Maybe I am not remembering right, but didn't you say it's best to let them get cold for a couple nights. Like 30's? Will it be that cold there, in just a few weeks? I'm hoping to not have to bring anything in here for at least 6 weeks.
Odd Serrisa root work progression
- Thread starter GrimLore
- Start date
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
I let the Serissa get pissed and drop leaf after a few nights of 35F, then bring them in but to the patio door footing for a few days, and then to the plant room - they bounce back silly here that way. Twelve of the thirteen I started with died - I gave them way to much attention and the several cuttings I have now will get treated poorly(according to the net) and I expect good hardy Northern plants in the Spring.
To Clarify - that is for established plants, it is late in season to acclimate them for us so this year I would Strongly suggest moving them slowly in when nights are 45ish. Next year drop it ten degrees and all will be good.
I explained my results in a post to Mike here in this thread on Satsuki Azalea - note them, it works
Grimmy
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
In Post#20 I showed what I thought would be the plant in growing mode for the next several weeks. That was august 28th... On September 10th I expected a rather robust plant and found it to be looking as if it were dying, lot of leaf drop, no back budding...
I was like WTF? Well upon inspection I discovered it was water logged - the roots had got so thick below surface they clogged the drainage layer of slate and completely clogged the large screen.
Removed it and cut all of those roots away, minimum 50 percent -
Found a larger mesh -
Put in another slate drainage layer, repotted, and cut away a lot of the top setting the plant back an easy 6 weeks in development
Pays to pay better attention, ARGH! The only good to come of it so far is today there are a few back buds far lower as I was working very hard to get while losing more of the top. I guess we will see in a few weeks...
Grimmy
I was like WTF? Well upon inspection I discovered it was water logged - the roots had got so thick below surface they clogged the drainage layer of slate and completely clogged the large screen.
Removed it and cut all of those roots away, minimum 50 percent -
Found a larger mesh -
Put in another slate drainage layer, repotted, and cut away a lot of the top setting the plant back an easy 6 weeks in development
Pays to pay better attention, ARGH! The only good to come of it so far is today there are a few back buds far lower as I was working very hard to get while losing more of the top. I guess we will see in a few weeks...
Grimmy
. I hope it bounces back. It would be a real shame to lose that one.JVal
Seedling
Suggestions for mine? I've had it since mid May. If i remember right the tag on it said it was 2-3 years. Definitely had some growth since I got it. I live in SE Wis. Trying to get an idea of what it'll need for the coming winter months. Maybe suggestions on trimming, wireing, re-potting? Reason I've come here is it seems GrimLore has some experience with these. 1st and 2nd pic is day of purchase. 3rd and 4th from today. I took a few 6" clippings from it about a week ago and that's all I've done to it besides water.
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
It will be just fine I expect it to be full of foliage before it comes in for the Winter - Once established they are pretty damn hardy ")
Wow - is sure has done what they do! It must be happy!
First off trim off all of the long leggy branches with the large internodes(space between the leafs) I would go all the way back to the first set of leaf on each one. Leave about a 1/4 inch stub of branch above the leaf. It will dry out over time and rub off but you should see new growth and braches from around that point in a few days, or weeks depending on growing season. If not it will get away from you causing a bit of a control problem down the road. A few weeks later consider doing the same to the smaller branches, giving you some ramification. For now that is all I would do to it.
It can and appears to be living indoors but I don't know so that information would help me help you with Wintering. In addition how wide is the base of the trunk at soil level so I have a clue how big it actually is
Grimmy
What temperature range do you keep them at when you bring them indoors? I have some small Serissa starters that I'll be bringing indoors in the next month or so.
-Hoops
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Mine will come in when it is 35F-ish for a few nights a week. I bring them and place them by the patio door on the floor overnight, coolest spot in the house. I then put them in the plant room. The plant room is 73 constant, but they can handle lower easily all Winter. I use lower level T8 light, full spectrum and at higher temperatures I get a lot less leggy spindle growth.
Grimmy
JVal
Seedling
It can and appears to be living indoors but I don't know so that information would help me help you with Wintering. In addition how wide is the base of the trunk at soil level so I have a clue how big it actually is
It's been kept in a west facing sunroom. Windows on N, W, S sides of it. I know I'm going to need to bring it in the house soon. I'm just not sure when I should start doing that. The trunk at soil level is about 3/8 - 1/4 of an inch wide.
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
Being a new plant with you I would suggest bringing it in when the nights are going to average 45F the first year. Following years if still that healthy leave it out a few nights at 35F. Don't be surprised if it pouts a little, some dry leaf, etc... It is normal and if so water it slightly less for a couple weeks and forget the fertilizer. It will come back with a lot of new foliage and then resume normal care.
As John @Mellow Mullet said, and trust me he is PRO with Serissa that is most likely a year old. The larger one I am working in this post is 3 1/2 years old with a 1 1/2 inch trunk at the trunk line above the roots I exposed. Great start you have there, and as me and him discussed in your thread lighter work is in order this time of year for us more Northern Folk. He grows all year down there - Wonderful plants in every aspect but his weather allows it.
Grimmy
JVal
Seedling
Being a new plant with you I would suggest bringing it in when the nights are going to average 45F the first year. Following years if still that healthy leave it out a few nights at 35F. Don't be surprised if it pouts a little, some dry leaf, etc... It is normal and if so water it slightly less for a couple weeks and forget the fertilizer. It will come back with a lot of new foliage and then resume normal care.
As John @Mellow Mullet said, and trust me he is PRO with Serissa that is most likely a year old. The larger one I am working in this post is 3 1/2 years old with a 1 1/2 inch trunk at the trunk line above the roots I exposed. Great start you have there, and as me and him discussed in your thread lighter work is in order this time of year for us more Northern Folk. He grows all year down there - Wonderful plants in every aspect but his weather allows it.
Grimmy
Thanks for your help! One last question when can I start working on exposing the roots like yours? I don't want to shock it and do too much at once. But that looks awesome!
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
I started raising it and exposing them 2 1/2 years ago if you follow the progression so you can safely start the process next Spring. My advise to you on that is do not cut lower branching off on your, cut back but not off. Mine was a shrub when I got it and I did - now I am spending months trying to get lower growth back
When you are ready to start the process PM me here and I can call you or you can call me and I can explain how/why I did as I have so far - could save you all the experimenting I had to do
No manuals on that shit, lol Grimmy
JVal
Seedling
How many hours of light should they get?
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
I do 16 hours 8 on 4 off 8 on 4 off same as large Greenhouse growers for a few reasons. The main reason is it works. There are other reasons but we would be getting into controlled growing tactics. For example to get those great looking Poinsettia for December they live in total darkness for 4 - 6 weeks to force a bloom at the right time. I have grown a "few, lol" plants indoors over the years and although it varies with species and what you want to do there is always a method
For general growing though the method I use with lower T rating produces a lively plant but not one with leggy or unwanted growth.I spend to much time on indoor plants but hey - I have time and space
Grimmy
GrimLore
Bonsai Nut alumnus... we miss you
It did ok but I was unhappy because I still wanted it far shorter. A few minutes ago I did a "Cowboy Chop"!!! The root work I did is packed in with substrate to promote thickening. From the trunk line it is now 3 1/2 inches tall
From the soil line 5 1/2 inches maximum... I guess we will find out how tough they really are Serious no clue what it will do...
Grimmy
