Nursery ginkgo - good base, where/when to chop?

Cosmos

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Bought this ginkgo today. It sort of winked at me as I was browsing trees in the pouring rain, being small enough to fit in my car and 1/3 the price of the taller, less interesting ginkgos on offering.

My instant feeling was "good wide base, not perfect (a bit of reverse taper) but interesting ---> need to chop that". It could have potential as a taller tree, but I want to make it small and squat (in the 6-10 inch tall range), not sumo but tending towards this, a bit like BVF's beautiful one here. The base is about 2.5 inch wide, trunk proper is around 1.5.

One side, the one with the ugly-ish circling root on the right and the stub from a cut sucker, would an unconventional front. The opposite side would be more classic, and has better tapering and uniform bark.

My question: where do you guys think I should chop, and when? I'm thinking either I do it this week (buds are beginning to show some green), and sometime in June when there is fresh foliage and maximum photosynthetic activity. I'm keeping it in its nursery container this year, unless one of you strongly suggest to root prune and place it in bonsai soil soon.

For the location of the chop, I've read here that they bud back well. There are some buds I could keep, quite low on the trunk, or I could go barbaric and reduce it to something like 4 inches.

PS. Variety is Robbie's Twist, the leaves are supposed to be slimmer and a bit curled.
 

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TN_Jim

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Maybe consider air layering it around that white tag after leaves emerge and have hardened?
 

Potawatomi13

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Beginner mistake. Reverse taper looks like graft. Straight boring trunk;).
 

Cosmos

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Maybe consider air layering it around that white tag after leaves emerge and have hardened?

How easy is it to airlayer a ginkgo? Hadn't thought about that possibility.

Beginner mistake. Reverse taper looks like graft. Straight boring trunk;).

What would the graft change, if it is a grafted tree? IMO, there is no obvious abrupt change of texture in the bark or anything like that, but you might disagree. The reverse taper could also be because the base was buried too deep, as is the case with so many nursery trees.

Not a very costly mistake, in any event, and I can see myself having fun with this tree no matter what I decide to do.
 
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Cosmos

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Two new pics. One shows be the tentative front, and you can see what seems like a graft line. Second is a (sucker?) bud at the very bottom of the tree. So another option would be to chop back to the graft line.

In any event, I will late until early to mid June to make a decision about chopping or not. I want to see the vigor and growth habit of the tree first.

Fairly easy to air-layer. The bottom part will backbud.

Then (next year) you can air-layer the base to get rid of that inverse taper.

The thing is, I really do not mind the inverse taper that you guys focus on. It is after all a ginkgo, the new growth is going to be a messy, bulgy mass of suckers and apical shoots. Which I look forward to. The top part is really nothing special, although if I chop, I will root a few cuttings for sure (the cultivar is intriguing).

Salutations d'un "cousin canadien", Alain ;)
 

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Leo in N E Illinois

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'Robbie's Twist' - this is a unusual variety, branches tend to grow in weird unpredictable directions, much like a contorted tree. Leaves can be narrow. I think you have a tree that might have been grafted twice. The base, where there's the reverse taper might be a graft union, and then up just below the branches would be the second graft. The 'Robbie's Twist' would never produce a straight trunk, so either it was cleft grafted, or bud grafted to the straight trunk. People pay extra for 'Robbie's Twist', don't be cavalier about chopping it off. I'd layer off individual branches, to get 'Robbie's Twist' on its own roots. The straight trunk is probably a 'normal' ginkgo, and the roots are likely the same.
 

Cosmos

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'Robbie's Twist' - this is a unusual variety, branches tend to grow in weird unpredictable directions, much like a contorted tree. Leaves can be narrow. I think you have a tree that might have been grafted twice. The base, where there's the reverse taper might be a graft union, and then up just below the branches would be the second graft. The 'Robbie's Twist' would never produce a straight trunk, so either it was cleft grafted, or bud grafted to the straight trunk. People pay extra for 'Robbie's Twist', don't be cavalier about chopping it off. I'd layer off individual branches, to get 'Robbie's Twist' on its own roots. The straight trunk is probably a 'normal' ginkgo, and the roots are likely the same.[/QUO

The leaves are just coming out. Excited to see how the cultivar look, the branches have a weeping tendancy for sure.

Since no branch is thicker than about 1/4 inch (apart from the very top), would it be cavalier to just try to root them as cuttings? I also had the idea of trying to do root a small section of the middle portion of the tree, where three strong branches emerge, on its side, to make a tiny raft. This junction seems to have a lot of vigour, see the picture.
 

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Leo in N E Illinois

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Sure, ginkgo do root from cuttings. But they are not the easiest to root from cuttings. Success rate won't be very high. Better than 0%, less than 75%.

I would not mess with that group of branches. The upper left looks like a bud graft. The two on the right might be bud grafts, might be back buds from the understock. Let them leaf out and compare. 'Robbie's Twist' should have more fuzzy than normal twigs and buds, in addition to leaf differences, let it leaf out and evaluate later this summer. Best cuttings are taken toward autumn.

If you air layer, don't assume it will work right away, plan on 2 years hanging in the tree. Ginkgo often have a late autumn flush of root growth, so it might seem that it won't root until winter. It might also root early spring. So when you set it up for air layering, don't be impatient, give it 2 years.
 
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