A couple projects for Smoke...

Dav4

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No, I don't, sorry. It's not complicated, though. Think of the callus as the base from where the roots will grow. If there are areas of callus without root that you'd prefer to have root growing from, lightly abrade with the wire brush or wound with a knife, apply rooting hormone and replant.
 

JoeR

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No, I don't, sorry. It's not complicated, though. Think of the callus as the base from where the roots will grow. If there are areas of callus without root that you'd prefer to have root growing from, lightly abrade with the wire brush or wound with a knife, apply rooting hormone and replant.
Okay thanks, I can definitel so handle that.
 

JoeR

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These are all the result of reading @Smoke ’s posts about elm root cuttings, and I’d say they’ve been a lot of fun so I definitely have him to thank for that. They grow ridiculously fast and combined with their diminutive size makes them good practice trees.

They all got a repot, and I’m not trying to be an akadama hater but I’m disappointed with the condition of their roots in pure akadama. To correct this they were repoted in a pumice-heavy soil, so we’ll see what happens.
 

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JoeR

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The one in the red pot is the original tree believe it or not. I can’t keep it in the ground any more so I threw it in that pot. It’s exploding to say the least.

Believe it or not, I debated throwing all but the brown potted one into a forest planting.
 

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JoeR

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And ironically I was just saying how I’ve not experienced die back with the species.. well I did now. Oh well, there’s a bud right at the base so nbd.
 

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JoeR

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You know looking back I wonder if this tree has made any progress in the time I’ve owned it. After reading the hardening thread I believe the answer is no- it has not progressed. So here it is today, after an overdue cutback. Many problems are outlined with the red brackets- the first internode length is IMO excessively long on many branches for one thing. And the right trunk just keep getting further and further from the other. The apex broke last year and now I must heal the large wound left behind and somehow create a new one at the same time. What to do what to do.
 

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Thanks for all the photos. Lately, I have been thinking a lot about what "Strive for a compact tree" means. Internodes are on my radar, so stuff like this is really helpful. Thanks. Nice tree.
 

JoeR

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Thanks for all the photos. Lately, I have been thinking a lot about what "Strive for a compact tree" means. Internodes are on my radar, so stuff like this is really helpful. Thanks. Nice tree.
My pleasure man. I was hoping a pro would step in and give some insight on how they deal with excessively long internodes. I’ve been thinking too about how I can really accelerate my trees progress now that I have much more time on my hands.
 

JoeR

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Another overdue cutback. Wondering if I should cut at the red line. I can’t decide if I want to make this one a flat-top Bonsai or go with a more traditional styling. Front probably isn’t final either. The roots need fixed again next spring.
 

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JoeR

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This one wasn’t leaning quite this much when I first potted it, but I can’t say I don’t like how it is now too. I’m going to wire and train that branch down and see how it goes.
 

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Cadillactaste

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Another overdue cutback. Wondering if I should cut at the red line. I can’t decide if I want to make this one a flat-top Bonsai or go with a more traditional styling. Front probably isn’t final either. The roots need fixed again next spring.
I like the direction of cutting at the red line. You stop your eye from a continual straight line. And take away from the chance of reverse taper with three branches coming from one point.
 

JoeR

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This is one where I feel like neglect has really shown itself. Hoping for some buds for new branches, it’s lacking in a few areas. Apex is trash as of current. Still a cool tree though, I quite like it.
 

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JoeR

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I like the direction of cutting at the red line. You stop your eye from a continual straight line. And take away from the chance of reverse taper with three branches coming from one point.
I completely agree. Funny how I didn’t think that at all while I was working on it, but it’s clear in pictures it needs to be done.
 

Cadillactaste

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I completely agree. Funny how I didn’t think that at all while I was working on it, but it’s clear in pictures it needs to be done.
Pictures offer us time for thought. It's amazing what one can notice in a photo that hours of staring at their tree they over look. Good direction for sure.
 

JoeR

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Hmm. Let this branch run and thicken to be more proportional, or cut it? As it is now, I don’t know if it adds anything to the overall design. But I think if I cut it, the tree becomes almost boring
 

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JoeR

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@MACH5 , what editing app/software do you use for making virts? Yours are always nicely done, and I can definitely use an upgrade as you can see.
 

Cadillactaste

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Hmm. Let this branch run and thicken to be more proportional, or cut it? As it is now, I don’t know if it adds anything to the overall design. But I think if I cut it, the tree becomes almost boring
Joe...have you looked at Google search? Just for styles that appeal to you? I think both with the branch or without could work. Fall foliage would be more with the branch. Canopy...what do you envision? I have been going round and round with my Chinese quince. On what direction to develop the lower right branch. I think I finally found inspiration on how to take it. So...I can get the wire on and work toward a goal.
 
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deal with excessively long internodes.

No pro here, but trees grow in the first weeks on last years reserves which are mainly made by storing away autumn-made excess sugars. The bigger the reserve the more growth right away, so obviously if reserves are small new growth is little = tiny internodes. So little fertilizing in fall should mean tight first internodes.

P.s. still composing a reply, sorry ?
 
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