Toyo Nishiki Survivor

thumblessprimate1 · Feb 22, 2018

Leo in N E Illinois said:
When grafting different varieties together, you need to match both flower shape & size, but also the leaves. It would look strange if one branch had significantly different shape or size leaves than another.

I take back what I said about toyonishiki display not with both leaves and flowers. It seems they can be, but I think ideally it would be with blossoms only. I'm curious how to make that happen.

I would to post more pictures, but I'll wait for some more blossoms and for them to get more color. Leaves are also coming out.

thumblessprimate1 · Feb 27, 2018

As best as it'll be this year. Not bad and better than last year. Will be cutting back branches soon.

0soyoung · Feb 27, 2018

The colander is beginning to develop a nice patina too.

thumblessprimate1 · Feb 27, 2018

0soyoung said:
The colander is beginning to develop a nice patina too.

Is it time I borrowed Adair's nutsack to rub it down or should I wait some more?

thumblessprimate1 · Mar 8, 2018

Branches reduced. I'm aiming for branching closer to trunk, a tighter tree and more interesting branches. Of course more flower in a few years.

quietobserver · Mar 8, 2018

thumblessprimate1 said:
Branches reduced. I'm aiming for branching closer to trunk, a tighter tree and more interesting branches. Of course more flower in a few years.
View attachment 180714

I really like this one TP.!

thumblessprimate1 · Mar 20, 2018

Good to see all my grafts took. Will do what I can to keep them alive and well. Now to help them grow strong and alive.

thumblessprimate1 · Mar 20, 2018

I want my tree to get better branches and increase in unique colors, so when I spotted this Toyonishiki I cut away the branches with blossoms that are pink and white. I hope to follow the lead of @bonhe to save these patterns with reds to graft onto my tree.

bonhe · Mar 20, 2018

thumblessprimate1 said:
I want my tree to get better branches and increase in unique colors, so when I spotted this Toyonishiki I cut away the branches with blossoms that are pink and white. I hope to follow the lead of @bonhe to save these patterns with reds to graft onto my tree.
View attachment 182410 View attachment 182411

Very nice colors ! Don't worry about the red flower because it will come in no time. Red flower is much stronger than other colors.
Bonhe

thumblessprimate1 · Apr 1, 2018

Checking in on this tree to see what needs wiring and plucking. I plucked some leaves and made sure my desired interior branches and grafted ones get light. Did some wiring, and noticed pests that needed to be killed. I tried an organic insecticidal soap this time. Not sure if it'll work. We shall see.

thumblessprimate1 · May 2, 2018

A white flower from this season's growth.

barrosinc · May 2, 2018

thumblessprimate1 said:
Branches reduced. I'm aiming for branching closer to trunk, a tighter tree and more interesting branches. Of course more flower in a few years.
View attachment 180714

Looking good

thumblessprimate1 · May 9, 2018

Looks about ready, but I'll be on safer side. I cut a wedge into donor of branch that was threaded. There are actually 2 threaded through same hole, and one of them is completely severed from donor. Still alive after 24 hours.

thumblessprimate1 · Jul 10, 2018

Made the cut today. The thread graft has been supported by its host a while, as the donor section had already died; it looked a little shriveled up.

Dead, see? Brown.

thumblessprimate1 · Aug 2, 2018

Shedding leaves so I take th he chance to look at the grafts from last fall and where I might need more grafts. Some branches need cutting back next spring and some should've been cut back shorter. I observe how branches grew from the branches I cut back, and appears most had branches growing from a bud one back from the terminal bud.

thumblessprimate1 · Aug 2, 2018

This cut, an error from the slip of my hand while trying to graft healed well. Almost completely closed from last fall. I intended to graft there, but sliced all the way. So I grafted further where you see the black tape. Black tape removed in previous post image. I like wood glue for sealant; it's worked well. Cleaner than the green stuff in tube from Japan.

thumblessprimate1 · Aug 2, 2018

I counted maybe nine secondary or tertiary branches to be added. I'll go for 10 or 11 in case some dont make it. All of the grafts from last year made it through spring. I'm not sure about one of them now as it had only tiny leaves and shed them off by now. I could scratch the bark to see if there's any green. Haven't checked it yet.

Most of this season, it's been out of direct sunlight. So hot this year. Wouldn't be able to keep up watering in thie 100*f+ weeks.

thumblessprimate1 · Aug 3, 2018

The one graft that I've been suspecting of not surviving is here with the tape removed. Looks interesting. Not show is a little of the thin bark scratched with my fingernail. I noticed some green. It has a chance. Either way it's not critical and another graft could always replace it should it not survive.

RobertB · Aug 3, 2018

Incredible thread and tree!

I have a couple questions (regarding a regular red flower quince) if I may that I would really apprecieate your feedback on:

1 - are you grafting to help with ramification / taper (seams like back buds close to the trunk are tough) or are you trying to distribute flower color or bring the flowers closer to the trunk (since they mostly bud on two yr wood)? Im a new to flowering quince (like this yr new).

2 - these look like scion and thread grafts. Is this true? Have to tried using a sucker for a thread graft or is best to take one from an existing branch? Looks like you have started some in the spring and fall.

3 - When you have cut back hard, do you cut back to lowest place on the branch that has a visible bud. Ive heard that hard pruning can result in dead branches and I've seen it some on mine but I haven't pruned nearly as hard as I would like to yet. Ive just been cutting back to twos, hoping to get some back budding closer to the trunk to eventually cut back to.

I am trying first to get some buds closer to the trunk so I can start to develop ramification. Seeing your thread makes me think I can just start a bunch of threadgrafts off the later part of this years growth. This is the second time I have removed 2 ft long shoots that have mostly pooped from recent years growth. Now with this most current cut back, there is buds popping on all the new growth branches and 1 bud popping right in the crotch of the muti trunk base.

The shrub as of a week or so ago right after cut back with areas marked that I would like to get buds below and chop back to.

An overhead shot.

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

thumblessprimate1 · Aug 3, 2018

RobertB said:
Incredible thread and tree!

I have a couple questions (regarding a regular red flower quince) if I may that I would really apprecieate your feedback on:

1 - are you grafting to help with ramification / taper (seams like back buds close to the trunk are tough) or are you trying to distribute flower color or bring the flowers closer to the trunk (since they mostly bud on two yr wood)? Im a new to flowering quince (like this yr new).

2 - these look like scion and thread grafts. Is this true? Have to tried using a sucker for a thread graft or is best to take one from an existing branch? Looks like you have started some in the spring and fall.

3 - When you have cut back hard, do you cut back to lowest place on the branch that has a visible bud. Ive heard that hard pruning can result in dead branches and I've seen it some on mine but I haven't pruned nearly as hard as I would like to yet. Ive just been cutting back to twos, hoping to get some back budding closer to the trunk to eventually cut back to.

I am trying first to get some buds closer to the trunk so I can start to develop ramification. Seeing your thread makes me think I can just start a bunch of threadgrafts off the later part of this years growth. This is the second time I have removed 2 ft long shoots that have mostly pooped from recent years growth. Now with this most current cut back, there is buds popping on all the new growth branches and 1 bud popping right in the crotch of the muti trunk base.

The shrub as of a week or so ago right after cut back with areas marked that I would like to get buds below and chop back to.
View attachment 203900

An overhead shot.
View attachment 203901

Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Robert,
1) I graft to see if I could do it, but also for ramification, taper, and flowers. Might as well try to get everything I want in one move. The thread graft, I only have one at top was to get the apex where I wanted.
2) I used scion from other quince, but same cultivar. Sometimes I use from same quince, moving a branch from one spot to another. It's possible. I generally remove suckers as they weaken the rest of the quince. I have considered using suckers for thread grafting but again it weakens tree. I just get another quince for that. It's more freedom. Easier to place where I want.
3) i cut back hard to about 2 or 3 buds usually. At times i did cut back to where branches split into two. After wiring branches, I manipulated with bends and coils to get branches compact. Later could be cut back further to where I actually want if branches pop up further back. Now that I have experience, I can graft branches then cut back to them later.

No need to rush. Take your time. Grow more quince from root cuttings or branch cuttings if you want to thread graft later. Or buy more quince. Your quince could thicken up some more. Theres a lot to learn. I've learned from the other members here.

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Toyo Nishiki Survivor

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