What Pot to Choose for Kishu?

Which pot is the best fit


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    17
  • Poll closed .

Tidal Bonsai

Omono
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A rule of thumb to go by for depth of pot is the depth of the pot should be about the same as the base of the trunk.

So, too my eye, all those pots look too deep. Maybe it's because of the way you took the pictures. It gives a better perspective if you move far away, 20 feet or so, and zoom in. Then the pot is less in the foreground, and the tree in the background. And get the camera even with the lip of the pot, so that only the front of the pot shows.

So if I am looking for an oval pot it would be approximately 8 inches wide (the 2/3 rule) and 1.5 inches deep?
 

Adair M

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So if I am looking for an oval pot it would be approximately 8 inches wide (the 2/3 rule) and 1.5 inches deep?
The 2/3 rule being 2/3 the height of the tree?

That might work. As you know, "It depends".

1 1/2 inches might be a little too thin. Maybe 2 to 2 1/2 inches would be better. But that would be better than a 4 or 5 inch deep pot. You may not be able to go from the flower pot to one that thin in one go. You may have to use a slightly deeper pot for a year or two before you can reshape the root ball into a flatter shape. Try not to mound the root ball in a too shallow pot. You'll kill your surface roots.
 

Tidal Bonsai

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The 2/3 rule being 2/3 the height of the tree?

That might work. As you know, "It depends".

1 1/2 inches might be a little too thin. Maybe 2 to 2 1/2 inches would be better. But that would be better than a 4 or 5 inch deep pot. You may not be able to go from the flower pot to one that thin in one go. You may have to use a slightly deeper pot for a year or two before you can reshape the root ball into a flatter shape. Try not to mound the root ball in a too shallow pot. You'll kill your surface roots.

The unmarked nanban in this picture is 7.5 x 2.25 tall shown below the 6.5 x 3.5 tall Japanese grow pot. I think 7.5 inches looks a little large visually. I am probably on the hunt for something like a 6-6.5 x 2 inch oval/round.
 

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sorce

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nmarked nanba

I like that one....

But if I may...since you have yet to set out those "pads"...

The trunk base and exit angle, twist and shari, jins, everything seems directionally right, then the canopy falls down left.

I like where the left side is...
If you can bring the right side lower and continue this rightward movement of all elements I think you will end up with an easier tree to more comfortably display.

I think with these corkscrew joints that already have eyes following what is essentially a spring that could go around and around forever....
It is especially important to fully define directionality as to give the viewer a visual "rest" and assist them into the rest of the tree and display.

Sorce
 
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The foliage pads are too nice and well placed, I will be wiring, lightly thinning and moving the pads around, but I will NOT be chopping 75% of them off to turn this to a literati. Is it a rule that if it's in nanban it has to be a bunjin?

No, the 'rule' is that literati go in a round pot, and that round pots are only for literati. Personally I think there's other trees that can look really good in round pots, but most of those are really small.
Most, if not all nanbans are round, so...

Can I ask why you won't be chopping off much foliage?
 

Tidal Bonsai

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Can I ask why you won't be chopping off much foliage?

Let me rephrase and clarify previous statements. I will prune, and remove foliage to get light into the tree, balance growth, and to create neat pads in order and move this tree forward to be show ready. I said "lightly" and "I will NOT be chopping 75% of them off to turn this to a literati" because this tree is not going to end up like the picture below.
IMG_1357.JPG

Don't get me wrong, I love the literati style, but that's not what I see in this tree.
 

Dav4

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There's a big difference between being a literati and having literati characteristics. Personally, while the trunk movement is literati-like, it's a bit too heavy to be considered a true literati. I think it's a very nice tree and refining the canopy and getting it into a decent pot will take it to the next level.
 
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Let me rephrase and clarify previous statements. I will prune, and remove foliage to get light into the tree, balance growth, and to create neat pads in order and move this tree forward to be show ready. I said "lightly" and "I will NOT be chopping 75% of them off to turn this to a literati" because this tree is not going to end up like the picture below.
View attachment 161774

Don't get me wrong, I love the literati style, but that's not what I see in this tree.

Ah ok. It doesn't have to be sparse, it only needs to look sparse ;)
I'll be curious what you make out of this tree tho!
 

Tidal Bonsai

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This looks pretty interesting, the dimples in the feet are round like the bends in the tree, and the whole pot has a very round and smooth look. Anyone bought his stuff? Can it hold up in freezing NJ winters?

My only reservation is using brand new pottery with an old tree. If I buy it, I may have to leave it outside for the next few years.
 

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Dav4

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This looks pretty interesting, anyone bought his stuff? Can it hold up in freezing NJ winters?

It's the right size, but I am unsure how brand new pottery will look with an old tree?
Contact the seller and ask. I'm sure it's fully vitrified, but you might as well ask to be sure.
 

MichaelS

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What you want (IMO) is a fairly shallow drum pot or primitive pot. And not very wide either. Not much deeper than the trunk is thick and the tree should be thoroughly thinned so we can see some branches etc. That would make the tree look older and lager than it is.
 

Adair M

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This looks pretty interesting, the dimples in the feet are round like the bends in the tree, and the whole pot has a very round and smooth look. Anyone bought his stuff? Can it hold up in freezing NJ winters?

My only reservation is using brand new pottery with an old tree. If I buy it, I may have to leave it outside for the next few years.
Still stuck on round pots, I see.

You might consider an oval. That's why I posted the picture of the one I worked on at Boon's.
 

chicago1980

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Nice trunk, maybe some raffia and a bend or two. Compress the apex closer to the great trunk line. Or maybe a nice tilt to the right with the foliage in it's current direction or maybe in flow with the trunk line. The tilt could create a taper? No matter this tree could have a solid future.

Would a lotus pot be to much?
 

chicago1980

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Hmmm... Maybe not
 

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Leo in N E Illinois

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No, the 'rule' is that literati go in a round pot, and that round pots are only for literati. Personally I think there's other trees that can look really good in round pots, but most of those are really small.
Most, if not all nanbans are round, so...

Can I ask why you won't be chopping off much foliage?

You may be right that literati are "required" to be in round pots. But you are wrong, in that many trees of many different styles may be planted in round pots.

Besides, there is no government committee enforcing the "rules". There is no accreditation to become a bonsai judge. To be a judge, all that has to happen is the show chairperson needs to invite you. Which means "there are no rules".

Of course appearance is important, and a coherent artistic sensibility should be followed, but there's really no fixed rules.

I pot many of my trees in their middle stages of development in round pots, as this allows me to consider and display different fronts for the tree. And I do display them in round pots. Never has anyone, no judge, no show chairperson, no visiting guest artist has ever said round pots are only for literati.
 
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I've heard tons of people say round pots are in the rule for literati only. They had other styles in round pots also, and neither did they follow that rule strictly as there's plenty of trees in plenty styles that look well in round pots.
I think it it one of those very bendable rules. As always there's the 'depends'.

Actually there is a course for becoming a bonsai show judge. A couple of my bonsai friends over here followed it and they even got certificates. No idea if that's limited to the Netherlands and Belgium tho.

Don't get me wrong, I think half my collection is in a round pot and for some if not most that goes really well.
 

Stickroot

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I was going to start to prep this tree for some club shows in the future. What pot out of my collection do you think will be the best for semi-competitive shows (bragging rights, and jabs at other members, lol).

1. Kataoka Toshio Yamaaki kiln
View attachment 161647

2. Contemporary Chinese rectangle
View attachment 161648

3. Unmarked Nanban
View attachment 161649

4. Richard Robertson Glazed Nanban
View attachment 161650

5. Contemporary Chinese Round 1
View attachment 161651

6. Contemporary Chinese Round 2
View attachment 161652

7. Taiko Earth Black Round
View attachment 161653
This one for sure. image.jpeg
 
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