibp

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I root prune in Febuary/early March. Branches in Jan/Feb or early May or so after growth hardens. Never cut a branch that hasnt hardened off
 

Blake

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Explain hardens off. There is the foilage which is often at the tip of a green shoot. But pinching this leaf growth is ok just leave branch pruning alone until it turns brown?

This tree has lots of both green shoots and existing hardened branches. I would like to reduce some of those hardened branches and keep the green ones in check.

You are saying to hard prune once a year at those times after the previous years growth has hardened.

I regularly have to clip and prune base shoots and trunk shoots on this tree but if I clip a green branch shoot then it will cause issues?

That is confusing any reasons why that is?
 

bonsaibp

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Explain hardens off. There is the foilage which is often at the tip of a green shoot. But pinching this leaf growth is ok just leave branch pruning alone until it turns brown?

This tree has lots of both green shoots and existing hardened branches. I would like to reduce some of those hardened branches and keep the green ones in check.

You are saying to hard prune once a year at those times after the previous years growth has hardened

I regularly have to clip and prune base shoots and trunk shoots on this tree but if I clip a green branch shoot then it will cause issues?

That is confusing any reasons why that is?
Don't cut even hardened branches now it's too hot. Last years branches can be cut back in Jan/ Feb. Current year branches after they harden. Prune the new branches after they've turned a tan color usually around May for me in Northridge or older brown branches ( Bark not foliage) just before a side shoot and thats where the new buds will come from. Branches that grow from the base or trunk that aren't needed can be cut anytime as long as you're taking the whole thing.
Don't trim green soft branches- it mostly kills the branch and causes new buds from the trunk.
 

bonsaibp

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If you don't mind a drive to the valley bring it to a class in Jan/Feb.
 
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