You do a regiment of Epsom every other week...interesting, I am trying to do some extended research on benefits of Epsom salts. That it helps toughen up the leaves...harden off you mean?I've had some dieback on smaller branching, but extremely strong push of new foliage on extension growth from last summer. I haven't messed with the roots at all despite the deteriorating collection pot. I am being pretty cautious in how I'm going at it. With this past winter's extremely unpredictable weather pattern, I've been even more cautious--just let it grow.
The new growth this spring was encouraging, however, some of the initial leaves had the same grey out as the leaves that were on it last summer--I suspect a fungal issue. However, since that initial problem, the tree put on dense growth
There seem to be two growth periods, as far as I can see. Early spring and mid-summer, which would make sense in timing--springtime rain, and the summer monsoon season in its native habitat. Stronger, but more localized, growth in the summer period.
As it did last June/July, the tree is pushing new growth on the two foot long extension shoots it grew out last summer. That new growth on the stronger shoots is moving at a half inch per day at this point. I expect them to extend as far as the shoots did last year.
I have been fertilizing with low phosphorous ferts at full strength all summer once a week. It's not a problem as the pumice drains pretty freely.
Insects don't like this tree --at all. Have had only a couple try to chew leaves, but they moved on since the leaves are thick and tough. Along with the fert, I'm also supplementing with Epsom salts every other week--a half teaspoon to a gallon. That helps toughen up the leaves. I do that for all my trees. Works OK.
Obviously, 'll have to post a photo soon.
This species is interesting. Dropping finer branches seems to be in its DNA, given the extensive deadwood on all of these I've seen. That wouldn't be surprising, as its native habitat would force that kind of thing, same as desert juniper species with their deadwood. Surprisingly, or maybe not, the tree seems to like water. I was trying to let the soil dry down, but wound up killing some new growth in early spring. I water every day, sometimes twice in this ungodly heat. Also covering the pot with a white cloth if the temps are forecast to top 90.
My bonsai nursery owning friends said that is what they do for their trees. They have a big fertilizer injection system that is incorporated into their watering system at the nursery. The Epsom salt helps with toughening up the leaves a bit. Makes them less edible to bugs.You do a regiment of Epsom every other week...interesting, I am trying to do some extended research on benefits of Epsom salts. That it helps toughen up the leaves...harden off you mean?
Very interesting...and a good tidbit. Thanks for explaining!My bonsai nursery owning friends said that is what they do for their trees. They have a big fertilizer injection system that is incorporated into their watering system at the nursery. The Epsom salt helps with toughening up the leaves a bit. Makes them less edible to bugs.
Wonderful tree Sergio! I know it is a long way down the road, but have you given any thought to the eventual pot? Are you thinking glazed since it is deciduous even though the deadwood is so rugged. Perhaps a more architectural piece?
Thanks Lars! Yes, I have already spoken to Roy about possibly making a custom made pot for it. I can see this tree with an unglazed one but glazed may work nicely if it is somehow highly distressed. Perhaps one side could be busted open to accommodate an existing piece of dead root at the back.
I would be careful with that kind of pot for an oak. Despite being a desert species, gray oak from what I've seen likes water. A container that has a "shallow end" could be a health issue. I've found over the years that my live oak does much better in a deeper container.Harry Harrington has this nice example of an unusual pot shape to accommodate an interesting root on a yew.
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I would be careful with that kind of pot for an oak. Despite being a desert species, gray oak from what I've seen likes water. A container that has a "shallow end" could be a health issue. I've found over the years that my live oak does much better in a deeper container.
I have a grey oak like this one--Quercus Gresia is native to West Texas, New Mexico and Arizona. Although those locations are mostly desert, this species grows near water, or where water is most abundant in the desert.What kind of live oak? My understanding is that some types of live oaks grow in pretty wet climates (coastal live oaks?).
I have a grey oak like this one--Quercus Gresia is native to West Texas, New Mexico and Arizona. Although those locations are mostly desert, this species grows near water, or where water is most abundant in the desert.
I've had a bonsai made from a subspecies of the southern (coastal) live oak collected in Texas for over 20 years. Quercus fusiformis is a subspecies the main species of southern live oak that grows all over the Southern U.S. in rather moist conditions. The fusiformis subspecies is colder hardy and prefers more well drained soil than the main species. I keep my tree in a deeper pot as it uses a lot of water, especially in the summer. I had it in a shallower pot when I got it a long time ago. It didn't grow as well in that container.
Wow!! That's looking good.
Whats the plan in cutting the large root to get in a pot like that??
I was going to say that. Slow and steady.Max I think it will take several years to prepare the roots to go and fit into such a container. But I need to procedd with care specially with these very old specimens.
Max I think it will take several years to prepare the roots to go and fit into such a container. But I need to procedd with care specially with these very old specimens.