Little Toyo Nishiki

GrimLore

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I switched

I make a nursery mix of Coarse Silica Sand, Fine Black Compost, and Perlite for many of them. I modify it with Fine Canadian Peat for acid lovers. For Fruit, Elms, and the larger trees I skip the perlite and sand but I add a lot of Pine Bark Mulch. All plants get a drainage layer of PermaTil.

I also have been watching positioning of plants closely as well as rotating them 360 weekly for more even growth except cascade projects.

The downside is yearly inspection and loosening up of the soil mix to alleviate any compaction problems but I have time so I think it is worth it.

Edit: I forgot to add that I have been doing a Sulfur drench of the soil on a lot of the plants and it most certainly breaks the Cedar Rust Cycle over time on Fruit and appears to yield greener robust foliage on several plant types so far. I have been slowly trying it with a few a year and so far I haven't killed anything :rolleyes:

Grimmy
 
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GrimLore

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Got dry at some point while I was on vacation, and it dropped a lot of leaves.

Another odd difference - If the foliage and branches on mine get wet from a heavy rain the leaf goes brown and drops a lot. It was so noticeable last year that this year it goes on a table in the shed and I just leave the door open until heavy rains pass. I also always water it with the Haws just at the surface. Much like Succulents here :confused:
Last night according to the meter we had 3/4 of an inch of rain and it stayed out. Today all of the smallest leaf is yellow and dropping... :eek: No biggy as it is so full but it really shows here.

Grimmy
 

Cadillactaste

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Another odd difference - If the foliage and branches on mine get wet from a heavy rain the leaf goes brown and drops a lot. It was so noticeable last year that this year it goes on a table in the shed and I just leave the door open until heavy rains pass. I also always water it with the Haws just at the surface. Much like Succulents here :confused:
Last night according to the meter we had 3/4 of an inch of rain and it stayed out. Today all of the smallest leaf is yellow and dropping... :eek: No biggy as it is so full but it really shows here.

Grimmy
Peculiar ... Mine was sprinkler water fed...and had lost leaves upon my return from Honduras. Which I never put two and two together...curious if the case similar. It's now putting out new growth tips. But is in full sun now...hm-mm pondering location after reading this.
 

GrimLore

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My toyo nishiki looks like the one in Grim's "before" photo. I have NEVER been able to get that tight foliage he is showing in his "after" photo!

That really is some tight foliage.

I took over 50 percent of the leaf off over the last two weekends. I wanted to plan Fall cuts but it was impossible to see what I really had to work with. It turns out After the last Fall cutback to 5 branches it has responded with another 19! Looking at the way it is growing I "think" cut properly again this year I can got for a pretty damn close to contorted look next year, thoughts? This plant is wacko -

IMG_1466.JPG

Grimmy
 

thumblessprimate1

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I took over 50 percent of the leaf off over the last two weekends. I wanted to plan Fall cuts but it was impossible to see what I really had to work with. It turns out After the last Fall cutback to 5 branches it has responded with another 19! Looking at the way it is growing I "think" cut properly again this year I can got for a pretty damn close to contorted look next year, thoughts? This plant is wacko -

View attachment 161443

Grimmy
Have you had flowers on this quince yet? What size pot is that that it is in? It appears as though you can still wire and add twists into it; the branches look thin enough. I've intentionally snapped some branches without severing them to create sharp changes in the bends.
 

thumblessprimate1

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@GrimLore Also, you don't have any suckers coming up from the roots; have you been removing them or had you not had any come up?


Update on this quince: I added some wiring last month. I would like to graft more branches next spring. Will try to do more.
 

GrimLore

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Have you had flowers on this quince yet? What size pot is that that it is in?

Yes, in late April, normal some white, pink(salmon to me) & white, reds and mixes of those. Recently there was another late bloom at the base and it was pink and white.

That is a 1 1/2 gallon Nursery pot filled halfway with PermaTill. When I received it was root bound in a 2 quart. It came from Monrovia for the record. I will most likely put it in a large trainer this Spring 18 inch wide, 4 inch deep.

Also, you don't have any suckers coming up from the roots; have you been removing them or had you not had any come up?

When I received it I thought it was a clump but dug around and removed 6 large suckers leaving it a single plant. There is one sucker in there now, lowest branch over 12 inches long which before I defoliated looked to be a low branch, not certain when I will remove it to attempt a cutting but I think in Spring. There was a few more before it really filled in but they did not strike.

I am first in line for a cutting!!

No problem once I figure out how to do that successfully!

That makes me second in line, I guess.

Ditto! No problem once I figure out how to do that successfully!

Update on this quince: I added some wiring last month. I would like to graft more branches next spring. Will try to do more.

That is a nice one indeed, I am impressed as always with your grafting success!

Grimmy
 

thumblessprimate1

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@GrimLore I don't have much success yet. With more practice, then maybe. I think some humidity helps.

If you want try root cuttings next year. Slice lower portion of roots in pot and leave exposedan at top. Keep moist.
 

garywood

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Little ain't so little anymore. I cut some branches back. Two grafts, all from spring did not grow. Hopefully they'll grow this time. I need to apply some wire.
View attachment 249807
TP, the inherent problem with Toyo Nishiki and a small tree is the longer internodes of TN. Something to think about. Stopping the elongation like the J. maple technique is a good option.Then build tertiary with closer nodes. Good work.
 

thumblessprimate1

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TP, the inherent problem with Toyo Nishiki and a small tree is the longer internodes of TN. Something to think about. Stopping the elongation like the J. maple technique is a good option.Then build tertiary with closer nodes. Good work.
Thanks, Gary. Biggest challenge for me is to get tight growth and flowers at the same time. These don't seem to flower when make them weak and have tighter growth.
 
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