Winter view

AlainK

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Hallo, salut Walter,

You said:

I wire broadleaved trees from end of March to end of April and very litle during summer. Conifers I wire from middle of June to middle of September, larches at the end of March.

How long do you leave the wires?...

For instance: "larches at the end of March." All right, when to wire is before budbreak, I got that, but when do you remove the wires?

I mean on such trees that have very fragile needles, it's always a hassle to remove wire when the Larch is in full leaves without damaging the leaves or the buds.

So you've said too much or not enough ;)

And thanks for this precision:

Walter Pall said:
At least in my garden and climate it is not a problem.

I dared underline what is also essential parameters to take in account.
 

Walter Pall

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Hallo, salut Walter,

You said:



How long do you leave the wires?...

For instance: "larches at the end of March." All right, when to wire is before budbreak, I got that, but when do you remove the wires?

I mean on such trees that have very fragile needles, it's always a hassle to remove wire when the Larch is in full leaves without damaging the leaves or the buds.

So you've said too much or not enough ;)

And thanks for this precision:



I dared underline what is also essential parameters to take in account.

Alain,

I remove the wire whenever it absolutely has to go - whenever that is - no certain time of the year. I leave it on as long as possible. How long is not my decision, but the tree's.
Some wire stay on for six (!) years, some for twelve months. but at this moment, when I find that some wire has to go off I normally wait until March or April. Why? Because I gain another six months to finalize the desired shape of the branch or trunk. The wire will not bite in more over winter.
 

Walter Pall

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I am not sure that the bridge (approach graft) is really safe. The Arakawa variety is very bad in this context. No wonder there are so few good ones around.
 
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Vin

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I am not sure that the bridge (approach graft) is really safe. The Arakawa variety is very bad in this context. No wonder there are so few good ones around.
Ahhh, I understand. I cannot grow them in my climate so all I can do is enjoy the images of others. Beautiful bark, nebari and ramification on yours.
 

my nellie

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Let me just join the others and say "Thank you, Sir" for posting these excellent and inspiring images!
 
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jeanluc83

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I will NOT put on wire now on any tree. From end of October to end of March there is no wiring in my garden. Very often exactly the branches that were wired and bent will become weak or die altogether. To just put on wire and not bend now is OK. But I don't bother. I do now use guy wires though as you see quite often even on my 'finished' trees. I will avoid pulling too much at this time of the year though.

Why do you think this is the case? Is it due to small fissures that are created when the branches are bent?
 

Walter Pall

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Wiring is not the probem - be nding is. Whenever bending thousands of cells are damaged. The tree can only repair these when he is activly growing. In winter there is almost nothing he can do aoutt it. The chance of loosing many bent branches is very high in winter. The othre thing is that we overwinter our trees in my climate with temnperatures below freezing for weeks. Most of my trees are outside all winter.
 

M. Frary

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I thought so. I just like ths tree. I like most of your trees but the spooky/fantasy ones I like best.
I don't even know what it is. Beech?
 

Paulpash

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Walter if you are doing your winter cutbacks now can you post a before and after - I'm guessing you have to make thousands of what to cut every year so it is automatic for you now. I think it would make a great educational for those just learning the hedge cutting method you use - knowing the 'what to cut' as well as how. For many years when I first started I thought trees had to be kept fully groomed at all times - wasted years :(
 
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